Will someone please list all of the things you think could make a 89 RS wander on the hiway (Besides me being drunk) Have had 4 front end alinements in the last couple of weeks (Warranty) New idler arm, new Ball joints, new wheels, and tires....Also tightened the steering box up some, it was loose.....Im kinda leaning towards bad control arm bushings...Is there anything in the rear that colud contribute to this problem.??? The car holds corners like a super hero, it just seems to wander on the road, thanks for any answers, Tom....

 

On some roads the crown of the road bed will cause a car to wander especially one with tires as wide/low profile as the ones on your RS.Have you noticed whether she does it more on surface streets than on the interstate?

On the wheel aligkments have you had a 4 wheel alignment done.It's not as critical with a solid rear axle car as it would be with one with an independent rear but it's good insurance to diagnoce a problem.you mention replacing the idler arm - is the pitman arm new also?I ask this also since you stated the steering box was loose.And did you check the frame rail around the steering box for stress cracks?

 

Good point. I hear these cars can be famous for this.

You might want to check out all of the bushings also.

 

With the car in the air, and front suspension hanging, use a prybar/flat screwdriver, and pry around in the inboard front control arm bushing area. Get a view of how much bushing is left, and how much play you've got. New poly mounts there would be nice, but i'm leery about saying this can lead to a "wander", in fact, I don't think it would.

There's no such thing as a 4 wheel alignment on these cars, unless you've got aftermarket adjustable stuff back there. Otherwise, there's nothing they can do, but hit you for an extra $20 gullible charge.

What alignment specs did you use? (I like the "aggressive" one listed on the main page of TGO, in the tech articles)

oh, main thing to check, is steering box play. The box itself mounted to the frame you said was loose, but I mean the stuff inside wears out. Also, where the steering shaft mounts into the box. You can remove the bolts (one on each end), and remove the intermediate shaft, and check that for wear. Or, more easily, grab the shaft with your big bear hands, and try to twist it. If you can make it twist at all by hand (unless you're a REAL yard-ape), then it's worn.
You can buy a new box if needed, and/or intermediate shaft. Of course a wonderbar is nice to have, but without it, the car shouldn't have any wander.
My money is on the shaft/box, since you say you've done tie rods and idler arms and whatnot, along with balanced tires.

 

Just throwing this into the night: Proper tire inflation?

JamesC

 

If you've adjusted your steering box by tightening the over center adjustment screw on top, you've started at step two of properly adjusting the box. The worm gear (in line with the steering shaft) should be adjusted first by setting the adjuster plug at the input shaft with the over center set screw loose, then the over center screw is set. What has likely happened is the worm gear still has some play fore and aft (in line with the steering shaft) and you've tightened the over center screw (in line with the pitman shaft)down on it. Now it feels "tighter" but as you go over center (straight line highway stuff/changing lanes/etc.) you're feeling a rapid transition as the worm gear takes up it's slack fore and aft.

I could be wrong (and often am) but I get concerned when I hear someone say "I tightened my steering box" instead of the more accurate "I pulled my steering box and properly adjusted the input shaft for pre-load and set the over center adjustment at 6-12 in/lbs over center". BTW there's a tech article on montecarloss.com on adjusting this box.

 

Well I meant that I had tightened the gears inside the steering box...It was not loose on the frame...I will check for that tho, and cracks also......Thanks to everyone for their quick replys......You guys are the greatest.......

 

That's cool. When you pulled the box to tighten, I mean adjust, it you would have noticed if the frame mount was bad. Just double check the mounting bolts and make sure you tightened them back up correctly when you put it back in.

Did you check the rag joint when you pulled the box?

 

Naf, that you very much for your reply.......I should have said all I did was tighten the allen bolt down some, as there was a bus load of slop in it...it seems to have helped, but as you said, now it changes direction on its own...One moment I am apply left pressure on the wheel to go straight, and in the nxt moment I have to apply right pressure to stay straight....It wears you down after awhile, and kills some of the joy of driving the car....If it is not beyond my ability, I will pull the box, and adjust it as you said....I have not done anything to the rag as you called it, is that the flexible thing right before the box???? Also now with the bigger tires the car seem to "road steer" I guess that is what you would say.....Do you think the idler not being the same height as the pitman arm could be the problem??? I dont know if it not the same height, but after I put it on, I read on a post that you were supposed to measure the height of both, and adjust the idler arm to the pitman arm, i did not do that...BUT it has been laser alined 4 or 5 times in the last couple of wees at 2 different sears stores.....Any other ideas????? Thank you very much...I am open to any and all suggestions.....Tom

 

Check for play in the universal at the base of the seering column. I was being tortured by the same steering situation where it always felt like I was overcorrecting everytime I turned the wheel. It turns out that the column had play in it at this swivel due to a small broken preload spring that holds the parts in tension. I never saw this problem before & my car only had 30K miles on it. Have someone wiggle the steering wheel while you watch for play in the shaft.
lonnie

 

Will do Lonnie, thanks.............