1. My understanding is that the idler arm is to move horizontal only. If this is true, then is it common for them to wear out often? (less then 6 months)

2. If I have front end lifted. Should I be able to move one wheel by moving the other? (they move)

3. I have vibration. Worst at 65 mph. Also when heavy braking. (brakes are good)

4. Passenger front wheel can move up and down while lifted. You cannot notice it. You have to listen very carefully to hear it make a lite tap noise. (bearing?)

Can anyone clear any of this up for me? This is the only probs with my car, I like it fixed!

Thanks for any help ppl!

 

C'mon! Someones gotta know this stuff!

Bump

 

Sounds like a bad wheel bearing to me. Take the dust cover off the center of the hub and wiggle the wheel you should be able to see if there is any slop between the spindle snout and the hub. Remember this nut is only supposed to be hand tighted untill all slop is removed then backed off till the castle nut lines up with a hole. I have see way too many people overtighten their wheel bearings and wonder why the bearing goes out again in a week. It could also be a bad ball joint, have some one wiggle the wheel up and down while you watch the lower ball joint stud. If you see the stud move at all in its socket then it's bad.

As for the idle arm, I believe you'll get some play since most idlers have a rubber bushing in them somewhere. I'm not real familiar with the F-body idlers so I can't say for certain. Any more than a 1/16" or so of play can't be good. The circle track guys convert to ball bearing idlers to get rid of any and all slop. Make sure you're greasing the joint before you install it.

You should be able to move the other wheel by yanking on the one. If you have the steering locked then the movement that you get is the slop in your tie rods, steering box, and wheel lock mechanizm. My experience shows that the lock mechanism is the biggest offender here, which means that just yanking the wheel back and forth isn't a good indicator. Best to have some one move the steering wheel back and forth while you watch for movement between the stud and body of your tie rods.

 

1. Horizontal only. It can wear out quickly if not greased enough.
2. As in turning? Yes. with no slack.
3. Vibration could be a number of things. Typically warped rotors will cause more vibration with slight pedal.
4. Jack at the a-arm and see if you can move the wheel up. If the wheel will move up while the a-arm stays in place-bad ball joints. Grip the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and see if it wobbles in/out-bad bearings.

Bad wheel bearings can cause all kinds of problems.

 

naf:

1. Greesed before and after it was installed.

2. I guess Im ok here, Im not sure.

3. Rotors look good.

4. How do you tell if the bearing is bad? I have had it out before, to see if it was the problem, but it looked ok to me...

naf and monte: So from what you two tell me everything is ok except Idler arm and the problem is ball joint or bearing???

Well I grab the pass-front wheel and it will move up and down (EX: right hand pulls at 6 and left pushes at 12, and then visa versa), and you cannot see any slack, just hear a tap.

monte: not completely sure on what you mean in the bearing install, I think I got most of it, but Im a Nimrod .

 

If, when you grasp the wheel at 6 and 12 the top of the wheel will wiggle in and out (away from the body) the bearings are probably gone. You can double check by tightening the spindle nut under the dust cover to see if it takes out the slop. You'll still need to replace them, though. The inner and outer bearings shouldn't run you more than $15-20.

A bad ball joint will allow the spindle to lift up from the a-arm vertically. You're fighting the spring when checking it so you usually place a jack under the a-arm and lift the wheel with a tire iron (for leverage) and ensure there is no play between the spindle and a-arm (they're connected by the ball joint).

 

very much!

I will get on it soon. Really, thanks for you help..

 

Vibration can come from a slipped belt in the tire. The wheel bearings sound like the culprit. You could also jack up on the control arm and use a small pry bar to see if you ball joints are moving. Specs of idler arms as follow GM is 1/8 inch movement. For Chevy (same part mind you) its 1/4 inch movement spec. Big problems in astros and s-10's keep your chin up and listen to these guys they are leading you on the right path.

 

1/4!? Id say Im getting about 1 1/2" !!!

I hope its not the tires! I go through them more than anything else! I get them replaced all the time and its still the same vibration... So I hope its not them again. I think Im gonna start with the Idler Arm - Because I called trusty Autozone and it has a lifetime warranty ! And from what your saying - its definatly done!
So it needs replaced anyway "cheaper stuff first - fix the broken".
Thanks for the posts!

 

When you install the new idler arm, be sure to get it at the same height as the pitman arm. You probably knew that, but just in case.

 

You can tell where it sat before. So when I installed it last it was in the same spot...

 

Take a minute to measure both arms from a common chassis reference.. motor mount, etc. The old one could have been off as well.

 

Buy Moog. You may get cheaper parts but in the automotive world you get what you pay for. There also maybe something else bad causing your idler to prematurely wear.Bad tierods, bad centerlink, bad struts or spings.

 

Vibrations at speed and odd tire tread wear are indications of a possible alignment issue. When you replace tires alot is it because they wear uneven? And is this fronts only or all 4? Bad bushings (and balljoints) can throw your alignment off. Its possible it could be a combination of things.

 

The tires tread just falls apart. There is no uneven wear on any of the tires, ever. I just replaced my idler arm, apparently the one I had previously bought was a bad design, and they have fixed it now. Something to do with the seals.

My centerlink bar is also new.

Its much smoother, but I still have vibration at best around 65 MPH. And when braking. Sometimes braking is smooth, somtimes it like a space shuttle landing?!

Could rear springs have anything to do with it? Passenger rear spring is done for. You can just look at the way the car leans and tell.

Thanks for the posts!