suspension mods, need help
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 741
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: 5.7L 355 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4 with TCI rebuild kit and valve body mods
suspension mods, need help
whats up guys, i want to get a bunch of things done to my car before the winter starts to kick in. these things include the following:
subframe connectors
rear end
rear shocks
basically, i want subframe connectors for obvious reasons, i have an 89 firebird formula and its a unibody. i heard that welded on are better than bolted b/c they are more fail safe.
im pretty sure i need to switch my rear end b/c my car has over 253k on it and when i brake, i hear a humming comming from the rear of the car and its about as loud as my fuel pump, which is a venom pump (pretty loud) i have the rear from a 88' formula with 160k on it sitting in my garage.
im also pretty sure i need rear shocks b/c i went into a turn recently pretty hard, and i heard a loud rubbing noise comming from the back left of my car like the tire rubbed the wheel well into the hard right turn. also, my rear right shock looks like the oil has gotten all over it. how do you know when you need new shocks anyway?
sorry this is getting really long, but i need to know basically that i am doing the right things to my car before i do them, and if they are in fact NECESSARY. thanks again guys!
subframe connectors
rear end
rear shocks
basically, i want subframe connectors for obvious reasons, i have an 89 firebird formula and its a unibody. i heard that welded on are better than bolted b/c they are more fail safe.
im pretty sure i need to switch my rear end b/c my car has over 253k on it and when i brake, i hear a humming comming from the rear of the car and its about as loud as my fuel pump, which is a venom pump (pretty loud) i have the rear from a 88' formula with 160k on it sitting in my garage.
im also pretty sure i need rear shocks b/c i went into a turn recently pretty hard, and i heard a loud rubbing noise comming from the back left of my car like the tire rubbed the wheel well into the hard right turn. also, my rear right shock looks like the oil has gotten all over it. how do you know when you need new shocks anyway?
sorry this is getting really long, but i need to know basically that i am doing the right things to my car before i do them, and if they are in fact NECESSARY. thanks again guys!
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
What do you use your car for? Daily driver, autox, drag, etc??
Assuming its daily driver. Get new springs as well as new shocks. You can get oem replacement springs at many places. Shocks is really your flavor unless you want to go all out.
Subframes, yes, weldin is better. Hopefully your car has never been in a major accident to have caused alot of damage already.
Rear axle is over my head, someone else will have to answer.
Assuming its daily driver. Get new springs as well as new shocks. You can get oem replacement springs at many places. Shocks is really your flavor unless you want to go all out.
Subframes, yes, weldin is better. Hopefully your car has never been in a major accident to have caused alot of damage already.
Rear axle is over my head, someone else will have to answer.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 741
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: 5.7L 355 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4 with TCI rebuild kit and valve body mods
no my car actually hasnt been in one accident, except for the stupid fender bender i got into with it.... the body is COMPLETELY straight lol to my surprise, i've looked at the car from top to bottom, and i still cant believe its shape. anyway, i was looking at the shocks on summit, but you say i should get springs too? i guess i should then, but just the rear, i think the front is fine.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 741
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: 5.7L 355 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4 with TCI rebuild kit and valve body mods
i use it as a daily driver. and also how can you really tell that you need suspension anyway? the car still sits the way it should. it just squeaks a lot
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: Chino California
Car: 1988 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
While you're at it. Replace the bushings in the front too. Having the front end rebuilt helps a lot.
If your going to replace the shocks in the back....I'd also replace the springs too. I used Tokico adjustable shocks on all four corners of car. Springs? Choose which ever company you can afford. Subframe connectors help a great deal too. I used Hotchkiss, they bolt on in the back and weld on in the front. You might have some exhaust issues depending on which subframe connectors you go with.
If your going to replace the shocks in the back....I'd also replace the springs too. I used Tokico adjustable shocks on all four corners of car. Springs? Choose which ever company you can afford. Subframe connectors help a great deal too. I used Hotchkiss, they bolt on in the back and weld on in the front. You might have some exhaust issues depending on which subframe connectors you go with.
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iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,819
Likes: 3
From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
Unless you have a radical exhaust, sphons fit fine, and are weld in.
