LCA Question
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From: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: 5 speed
LCA Question
Which is better and why: adj tubular rear control arms or boxed lower control arms with poly bushings?
Plan on purchasing lcas for my camaro that has 2 inch drop springs.
Can anyone help me out with what I need. Also are rear lca relocation brackets that necessary? If so why?
Please post if you can help me out
Thanks
ps i know i need adj panhard bar/ relo brackets and adj torque arm as my camaro is lowered.
Plan on purchasing lcas for my camaro that has 2 inch drop springs.
Can anyone help me out with what I need. Also are rear lca relocation brackets that necessary? If so why?
Please post if you can help me out
Thanks
ps i know i need adj panhard bar/ relo brackets and adj torque arm as my camaro is lowered.
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS 25th Aniversarry Edition
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Adjustability is always a good thing, just get them with poly bushings if its a street car.
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Re: LCA Question
Originally posted by irocstang
ps i know i need adj panhard bar/ relo brackets and adj torque arm as my camaro is lowered.
ps i know i need adj panhard bar/ relo brackets and adj torque arm as my camaro is lowered.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
adjustable tubular are much more expensive than plane jane boxed with poly bushings, for a reason....
lowered car = relocation brackets, just that simple.
If you need an in depth explanation as to why, do a search, this comes up wayyyy too often.... I forget who, but someone did a nifty picture using paint showing how it works...
adjustable panhard might be a good idea.
lowered car = relocation brackets, just that simple.
If you need an in depth explanation as to why, do a search, this comes up wayyyy too often.... I forget who, but someone did a nifty picture using paint showing how it works...
adjustable panhard might be a good idea.
Re: Re: LCA Question
Originally posted by ShiftyCapone
You do not need an adjustable torque when lowering your car.
You do not need an adjustable torque when lowering your car.
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Because the torque arm is so long, its angle changes by only a very tiny amount when lowering the car. Less than the production tolerances from one car to another, basically. And the rear end's rotational angle therefore changes by an almost unmeasurable amount. Not worth trying to correct for, by itself.
The LCAs however are a very different story. They are quite short, and their angle changes DRASTICALLY when you lower one of these cars. But, adjustable LCAs aren't the answer to that issue; relocation brackets are.
Which is not to say that an adjustable torque arm is undesirable, or unnecessary; only, that lowering the car does not trigger a need for it.
The Panhard bar often does need to be adjustable when lowering; or, better yet, a relocation bracket for it could be installed, so that it remains level at the new ride height. I don't know of anybody that makes that though, but it wouldn't be too tough to fab up.
So, if all you've done is lower your car, get the LCA RLBs first, and see how the car works after that. You can make all these changes one at a time and get their effects sorted out, it doesn't have to be done all at once.
The LCAs however are a very different story. They are quite short, and their angle changes DRASTICALLY when you lower one of these cars. But, adjustable LCAs aren't the answer to that issue; relocation brackets are.
Which is not to say that an adjustable torque arm is undesirable, or unnecessary; only, that lowering the car does not trigger a need for it.
The Panhard bar often does need to be adjustable when lowering; or, better yet, a relocation bracket for it could be installed, so that it remains level at the new ride height. I don't know of anybody that makes that though, but it wouldn't be too tough to fab up.
So, if all you've done is lower your car, get the LCA RLBs first, and see how the car works after that. You can make all these changes one at a time and get their effects sorted out, it doesn't have to be done all at once.
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by sofakingdom
Because the torque arm is so long, its angle changes by only a very tiny amount when lowering the car. Less than the production tolerances from one car to another, basically. And the rear end's rotational angle therefore changes by an almost unmeasurable amount. Not worth trying to correct for, by itself.
The LCAs however are a very different story. They are quite short, and their angle changes DRASTICALLY when you lower one of these cars. But, adjustable LCAs aren't the answer to that issue; relocation brackets are.
