are there any bolt in sfc tha will clear the stock exhaust

 

if i remember, most SFCs are designed for stock exhaust applications. PLEASE correct me if Im wrong guys. Ive got single 3" and I doubt it would fit.

Just curious, are you planning on bolting them in the having someone weld them as well, or just bolt them in?

 

alot i have looked at say "willnot clear stock exhaust" and i will prob weld them in

 

Brand: Competition Engineering
Product Line: Competition Engineering Bolt-On Frame Connectors
Connector Finish: Black powdercoated
Connector Material: Steel
Quantity: Sold as a pair.
Notes: Fits stock exhaust.

Summit part# CEE-3120 . However, part# CEE-3111 looks to be the same, but they are configured differently it says so those will not clear. But that first part# is bolt in, and will clear factory exhaust, according to summit

 

Old post bump....What did you end up with????????

 

Alston Racing makes a nice set of Subframe connectors, bolt in for $170

available off of the Top Down Solutions companys website, which is a sponsor here, so click thier link

i have the alston racing bolt in ones, and tehy clear my 3" cat back, so they surley WILL clear a stock exhaust

 

Iroczman....Thanks for the reply....Can you weid them after you bolt them on???? I am going with 3inch so im glad to hear the y work well...Do you like them????

 

yes you can weld them in, i have a set and am going to get them welded in once my brake upgrade is finished

 

yes you can weld them in, if you P.M. me i can write out what i did on my install of them..

but basically i bolted htem in,a fter i drilled all the holes, double bolted htem in,a nd once i get to borrow my friends welder, i will weld them in, - because u can do both, have bolts-and weld them too

make sure the chassis of the car is loaded when you are installing them too..

theyre a great bang for the buck,a dn DO really stiffen up the car

 

Iroc, have pm'ed ya...Thanks...Tom

 

here, i typed up some onfo about the sfc's that i mentioned above and P.M.ed it to Tom, but i figured i'd post it here as well, in case anyone else had any questions or whatever....



Hey Tom, i'm Dave. Just getting back to you about the subframe connectors.. heres some more info

-These subframe connectors are made by Alston Racing, and use tubular shaped metal, they are not boxed(no difference really). they come with each end shaped to tuck around the front/rear subframe area, you can view pics on thier website.

-one IMPORTANT piece of info here, is that these subframe connectors connect to the two INNER (centermost) frame pieces, not the ones nearest the rocker panels; but the ones closer to the trans/rear housing/driveshaft. there are some pros/cons to this setup, but overall, they are almost the same as sfc's made by other companies.... IN FACT, these alston racing ones allow you to run TWO sets of subframe connectors if needed... the AR ones in the middle,a nd a set of otehr ones that mount/run near the rocker panels! i've yet to do this, but i have heard of people that do so...

-the sfc's come with the holes for the bolts already drilled in them, but you will have to use a drill to sllllightly enlarge these holes, because the hole size shrinks a few mm's when the metal is powedercoated...obviously

installation is pretty straightforward, jack up the car, set the cars wheels on some concrete blocks/wood blocking UNDER THE WHEELS, dont have the car on jackstands.. you NEED the weight of the car to be as it would be on the ground (i.e. on the 4 wheels) otehrwise if u install the sf's witout the weight on the wheels, there is a chance u may give you chassis an "arc" and the doors wont close properly, and the sfc's will do nothing at all..

-use a floor jack or ur hand to hold one end up, mark it, drill it out, bolt it loosely, do the other end, same goes for the otehr side..

--you are lucky, that you will be redoing the exhaust, because you should PLAN on taking that off under a normal install. the one front/passanger side attachment point is directly above the cat-y-pipe, so its real tricky if you have the exhaust int he way.. you will also need to temporarily relocate the fuel line on the drivers side (NOT REMOVE IT, just loosen the bolts/bracket and swing it out of the way)


--a tip, i used a jamb nut approach when bolting up my sfc's.... i installed them one day, drove around for 1 day, the next day i jacked up and blocked up the car again, -retightened the nuts, and added a second set of nuts on top of the existing nuts... called "jam nutting or double nutting" ... when you do this, the first nut should be tight, and u tighten teh second one ONTO the first one, dont let both spin, or the jamb nut effect isnt correct, tighten one onto the other.. then 3 or 4 days later after driving the car around.. i went in and retightened all 8 primary nuts a touch, and then retightened all 8 secondary nuts to be tight again.. (sounds compliccated, its really not)

--I am also running the Edelbrock T.E.S. header setup, and a 3" Y pipe, as well as a 3" cat and a 3" cat back, so ur setup sounds very timilar to mine. and should work perfectly fine as long as you get each end of the sfc's up REALLY tight to the framerails, otehrwise you may have the exhaust/cat banging on a sfc when it floats over a bumb, and for the most secure chassis stiffening too.

-you can SURLEY have the outside edges of each bracket welded to the framerail for added security, even over the course of time. --ive been told that nuts/bolts can come loose, and the holes can wander them selves looser,, that is true, but welds can also break.. --therefore, why not have BOTH, bolt them suckers in, and weld them up later if you like.


-i bought mine from this website:

http://www.top-downsolutions.com/
and here is the product link:
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/pro...9d512b6a5e6b13

anything else, ask it up.. i really like my subframe connectors,a nd when teh time comes when im making more power, i plan on adding a second set on the outside "frame"...



Dave