daturbosix

iTrader: (2)

what rear sway bar are you running? $h1t!, what rear set-up do you have?

i got lakewood 50/50s, spohn t/a, stock v8 springs(not z28 or t/a), and lakewood boxed lowers. still got the stock panhard. and stock swaybar.

is there a benifit to run a drag sway bar like spohn sells? i cant seem to justify spending that much tho.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

hello jeff,
i'm running a 1985 WS.6 rear sway bar. I believe it's one of the larger rear sway bars with poly bushed endlinks. Going to pickup a rear airbag for the right rear as well and see what happens this year. Stock rear 1984 Z28 springs and cheapie gabriel shocks which are valved 50/50 from the factory. Going to get some LCAs again this year since I heard my boxed in factory ones with poly bushings...aka poor man's lakewoods met their demise the other day by a sawzall and cut in half....not by me lol. Due to the excuse "I thought they were stock anyways"

AlkyIROC

No sway bars here but then my rear suspension is ladder bars

Removing the front sway bar helps as it's dead weight and does nothing to help on the drag strip. The rear sway bar is a different story. Using a rear sway bar can help keep the right rear tire planted since the rotation of the diff wants to pull it off the ground. If you fabricate some custom mounts, you can preload the swaybar by pulling the passenger side down slightly while keeping the driver side at the stock mount location. Doing this means it will put the passenger side under tension and the diff will need more force before being able to lift the right rear wheel off the ground.

It's a tuning aid. Simply bolting it on and forgetting about it will help but using it to tune the suspension is what needs to be done for drag strip action.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

custom mounts how? would you happen to have a picture of what you're talking about?

daturbosix

iTrader: (2)

yes stephen, do tell more.. im all ears!

AlkyIROC

Here's some info

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/rsb.asp
http://www.awrracing.com/pages/pro/endlink.html
http://www.steeda.com/instructions/swaybars.htm
http://www.competitionengineering.co...?CatCode=26001

daturbosix

iTrader: (2)

so could i achive this by threading the whole endlink bolt? and cutting the sleeve to the correct lenth?

AlkyIROC

How do you know where to cut? It's a tuning aid so you need to trial and error the setting until you find what works best. That's why it should be adjustable.

daturbosix

iTrader: (2)

ohhh gotcha..

so all i need is to put one adjustable endlink on the passenger side... correct?

if thats the case, who wants to go halfs?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

how about you figure out the right length then i'll cut some tubing and duplicate it

Bens3rdGen

With those links you have to fabricate some kind of L bracket since our bars have a hole facing up and down and those are designed for a side to side hole.

Shagwell

- stock WS6 bar, homemade everything(torque arm, lcs's, relocates, and subframes) - 1.66 60ft's on 17's... you should be raising the passenger's side to pre-load, not lowering.