Just wondering if i need new sway bar clam shells for the bigger stock bars I just got or are they all the same and it is just the bushing that is different? (eg. going from 32 to 36 on the front).

 

I hope I understand. The metal housings that the bushings fit in are all the same. You'll need new bushings--I suggest TDS's greaseable 36mms and new endlinks, again available from TDS.

JamesC

 

Thanks, so they are the same. Sorry, should have been more clear though, i don't know why I call them that

So you actually need new endlinks, why? different length? The bar will sit in the same spot, correct?

 

You'll probably destroy the old ones in removing them (they're generally rusted to hell after 20 years or so). At any rate, the ones from Lon will be zinc coated, poly, and reasonably cheap. Why not?

JamesC

 

I would NOT recommend using the factory clamshells with polyurethane bushing put into them. They can (and for me- always have) break when the stiffer bushing and larger bar force is put into them. Best to buy everything aftermarket including the wider stronger clamshells and the appropriate wider bushing to fit. I believe Lon (TDS) sells everythuing as a kit so you can buy the clamps and bushing together toi fit your bar.

 

According to TDS's website, the bracket/housing/clamshell IS a modified OEM piece--I've experienced absolutely no difficulties with them after several years of use.

http://www.Top-DownSolutions.com/pro...products_id=42

JamesC

 

Those are wider band GM style clamps. Its the narrow GM type that I was refering to. GM offers two types on 80's cars and trucks. I was thinking these were the narrow ones from the factory originally but I must be mistaken. I do not have anything factory on my car leftover to remember.

 

So I see the grease fitting is on the outside shell. Won't that just put the grease between the shell and bushing. Isn't it more important to have it between the bar and bushing?

 

The greasable bushings from Spohn have a hole that lines up with the zerk on the shell, and then has small groves on the bar contact surface of the bushing for the grease to flow into.. Dunno about the other brands.. Spohn's also have real nice beefy shells..

 

When rebuilding the suspension on my cars I've only used new endlink bolts if I changed the ride height. Reason being they are only threaded so much, and combined with however long the endlink spacers are, it may or may not be enough thread to tighten them properly. When you lower the ride height the angle of the swaybar tabs change, so might have to modify the spacer and run a bolt w/ more threading to maintain that angle. But on a stock height car I always reuse the bolt and bushing stops (thats what I call em) unless they are damaged/rusted, I consider them a non wear item in a sense, just change the bushings themselves. If I need new ones I usually try the JY first, but last ditch scenario you can buy em from Autoparts stores (Autozone, Checkers, etc). When I've used aftermarket bolts with more threading in the past they were from PST.

 

thanks for the info guys. So here is another siilly question. Are you supposed to tighten the end links down when the car is on the ground kind of like control arms or does it matter?

 

As far as I know, GM only used the type in question on 82-92 thirdgens.

Same with TDS.

JamesC

 

Do it with the wheels loaded (ramps make this a bit easier).
For OE endlink bushings, there is a torque spec. For poly, snug plus just a little (use Locktite). If the wheels are drooping, and you set to the torque spec or "snug plus" the endlink will most likely end up being too loose.

Norm