Car Pulls Right ... Any Ideas?
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Streamwood, IL.
Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1L
Car Pulls Right ... Any Ideas?
I had the struts replaced on my 90 Camaro RS. After they were in, I had the front end alligned. They adjusted the passenger side strut positioner, so the allignment screws are all the way to the outside of the slot. They never touched the tie rods, and the camber reading is still +.6 degrees. The car still pulls right, and I was advised that it was a tire issue or spring sagging issue, or both. Any ideas? Should they have made the whole correction up top?
LaVolpeBxr
LaVolpeBxr
Last edited by LaVolpeBxr; Sep 11, 2005 at 09:40 PM.
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From: Costal Alabama
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Re: Car Pulls Right ... Any Ideas?
Originally posted by LaVolpeBxr
They never touched the tie rods
They never touched the tie rods
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,136
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From: Costal Alabama
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Well if everything else is correct on your front alignment it may be that your rear is out of alignment or bent. If it is out of alignment then adjustable control arms would help if it's not bent. I prefer a little toe in. Some toe in will also help keep the car going straight. I used .06 total toe in when I had my car aligned.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Streamwood, IL.
Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1L
Car Pulls Right
Rear stats are as follows:
Cross camber ... -1.5 degrees
Total Toe .... .03in.
Thrust Angle ... -.11 degrees
How are those numbers?
LaVolpeBxr
Cross camber ... -1.5 degrees
Total Toe .... .03in.
Thrust Angle ... -.11 degrees
How are those numbers?
LaVolpeBxr
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From: Manchester: UK
Car: Was 3rd Gen now MustangGT
Engine: 302
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3:73:1
Most garages use Laser Tracking round here. The front and rear wheels are aligned together, in theory minor mis-alignment is cured.
If you were smacked in the back by a truck,this might not work.
Pulling can be caused by faulty tyres, swap em over see if the pull goes the other way.
Could be a disc caliper grabbing, or a bent lower arm, or steering gear, or at the worst the chassis.
Theres a fair old minefield of causes.
If you were smacked in the back by a truck,this might not work.
Pulling can be caused by faulty tyres, swap em over see if the pull goes the other way.
Could be a disc caliper grabbing, or a bent lower arm, or steering gear, or at the worst the chassis.
Theres a fair old minefield of causes.
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From: state of confusion
Car: '08 Mustang GT
Engine: 4.6L
Transmission: º º 0 . . . |-|-|
Axle/Gears: 8.8", 3.55
Re: Car Pulls Right
Originally posted by LaVolpeBxr
Rear stats are as follows:
Cross camber ... -1.5 degrees
Rear stats are as follows:
Cross camber ... -1.5 degrees
Over time, rough road travel, and occasional overloading, a stick axle tends to develop a little negative camber in each rear wheel, but not much cross. Something may be bent (rear wheel?) or perhaps the heads were not correctly installed and comp'ed.
You do realize that you can check those alignment numbers fairly closely with surprisingly simple measuring equipment . . .
Norm
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Streamwood, IL.
Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1L
Re: Car Pulls Right
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Norm Peterson
That's a bit excessive, especially for a stick axle - that much difference in camber from one side to the other is probably visible without instrumentation if you know what to look for.
What are the individual rear cambers (and individual rear toes)?
They are as follows:
Rear Left Camber .. -1.0 degrees
Rear Left Toe ... -.04 degrees
Rear Right Camber ... +.5 degrees
Rear Right Toe ... +.07 Degrees
Over time, rough road travel, and occasional overloading, a stick axle tends to develop a little negative camber in each rear wheel, but not much cross. Something may be bent (rear wheel?) or perhaps the heads were not correctly installed and comp'ed.
You do realize that you can check those alignment numbers fairly closely with surprisingly simple measuring equipment . . .
No, I had no idea. Please tell me how and I will do so.
LaVolpeBxr
That's a bit excessive, especially for a stick axle - that much difference in camber from one side to the other is probably visible without instrumentation if you know what to look for.
What are the individual rear cambers (and individual rear toes)?
