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Help me pick a set of LCA

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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 11:27 AM
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Camaroz29's Avatar
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Help me pick a set of LCA

What is the difference in strength/weight when it comes to boxed vs tubular? I see the boxed costs more, but I always thought tubular was the strongest. I'm considering any of these:

Spohn Performance, Inc.

It is about time I got a set of LCA, I just want to make the best $/performance decision.
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 12:49 PM
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From: Buckhannon, WV
Car: 84' Monte
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: ferd 9" posi 3.50 gears
I wouldn't really worry about the construction of the arm itself, you'll never put enough of a load on it to flex more than a few thousands of an inch. You need to decide on a bushing/bearing material. This will all depend on what you intend to do with the car.
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 01:51 PM
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From: Philadelphia,Pa
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 400sb
Transmission: 700r4
------------------>SPOHN!!!!
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 02:52 PM
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From: Harford County, MD
Car: camaro sportcoupe
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: G-Force GF5R
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
it really boils down to brand loyalty. this is one of those things that is so hard to screw up that any brand or style will work. the biggest thing to look for is if you need adjustable ones or non adjustable ones, then whether or not it should have poly bushings or rod ends. and those are decided by what type of abuse they'll see.
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 03:44 PM
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So I take it the Spherical rod-ended ones are more expensive because they are much more durable and are designed more for road racing?
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 06:53 PM
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From: Harford County, MD
Car: camaro sportcoupe
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: G-Force GF5R
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
i won't say more durable, but they are geared more towards autocross and road racing. they are more expensive cause the rod-ends are expensive.
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mw66nova
i won't say more durable, but they are geared more towards autocross and road racing. they are more expensive cause the rod-ends are expensive.
I think I'll go with the pricey ones, it seems the poly ones would be fine for increasing traction but the rod ends will also increase handling. I'm all about doing both if possible.
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 04:01 PM
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
rod ends are loud and rattley on the street, and they wear out. Buy extra rod ends for annual replacement if you're driving it on the street. Perhaps even boots to keep dirt/mud out of the bearings.

poly/rod end (poly on the car side, rod end on the diff side) is a nice compromise, so is del-a-lum bushings.

If you're not hardcore into racing of any kind, then i'd avoid adjustable ones. Just another thing to have to mess with.
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 08:44 PM
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From: Buckhannon, WV
Car: 84' Monte
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: ferd 9" posi 3.50 gears
Heim's are a pain on the street. They tend to wear out in about 10,000 miles or slightly longer with the big $$ heims. They also transmit ALL of the noise and vibrations from the rear end....most people find it very anoying. If you just play around on the street and go to the strip from time to time, go poly and forget about it.
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 10:29 PM
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From: Mobile, AL
Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
there is no difference in strength between tublar, and square stock. People have alot of opinions and not alot of facts. bushing material is what you need to worry about.
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 11:47 PM
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
theoretically speaking, tubular will have more strength in compressive and tensile loading. However with the thickness used, it's a moot point either way, until you have 2500HP or something stupid.

non adjustable poly ones are pretty cheap, in retrospect it would have been cheaper to get them, then it was for me to box my stock ones ($10 in materials, $65 for busings, $23 to press in bushings, $3 for paint).
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BMmonteSS
Heim's are a pain on the street. They tend to wear out in about 10,000 miles or slightly longer with the big $$ heims. They also transmit ALL of the noise and vibrations from the rear end....most people find it very anoying. If you just play around on the street and go to the strip from time to time, go poly and forget about it.
The rod ends must have some advantages if they are popular even though they are a pain. For my purposes I guess I'll just get the tubular poly ended ones now that I know that rod ends are a pain in the *** on the street.
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 12:27 PM
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From: Southwest Florida
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The rod ends must have some advantages if they are popular even though they are a pain.
they do have some advantages. Adjustability, and zero bind no matter the suspension angle. But for street use, the disadvantages out way the advantages.
- for drag race with street tires I have found that the poly ends help cushion the launch, thus taking some of the "hit" out of the tires, allowing them to hook better.

mw66nova - you squeaked off a 12.50 now, huh? that's what I'm takling about! - (sorry to be off topic)
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 06:48 PM
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From: IA
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 305ci TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Here's a thread with a lot of good information about LCAs, different bushing materials, and rod ends. It's geared more towards autocross, but it's still very informative.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...our-thing.html
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