after going finally getting the correct parts for my front end from PSC ( see link below) i put started putting them together.
when i put the adj. sleeves on it took a LOT of torque to get them tight like the pic in the haynes manual. should it take a 1/2 drive socket to tighten them up? i'm just wondering if the idiots sent me the wrong sleeves also.

i saw some edelbrock sleeves i could order through advance auto parts.

does anyone know if the threads on the edelbrock sleeves would work with the PSC tie rods?

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=324883

you should be able to use those tie rods

i used standard tie rods and sleeves etc.

i tightened them till i couldn't move the sleeve around

i went ahead and ordered the edelbrock tie rods and they do fit the mcquay-norris tie rods. the are heavy duty and much easier to deal with.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...ype=72&ptset=A

The Edelbrock tie rods SUCK, cancle the order if you can and order the Spohn's

I ordered the Edelbrocks from work, got one set and the threads were all messed up in both of them, got another set in, and they were almost just as bad but i was able to clean them up with a tap. and when i called edelbrock for some help with the situation, they were less than stellar.

Get them from coleman racing. MUCH cheaper than either of the two listed above.

I have hodgkiss tierod adjuster slevees they are very nice and strong.

What size sleeves are you buying from coleman racing?

www.colemanracing.com

2- Coleman Racing Steel Jam Nuts (Right) #941-R
2- Coleman Racing Steel Jam Nuts (Left) #941-L
2- Coleman Racing Tie-Rod Sleeves #RP-129-4

Basically, you need 4" tie rod sleeves.

4" or 5" sleve should work, for most of us. I actualy wish I had gone with 5" on mine now, as I could easily take .5" more thread engagement on each side. Although 2 years later, I have had not a single issue with the 4" ones.

I’ve always wondered about this… in my mind if I went to aluminum I would tend to err on the side of more engagement then less, and either way I’d be surprised if they ended up even as light as the stockers…

Old thread but super informative! I cannot believe some companies like hotchkis and spohn are charging 40-60 for the same thing for a less, save for a little powdercoating... I am very excited to pick up some of these coleman sleeves. Has anyone used them with the McQuak-Norris ends? Thanks

However,
I had no trouble instaling my Edelbrock's and have had no issues with them since!

I'm not sure if the colman's are listed on E-bay, but there is (if memory serves me..) a 'regular' ebay vendor who sell a decent set for (I think) $22.00usd - any one remember or can verify for me (I will look into ebay to 2x check) His listing is not recurring. When I was after a pair, he had a buy it now price, and then the listing was gone, and sure enough, after I had the Edelbrock's in hand, the vendor's ebay listing was back - my luck
-Andrew

What am I missing here? Those Colemans appear to be stock-type tubular steel, compared to the aluminum Edelbrocks. Whether or not the aluminum parts are superior is debatable, but I can certainly see why they cost more.

Coleman also has aluminum tie rod tubes. I purchased the Edelbrocks from Jeg's a long time ago and they were fine and went on fine. I paid 35 for them and coleman wanted 15 for the pair. Plus coleman doesn't charge shipping. It is built into the price.

Stock is not tubular steel, these are not cut like the stock one, they are a solid tube that is threaded, and uses jam nuts, instead of clamps.

Huh, interesting that this comes up again now (I’ve got a pair of sleeves that are rusted in place that I’m going to cut off soon and replace with something).

Dean, you say 4” works but 5” would be better, while people seem to be happy with the edlebrock ones. FWIW, Edelbrock has a short and long 5/8” sleeve, the short is 3-3/8” long, the long is 4-7/8”, and lists the short part number as the one for f-bodies.

I could definitely see how a longer sleeve would be stiffer, but has anyone tried a 5” one to see if it works or hits somewhere?

I haven't tried 5", I have the 4" on mine. I have at least 1/2" of thread left on each side, so there would be plenty of room for the 5".

Here is a picture.

I think i might go with the 4 inch ones, there half the price of the 5 inch. As long as nobodys having problems with the 4 inch. How bout the 4.5 inch? Also, the jam nuts, do you need 2 rights and 2 lefts?

The more I think about it the more I’m surprised that the edelbrock part is .625-1.625 shorter then what appears to work, especially if edelbrock makes another PN that is right in the middle of that range. It’s unusual for a company to spend money making more then one product if one would cover the whole range sufficiently. I wonder what the reason is?

Just wanted to add to this thread. 5" sleeves were too long on my car simply for the fact that the Coleman sleeves aren't threaded deep enough. If you have a LH/RH tap go ahead, but stock sleeves are 4.5" and Coleman carries 4.5" steel sleeves.

I have issues with my Edelcrap's. I can't insert the tie-rod ends far enough to get a good alignment. I've decided to let the alignment shop deal with it.

do these sleeves offer more steering angle? What is so special about these. If they don't offer more angle can someone please tell me what sort of modification I need to increase the steering angle on a 92 z28.

Most f-bodies purposfully have their steering angle limited by steering box stops to prevent from rubbing the inner fenders too much with wide tires.

Is there a way to modify the steering stops to get more angle. I'm not worried about rubbing I'll flair the fenders and bang out the wells if I have to.

Don’t take this the wrong way, but:
- You’re cluttering someone’s thread with totally unrelated questions
- You clearly have not taken any kind of reasonable look at the front end geometry of these cars and/or aren’t anywhere near familiar enough with suspension geometry to be making those kinds of changes to these cars, whether you’re just unhappy with turn radius or have some notion of drifting one of these things…

Maybe if you start another thread and get the attention of some of us there, we can have a discussion about unibody/frame issues vs suspension geometry, scrub radius, steering box stops… FWIW, you’re not going to get significantly more steering angle out of these cars without going with much smaller tires or making major changes to the front end of these cars. I don’t know if that’s an issue WRT to something like drifting, but we have one or 2 members that might be able to comment on that.

As far as the sleeves, they’re just nicer, maybe slightly stiffer replacements for the stock ones, you’d be hard pressed to show/prove any real functional difference from the stock ones.

Oh no offense taken. I'm sorry for going off topic. Thanks for answering my question about the sleeves.

Easier to adjust? I would think they wouldn't rust as easily, making adjustments later on slightly easier. *shrug* that's why I went with them.