I just got my hands on the edelbrock TBI stb for my '91Z that is now carbed, and was wondering if anyone could chime in regarding the instalation. I have seen some old posts with the stb instaled but was wondering if there is any measuring required with the placement of the strut tower bracket mounts to correctly instal the stb, or do I just try and line up the stb so that it clears everyting, and have the strut brackets lie flush on the strut towers? Do, or can, or should the brackets sit entirely on the strut towers, or can they overhang a bit (as long as they sit flush)? etc ect...
I bought the stb used so I don't have any instructions.
Any info, including pics would be a tremendous help.
-Andrew.

 

Peice it together and rest it into place. Make sure that the STB flange that rests on the cowl has enough meat to drill a hole. The strut mount locations aren't as critical. I just held mine in place, marked the six hardware locations with a marker and then drilled.

 

Thanks for the insight,
In your pic, the stb brackets seem to sit flush with no overhang on the strut towers. After fiddling with my stb, the driver's side bracket seems to overhang about 1/8 of an inch. Is this o.k? the brackets do sit flush on the towers though. The brackets hit the mcpherson bracket which is bolted down so I I don't have the space on the towers for the brackets to sit flush with no overhang

TIA
-ANdrew

 

You are really taxing my memory here . It has been five years since I installed that STB and I am having trouble remembering. If I recal I do not think every bit of the brackets touched the strut mount surface. I think there is a little overhang even though it is not obvious in the picture (kinda blury). You may want to flip around the STB mounts. I think you can put them on either way and one way makes they sit more flush. I think I still have the instructions at home (archives of car receipts and such) and I can see what they say.

 

Awesome!
Thanks. If you find anythign out, that would be appreciated.
By the way, after reading a bunch of old post, I am a bit confused about this issue; if i am going to be instaling sub frame connectors on the car and a 6-pont roll bar does it matter what order i do the instalations?
Frame connectors first, then all the other items likr the strut tower brace and or the roll bar? I am aware that frame connectors should be welded in first, and then a roll bar/cage, but what about the s.t.b?
Again, thanks.
-Andrew

 

You are right that SFC should be the first thing you do. After that it is up to you. If this is a street car I would go with the SFC and then the STB. Your car will feel incredibly stable and display confidence when you push it. In my opinion, those two suspension mods alone are worth every penny. You may want to look into the steering brace (aka wonder bar) for additional support.

This is all assuming your shocks, struts and springs are not worn out. If they are, adding upgraded suspension components will only expose worn out parts to a greater level.

 

I think you should complete the lower chassis before you strengthen the top of the chassis (stb/ roll cage). I am doing my chassis in this order (note I am doing it all at once though)

1.) weld in SFC's
2.) install Kenny Brown lower chassis brace
3.) install TDS wonder bar (steering brace)
4.) install Edelbrock STB for TBI
5.) intall 6-8 point roll cage

I believe you should do the bottom of the chassis first so its all perfectly straight before you do the top. This way you know the top will be installed properly (as everyhing should be in line when you have previously done the bottom) and you wont have any problems with geometry.

If you were to do the STB or roll cage first there is a good chance that when you go to do the bottom you will find things dont fit properly. You will then have to readjust the STB/ roll cage mounting locations. (time confuming and causing you a big headache)

get the bigger part of the chassis done first (bottom) and then the top of the chassis will be in alignment and you probably will have no problems with alignment on the top as it is the smaller part of the chassis.

Just my opinion though. Makes sense to me. Does everyone else think this is the right way to go also?

please comment

 

picture if you havent seen it before.

 

I was planning on the s.f.c and roll bar first. My car has the wonderbar already, so I don't need to worry about that. Chassis brace - Do you think this is required if you have a good sub-frame connector? In addition, If you are installing a cage or roll bar, do you think you still require the additional structural brace? All these components increase weight. I am wonderng if an aftermarket tranny cross member (like Sphone's) would be sufficient, and thus you could owverlook the lower chassis brace? Is there such a thing as overkill?
-Andrew

 

personally I would leave the roll cage last for installation on my list. Subframe connectors would be first one my list for the obvious. So my unibody can have a full frame. The subframe connectors by far provide the most structual regidity to the vehicle. The vehicle will not move as one unit.

Subframe connectors will do wonders but remember there are other places of our 3rd gens that are unsound and where the sfcs are of not much help. Subframe connectors connect the subframes together (front and rear) that is all. They do not provide much stuctual regidity for instance in the front end of the car especially to:

1.) the steering area (unless u have a stock iroc). A wonder bar is required to provide excellent and responsive steering.

2.) top of the front end (motor compartment). A 3 point strut tower brace is required to provide stuctural sound and regidity. (producing no movement in top of front end therefore improving cornering greatly also helping in launch of vehicle)

3.) the area underneath the vehicle right in front of the oil pan. Subframe connectors do not brace this area. KB lower chassis is required to aquire no movement in this area at any times.

Our cars come stock with a crossmember. That area has been covered by stock components. If youd like to replace a crossmember with an aftermarket one you can. It is up to descretion whether one really needs one. An aftermarket one will obviously be better in some kind of way and look flashier but it will not help the areas mentoned in #1,#2 and #3.

A roll cage would be the area where you would gain the most weight of any of the chassis braces. Yes I want one and will have one. But I do not think it is the most important component unless of course you are 1/4 mileing it or NASCAR ect. It will provide more ragidity. And it will look awsome (man i want one bad).I would leave it to last unless i was planning on using for purposes mentioned above. I look at it like this: what car comes of the line from GM with a 6-8 point roll cage. Not too many if any at all. How many come out with full frames and chassis braces. Most.

I would worry about the rest of the car before a roll cage and aftrermarket crossmember. If your car is an iroc you could also resist temptation in buying an aftermarket wonderbar as you should have one if it is stock.

Remember if you are planning a vehicle with alot of torque all these components will be needed to prevent damage and twisting to your vehicle. If you are planning serious torque a roll cage would be benefitial.

Weight is not as important as preventing damage. Therefore I think no of these mods are overkill. The benifits of having them outhweigh the disadvantage of weight.

Important to note too that everyone is not the same and has preferences on what they are going to do first and what they think is the most important.

My opinion is all the other braces, including sfcs are more important than a roll cage unless you are racing it at a track ect. I want one and it will provide benefits/ more regidity. I am wanting one also for how cool it would be to have one.

Hope this has helped a bit.

None of these mods can be considered overkill other than the roll cage.

 

Lot's of truth to what you have written irocstang,
I was only going to add to what you wrote, that some later Z28 (not just the iroc's) have the factory steering brace as well.....
-Andrew

 

Where does the lower chassis brace bolt up?This is the first time I've seen this.Also my '83 Z28 has a Class ll trailor hitch welded in place between the frame rails.Do you think this would be a beneficial point to tie together(really just curious as to this.It's not like I'll ever tow anything with her).
Also from pics I've seen it looks like the STB will clear my CFI air cleaner.Has anyone installed one on a CFI motor(is so what brand)?

 

her is a pic of where it goes. the one in the pic is one a guy custom made. (bar infront of tranny pan/ behind oil pan)