I'm interested in purchasing a Spohn Torque Arm, but there are so many options that I'm a little confused.

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I have an automatic transmission in my 1991 GTA, so I assume I have a 700r4.

My guess is to NOT get the trans mounted torque arm that is available.

That leaves me with the "Adjustable Torque Arm - 700R4/T-5 Trans"

http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1300

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First question: Polyurethane Bushing vs. Chromoly Spherical Rod End

My guess is the Spherical Rod End

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Second question: Driveshaft loop

I don't think I need this

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Third question: Mild Steel vs 4130 Chrome Moly

I know the Chrome Moly is lighter than the steel. But, does that mean the Chrome Moly is weaker than the steel?

Saving weight is great, as long as I don't sacrifice strength.

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Thanks for your help!
Bill

 

get a poly bushing if you drive on the street, spherical are noisy
chromoly is lighter and stronger that mild steel, but it tends to fatigue faster. but unless you beat the living hell out of it i think a chromoly one will work find for you, if you dont mind the xtra money

 

spherical rod end. more rigid, and helps for some more adjustment. bushings are soft, quiet if its a daily driver. if you will be drag racing often, you will want the drive shaft loop, as it is will be required once you break certain times (dont know off the top of my head but the loop is one of the first things techs will go after you for at the track. chromoly is much much stronger than steel, but unless your making tons of power it might not be necessary for your application (save you a few bucks also) this is a great piece. i had severe wheel hop issues with stock suspension this completely emliminated it.

 

There are a few different drive shaft loop options. Which should I get? Also, it says not to get them if I lower the car. I am considering doing so. Would this cause a problem?

Also, what times do I need to break in order to require the drive shaft loop?

 

Do the tracks require front loops only or front and rear loops? Also... any ideas on the problem of lowering the car? Maybe I'm better off getting the loop seperately?

 

if you get the crossmember with the loop on it already you shouldnt have any problems with your car being lowered, tracks usually require them when you run slicks, and past a certain time (not sure on the exact times but i think its 13.0 and above doesnt need them) dual loops is more for all out racing. For a daily driven car, go with poly bushings so it will abosorb more of the vibration , and mild steel unit as it will probably take the abuse better.

 

I'm running the complete Spohn suspension setup and
the front driveshaft loop on the crossmember. My car has
been lowered about 1 1/4 rear,Eibach springs and no
problem at all with the loop. Pretty much centered.

If had gone with the rear loop, think would have had a
problem. Am also running poly and hiem joint split on the
rest of the arms and bars. Poly to the chassis side to avoid
noise.
Come to think about it probably could'nt have heard anything anyway over the exhaust.

Later

 

Spohn TQ rod end here, car lowered 1.75".

There was bolt in the trans tunnel I had to remove that went to a bracket. Seemed I was the only one with this problem.

In the rear, the axle mount under FULL travel would hit the underside of the car. A BFH and a few wacks, that was fixed. It was even worse when I shaved my bumpstops.

 

Nahh, I had to do this to a friends car also. Something about cars that have rear disc brakes from the factory have that problem..

Personally Get the front loop, Mild Steel and a poly bushing. If you feel that you want to try the rod end eventually you can always buy one from Steve for a few bucks.

Chrome Moly is stronger, which means you can use thinner wall tubing to make the same part, hence the weight savings. (.120 MS vs. .095 4130)

 

Bill,

I agree with kat. For everyday use get the mild steel and poly. Sperical is noisy and a harder ride. Moly is stronger but cost more. You probably don't need a loop. My 2cc. Have fun.

 

I dont have rear disk, and the car never had it. Bare bones as you can get. I searched on here and could not find anyone who had the bolt problem. The hitting the bottom of the car, several people did.

 

I've never heard of chromoly having a fatigue issue, I think most of the problems result from improper welds. And like Kat said, its not lighter. Chromoly parts are only lighter when less material is used (like thinner tubing). Its additional strength allows less material to be used.

I'd use the mild steel and poly end for my car.