Which is not to say that an adjustable torque arm is undesirable, or unnecessary; only, that lowering the car does not trigger a need for it.
The Panhard bar often does need to be adjustable when lowering; or, better yet, a relocation bracket for it could be installed, so that it remains level at the new ride height. I don't know of anybody that makes that though, but it wouldn't be too tough to fab up.
So, if all you've done is lower your car, get the LCA RLBs first, and see how the car works after that. You can make all these changes one at a time and get their effects sorted out, it doesn't have to be done all at once.
Because the torque arm is so long, its angle changes by only a very tiny amount when lowering the car. Less than the production tolerances from one car to another, basically. And the rear end's rotational angle therefore changes by an almost unmeasurable amount. Not worth trying to correct for, by itself.
The LCAs however are a very different story. They are quite short, and their angle changes DRASTICALLY when you lower one of these cars. But, adjustable LCAs aren't the answer to that issue; relocation brackets are.
Which is not to say that an adjustable torque arm is undesirable, or unnecessary; only, that lowering the car does not trigger a need for it.
The Panhard bar often does need to be adjustable when lowering; or, better yet, a relocation bracket for it could be installed, so that it remains level at the new ride height. I don't know of anybody that makes that though, but it wouldn't be too tough to fab up.
So, if all you've done is lower your car, get the LCA RLBs first, and see how the car works after that. You can make all these changes one at a time and get their effects sorted out, it doesn't have to be done all at once.
ok.
an adjustible TQ arm is nice to have, lowered or not for the same reason mentioned by you.
production tolerances are huge, and you can see a traction gain in drag racing by properly adjusting it to match your car, your tire size, and your rear end.
i see a need for adjustable TQ arms on cars.
i see a need for adjustable panhard bars on cars.
i see a need for relocation brackets on cars with improper angles.
the only adjustable part i DONT see a need for on most normal cars, is the LCA itself. it can remain a constant length, and if it cant, then theres usually something else wrong with the bracketry on the rear. only in some extreme cases does it need to be adjusted, and in those cases, if you're asking on here, you shouldnt be driving that car. lol
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
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Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
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The Panhard bar often does need to be adjustable when lowering; or, better yet, a relocation bracket for it could be installed, so that it remains level at the new ride height. I don't know of anybody that makes that though, but it wouldn't be too tough to fab up.
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Really? Cool.
Although, knowing Dean, it's not at all out of the question that it's something he made up himself. He seems to be able to make at least a few such things.
Although, knowing Dean, it's not at all out of the question that it's something he made up himself. He seems to be able to make at least a few such things.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Note: Naed = Dean backwards- it is me.
And you do need an adjustable Tq arm if the car is lowered an adequate amount because your pinion angle goes into the dirt with the lowering and then suspension travel. the adj TQarm allows you to pivot the pinion back up to -1* at stagnant height.
The relocator was from Jegs- but I welded it on instead of the bolt on design.
And you do need an adjustable Tq arm if the car is lowered an adequate amount because your pinion angle goes into the dirt with the lowering and then suspension travel. the adj TQarm allows you to pivot the pinion back up to -1* at stagnant height.
The relocator was from Jegs- but I welded it on instead of the bolt on design.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
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Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Dean backwards- it is me.
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Naed
Note: Naed = Dean backwards- it is me.
And you do need an adjustable Tq arm if the car is lowered an adequate amount because your pinion angle goes into the dirt with the lowering and then suspension travel. the adj TQarm allows you to pivot the pinion back up to -1* at stagnant height.
Note: Naed = Dean backwards- it is me.
And you do need an adjustable Tq arm if the car is lowered an adequate amount because your pinion angle goes into the dirt with the lowering and then suspension travel. the adj TQarm allows you to pivot the pinion back up to -1* at stagnant height.
btw, if you're running any kind of aftermarket rear, its almost mandatory.
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Pinion angle makes a HUGE difference getting the car planted at the line/ the stockers twist like hell...(ever seen one pretzel'd?) 