Okay here is the deal...
My set belts are broken... the inertia wheels do jack. My last firebird had harnesses and my wife fancies those.

I was thinking of getting an 4pt roll cage merely for the purpose of having a place to mount my harnesses safely.

I will not run 11's anytime soon so I doubt I need to worry about the 8pts.

The 8pt cage is only $20 extra, I would get it but I am afraid I wouldnt fit well... I am a pretty tall and wide guy and I am already cramped and I am worried about being uncomfortable while shifting.

Would you go for a 4pt for the harnesses, and for the mere pleasure of not having to drive in a jungle gym?

Or should I get the 8pt? I believe swing out kits are against NHRA rules?

perhaps I should buy an 8pt... weld up the 4point part and attach the remaining half when I make 11's?

 

You'd need 5 points to be NHRA legal, but swing outs are approved. You wouldn't be DOT legal though, and having your bare skull bouncing off the cage in a crash would ruin your day.

 

I would use roll bar padding for sure. I know that isn't a complete fix but it helps. Yeah not much is DOT approved... but here in GA you get away with alot.

 

What's the difference between NHRA legal and DOT legal?
Do you need to be both to race at a track, or..?

And what the heck is a 5pt cage ? (or, where is that magic 5th point?)

That sounds like a good plan, especially if it's only a $20 difference anyway.

 

go with the 8 point..

 

NHRA legal, means you can race at a NHRA aproved race track, or a track that follows the NHRA tech rules. When you race, you build your car, to follow the specific rules of racing body you will be racing with, and the class rules.

DOT legal, means it is aproved by the DOT for use on the US roads. For example, your factory seat belts are DOT approved for road use, Most aftermarket harness and mounting, is not DOT approved, and can not legaly be used as a saftey device on the road.

5th point - It is the drivers side door bar.

I would not suggest an 8 point, on a car that you plan to drive on the street, as Apeiron pointed out, you do not want your head near the halo that an 8 point has, that will be the end of you, and whatever poor person gets in as a passanger, if you were in a wreck. I would do a 5point at most, unless you plan to wear your helmet everywhere you go.

I do like the fact, that you are wanting to do a roll bar, for mounting the harness', that is a smart move. You do not want to be harnessed in a car, without roll-over protection. This way you can also mount the harness in the proper way. Just keep in mind, that in a wreck, the human body can stretch an amazing amount, you don't want anything like a roll-bar tube, very close to your head at all. I would shy you away from the 8point, unless you are racing in a class that specificly requires a cage like that.

 

i would put in a full NHRA legal 6pt rollbar... but with the swingout brackets really low to the floor and as far behind the seat as possible.

then drive it around without the doorbars in.


this will give you all teh room of that 4pt you're thinking of, plus you can then be NHRA legal by just bolting the bars back in.

 

It is settled then... I will buy an 8pt cage... you have to weld it all up anyways.... I will only weld in the rear section or 4 point portion... so I can mount some harnesses. It will also be out of the way of my legs and what not. When or even If I ever cross the 11 second bridge, I will have the rest of the roll cage laying around ready to be welded on... A 4point is better than nothing... especially in my t-top car. Thanks for the input guys.

 

note.

rollCAGEs have a halo and front bars.
rollBARSs have no halo. no front bars..(they may or maynot have door bars)

 

FWIW, a 5 point, and an 8 point neither have a halo. Only 10+ point bars do, and then you will require a window net. A five point is the MINIMUM, that NHRA will accept. Only a drivers side bar is required, and must pass between the elbow, and shoulder area of the drivers arm. Just installing a 5 point is a waste, IMO, as the passenger side bar greatly helps stiffen the chassis. You will pass tech with a properly installed 5 point, but you may as well add the passenger bar as well. You do not need a rollbar when you cross the 11 second bridge. NHRA rules require it if you run 11.49 or faster. Also, do not forget your SFI approved jacket, as it will also be required.

 

Thanks dewey, for the info.

I'm gonna have to go find pictures of each of these sets in a 3rd gen, so I know what a 4 point, 6 point, 8pt, etc is. Lest I look like the fool who doesn't know what they are!

 

First of all, as mentioned above, get the terms correctly as to what's a roll cage and whats a roll bar. It avoids a lot of confusion.

4 point is a street bar. Not really effective for anything except a place to mount a harness. The 4 point consists of the main hoop and 2 bars going back from the main hoop.

Most 6 point roll bars are a 4 point with both door bars added. The door bars can be swingouts for easier access in a street car and are also NHRA/IHRA legal.

An 8 point roll bar just has extra braces that go from the main hoop under the cross bar down towards the tranny tunnel.

A roll cage can start as a 6 or 8 point roll bar but has a halo bar around the roof and a-pillar bars which adds 2 more points. This would be a simple 8 or 10 point cage and the number of points can go up with all the extra reinforcing bars that can be added.

My cage is considered a 12 point spec cage but I don't have the bars going from the a-pillar bars through the firewall. A 12 point spec cage also has a dash/knee bar when compared to a 10 point cage requirements. I also have X door bars and run a sill bar which runs along the door sill between the main hoop and the A-pillar bar.

 

whoa, ok, thanks for that info stephen!
I'm gonna have to go with a 6pt roll(bar), and swingouts, in the future. Thanks.

Was this of any help to you nelapse?

 

sure, I am doing the 4 pt roll bar deal and only welding up the 4pt for harnesses... when the time is right I will finish the setup

 

Since you will be removing almost all of the interior, you might want to just finish it up with the sidebars as well. This way you will only have to remove interior pieces only once. But, if removing the interior pieces is no big deal for you, then go for it.

 

I have removed that interior a hundred times for numerous reasons... one more a few years down the road wont kill me.

There is no such thing as a car that has it all you know? You want a really lightweight car? You sacrifice interior... You want a super fast car but want to be light? Go ahead get rid of everything... in return.... put this heavy *** roll cage in your car.
Want a street car that is daily driven, that runs low 11's? Hope you are a contortionist.

Sucks you know... You want a car with all the bells and whistles but you must sacrifice one thing to gain another... always a balance..