Your car is about 20 years old, the springs are worn. Just putting shocks on, they will blow back out quickly and possibly still bottom out. I would replace all 4 springs and shocks at the same time. The oem springs are fairly cheap I belive, like 20-30 each. Then some monroe or gabrial shocks should be fine for a daily driver(just naming some off, dont need anything super fancy for daily driving).
How do you tell you need to do suspension work? It doesnt function like a new car, or like it should. But I am quite sure after 15-20 years, most of the parts need some sort of attention, if not some replaced.
Id start off with:
1.new swaybar bushings/endlinks
2.new springs/shocks
3.upper strut mounts
4.new control arm bushings(front and rear), tq arm bushing with trans mount also
5.steering linkage.
1. is fairly cheap. But all the rest are a few hundred a hit.
Your car is about 20 years old, the springs are worn. Just putting shocks on, they will blow back out quickly and possibly still bottom out. I would replace all 4 springs and shocks at the same time. The oem springs are fairly cheap I belive, like 20-30 each. Then some monroe or gabrial shocks should be fine for a daily driver(just naming some off, dont need anything super fancy for daily driving).
How do you tell you need to do suspension work? It doesnt function like a new car, or like it should. But I am quite sure after 15-20 years, most of the parts need some sort of attention, if not some replaced.
Id start off with:
1.new swaybar bushings/endlinks
2.new springs/shocks
3.upper strut mounts
4.new control arm bushings(front and rear), tq arm bushing with trans mount also
5.steering linkage.
1. is fairly cheap. But all the rest are a few hundred a hit.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 741
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: 5.7L 355 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4 with TCI rebuild kit and valve body mods
thanks a lot for the suggestions. i think now im gonna go with shocks AND springs in the rear. i dont really think i have to touch the front YET. considering its pretty solid. it does pull to the right side a little though. im going to be doing the rear end soon, so i wanted to know what went into changing the springs/shocks. i think im gonna do both at the same time, but do you think it would be bad just to do the rear suspension right now and not the front?
I've never built a readend or anything but I believe the sign of a potential problem is a "whine" while driving. If you are hearing noises only when you brake, chances are the rear brakes are what need to be checked out, not the rearend itself. But you never know so I would say check them both out. I agree with Dale that you dont need expensive parts for a daily driver, OE replacement parts will be fine. I would say attack the suspension one side at a time. Since there might be a potential problem with the rearend (or rear brakes) I would say to the rear first. The rear suspension is very very easy, just just need to support the frame on jackstands and everything is a few bolts away. Springs slide in, rear shocks have 2 bolts each, lower control arms and panhard bar also have 2 bolts each. I would recommend OE replacement springs and rear shocks if you are still running on OEM parts (or if you dont know how old they are). I would also recommend you replace the bushings in the rear, makes a difference versus worn mushy bushings. This will make even more sense if you need to drop the rearend out, lower control arms will be right there. And along with OE replacement bushings for the lower control arms, I would do the panhard bar and the swaybar end links. A complete rear suspension rebuild should be do-able for under $200 if you DIY, this would be new springs, new shocks, and all new bushings on the lower control arms, panhard bar, and swaybar endlinks. Then once you've completed the rear start saving up to do the front. I would attack the front with the same mindset, springs, struts, and bushings (which also includes parts from the steering linkage and the strut mounts as Dale said)
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
thing with replacing just the rear springs, is that the back will be stiff and possibly higher. Then the front is sagging and bouncing. Will handle a little odd.
You can always try it, see how it looks and handles for you. If its not to your flavor, quickly gather the stuff for the front.
You can always try it, see how it looks and handles for you. If its not to your flavor, quickly gather the stuff for the front.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 741
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: 5.7L 355 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4 with TCI rebuild kit and valve body mods
i just wanna thank you guys for your replies.
do you guys know any places that sell rebuild kits for suspension for our cars in the rear and the front???? i'd be looking to get complete rebuilds liek your saying, but i dont know where to go!
thanks
do you guys know any places that sell rebuild kits for suspension for our cars in the rear and the front???? i'd be looking to get complete rebuilds liek your saying, but i dont know where to go!
thanks I use local Parts Stores and the Internet. If I need performance parts I'm gonna look for them on the Internet first, local speed shop second. If I need stock replacement parts and stuff like that I goto the local auto parts chains, Checkers or Napa. Good idea to price stuff out from a bunch of different places before buying.
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