They are as follows:
Rear Left Camber .. -1.0 degrees
Rear Left Toe ... -.04 degrees
Rear Right Camber ... +.5 degrees
Rear Right Toe ... +.07 Degrees
Over time, rough road travel, and occasional overloading, a stick axle tends to develop a little negative camber in each rear wheel, but not much cross. Something may be bent (rear wheel?) or perhaps the heads were not correctly installed and comp'ed.
You do realize that you can check those alignment numbers fairly closely with surprisingly simple measuring equipment . . .
No, I had no idea. Please tell me how and I will do so.
LaVolpeBxr
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 438
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From: state of confusion
Car: '08 Mustang GT
Engine: 4.6L
Transmission: º º 0 . . . |-|-|
Axle/Gears: 8.8", 3.55
Re: Re: Car Pulls Right
Originally posted by LaVolpeBxr
Rear Left Camber .. -1.0 degrees
Rear Left Toe ... -.04 degrees
Rear Right Camber ... +.5 degrees
Rear Right Toe ... +.07 Degrees
Rear Left Camber .. -1.0 degrees
Rear Left Toe ... -.04 degrees
Rear Right Camber ... +.5 degrees
Rear Right Toe ... +.07 Degrees
I suppose that different tire sizes on a rear axle that had a slight amount of negative camber could also produce those readings, but the shop should have refused to do the work and explained why in that case.
No, I had no idea. Please tell me how and I will do so.
LaVolpeBxr
LaVolpeBxr
The most important word is PATIENCE.
Find a level (or at least flat) surface, inflate your tires to where you’ll be running them, and load the car approximately as it will be driven. If it isn’t perfectly level, you can either shim the low wheel spots up to level or correct your measured angles once you know how far out it is. And at least simulate the driver’s weight with something like barbell plates.
. . . all I needed was a carpenter's 12" combination square with a bubble level in the handle, a small scale that measured in 0.01" increments (it was just something I had; 1/32" graduation is probably sufficient for most work). Plus . . . a calculator that has trig functions.
Camber is measured by placing one end of the C-square against the wheel rim, moving the other end until there's "zero bubble" in the level, and measuring the gap at the other end. Since the wheel is somewhat larger than the 12” C-square is long, you'll be a few inches ahead of or behind the axle centerline. I normally took measurements at both locations as a check on my work. Be sure that the square is perpendicular to the pavement as seen in side view. Then a little math and use of either the arcsin or the arctan function (the difference is negligible at the magnitude of the angles you'll be working with) will give you the camber angle. Or, since it's close enough to 0.15* per 1/32" gap over the 12" length of the square's ruler, you can use that conversion for most work.
Find a level (or at least flat) surface, inflate your tires to where you’ll be running them, and load the car approximately as it will be driven. If it isn’t perfectly level, you can either shim the low wheel spots up to level or correct your measured angles once you know how far out it is. And at least simulate the driver’s weight with something like barbell plates.
. . . all I needed was a carpenter's 12" combination square with a bubble level in the handle, a small scale that measured in 0.01" increments (it was just something I had; 1/32" graduation is probably sufficient for most work). Plus . . . a calculator that has trig functions.
Camber is measured by placing one end of the C-square against the wheel rim, moving the other end until there's "zero bubble" in the level, and measuring the gap at the other end. Since the wheel is somewhat larger than the 12” C-square is long, you'll be a few inches ahead of or behind the axle centerline. I normally took measurements at both locations as a check on my work. Be sure that the square is perpendicular to the pavement as seen in side view. Then a little math and use of either the arcsin or the arctan function (the difference is negligible at the magnitude of the angles you'll be working with) will give you the camber angle. Or, since it's close enough to 0.15* per 1/32" gap over the 12" length of the square's ruler, you can use that conversion for most work.
Norm
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From: Detroit, MI, USA
Car: '82 Trans Am
Engine: Blown 540 BBC
Transmission: TH475
Axle/Gears: Dana 60, 4.10 w/spool
Anything in the rear alignment won't cause your car to pull, and neither will your front toe setting.
Like R1UK said, try swapping the front tires from side to side. If the car pulls the other way, you have a bad tire.
Originally posted by R1UK
Pulling can be caused by faulty tyres, swap em over see if the pull goes the other way.
Pulling can be caused by faulty tyres, swap em over see if the pull goes the other way.
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