Finally I tested to push the car some....

And It didnt feel good, while accelerating it went pretty good but in higher speeds it was like driving on ice, no road feeling at all.

The the brakes, the car was all over the road, the backend lifted and the car was acting like It had its own life. I needed to work with the steering wheel and the foot to keep it on the road......not funny

What susp/chassi mods do you recommend for drag strip?

I have
Spohn torque arm
LCA (relocated)
Panhard bar
Red adj konis in the rear
the rest is stock suspension...............

 

Put some SFC in the car.

I had all the adjustable stuff in the rear. LCA, panhard, torque arm plus SFC and run stock suspension for years.

 

gta, my setup is similar to yours except, I have SFCs, and a "stock" torque arm. I retained my rear sway bar, but ditched the front. Stock springs, and stock front struts. 60' time is 1.54.

I agree with Stephen. SFCs are THE first mod that should be done to a thirg gen, as far as suspension goes, IMO.

 

I have spohn SFC, new in box..........

Bought them a few years ago but havent put them on, for some reasons I cant remember.... (lazy...)

Why ditch the front sway bar?

My first and only 60' time was 2.2, I need more traction.......................or learn to hande the foot

 

All the trick suspension or chassis stuff won't work if you can't get traction. Get some slicks or new tires for traction

 

I have MT ET Streets on but thinking of getting some wide 15" rims and another set of tires...............

 

Just because you have slicks doesn't mean they're any good. How old are they? Typically, any slicks older than 2 years are dried out and even if they have lots of rubber, won't get sticky from a burnout.

A good set of slicks should easily get you a 1.9x 60' time or better.

A DOT slick isn't designed for street use. It only has a DOT rating for racing classes that demand a DOT tire. Street driving dries out the tires. Buy an extra set of rims and have some real slicks installed on them for track use only.

 

I'll see what I will buy for next year...

I have to control my wheelspin with my foot now, 415cui and a procharger gives me plenty of torque

 

Even with new tires you could still have poor traction if there's no track prep.

 

2.2 60 with rear suspension and mickey's? I'd be pissed.
- What pinion angle are you running and what hole are the lca's in/what angle are they at? - Also, I'm guessing you have the factory rear-disc brakes? If so, they basically do nothing factory(mine woudn't even keep the wheels from turning, sitting on jack stands at idle). With front brakes only, the rear will get loose during shut-down. Either shim the prop. valve or swap it for an adjustable and get some rear brake bias.

 

Got it down to 1.8 with less throttle on the street.......
Will try lower tire pressure also.

Will check the angles this week and the rear brakes!

Thx!

/N.

 

LCA angle 5 deg
Pinion Angle was +1.5deg so I 'll adjust it tonight to around -1.5deg

/N.

 

that pinion angle could be a lot of your problem.

 

Yeah....

Hopefully I adjusted it right now..Little bit unsure about the angles....

Now the driveshaft is at 0deg and the rear is leaning forward about 1.5 deg it should be correct or?

Will test someother day, also adjusted the panhard bar, it was a little off.............

/N.

 

0 ds - 1.5 pinion = -1.5 pinion angle. Not a bad place to start, but I'd get more agressive for drag race. Everyone usually reccommends around 2-3 degrees down pinion(negative), but I've run as much as -6. More angle is harder on u-joints, but it also causes the suspension to react more aggressively(faster) which, in my case on 17's, is needed to plant the tires. To much can also effect handling in some situations.

- What/who's tq arm? Length of the arm plays an important role in the amount of pinion angle needed. Longer arms react slower, thus need more angle for the same effect.

 

its from spohn.............

I'll post the result when I have tested it, also I have found a MIG weld I can borrow to get those SFC in.

thx guys........

/N.

 

Have not been able to test it during the weekend.... had some other troubble that need to be fixed first, I'll let you know.......later.

/N.

 

Finally I could test the car....

But its still the same issues, the rear end is lifting when braking and the car is all over the road

I will weld in my SFC this winter, I hope it gets better after that....

/N.

 

how are your front struts and how stiff are the rear shocks set?
Some moving around can be contributed to the Mickey's, as the soft sidewall has to come ack down after a run which tends to shimmy around a bit.

Also, as I was saying before, jack the back of the car up, set it on stands and put it in gear against the brakes. If it's easy to make the tires turn, you don't have enough rear brake bias, which is factory with many of the rear disc cars. If the back braking is doing next-to nothing, it will wander around pertty bad on anything other than radials.