Anyone else have this issue? I did these last summer, yet my car still squeaks and creaks about as much as it did before...yet many on here seem to feel they cure a ton of squeaks in these cars. With 112k miles on my chassis, with zero accident damage, I am quite surprised by this. Will welding them in versus bolting them on make any difference? Should I add the Spohns outboard, leaving the TDS's inboard? I read someone mention that idea...

I feel like an idiot, as I seem to be one of the few to be completely underwhelmed by SFCs. I added bolt on SLP SFCs to my Z28 years ago, and felt the difference immediately on a low mileage car. With this one, I really struggle to tell any difference at all. I'd love to think welding them in would be a cure all, but I doubt it...they've been in for less than 2k miles. I have enough squaks that even my fiance complains she feels safer in my Z28 because it doesn't feel like its going to rattle apart!

Any help/advice is appreciated...

 

Lexans t-tops make a lot of interior squeak noise. Switching to glass quiets down interior noise.

 

I like the spohns. Welding them is a MUST in my opinion. I paid a shop to weld them in and they welded the front but only bolted the rear to the LCA(go figure). While i had my exhaust done i had the shop(different place) put some weld on the LCA part and i noticed a difference in just that. My car doesnt creak over bumps like it used to.

T-top cars are just a lot louder then hardtops in my experiance(though not my gf's 2000 T/A its pretty quite).

Is the weatherstripping in good shape on the t-tops? Try some silicone on them it seems to quite the old weatherstripping quite a bit.

Id definently try and have the sfcs welded though.

 

My T - Top '86 squeaks a lot more than my 92. In fact my 92 is quite. But the other day I took the door panels off my 92 and tightened every bolt. Amazing how many were loose bolts there were. In fact I have been tightening screws and bolts all over my car. A lot can get loose in 15 years. The door is the big one with all of the opening and closing over the years.

 

Well I do have Lexan tops, but they are brand new NOS ones I bought off eBay...I did notice when I use my old set instead of the new set, rattles do decrease, naturally. I guess I can try getting some glass ones one of these days...I just spent $200 on these...

The interior will be coming out next spring when I get my underbody repainted (just spent $2,800 making the exterior show quality) and the TDS's welded, and I have the carpet and headliner replaced. While its out, I'm planning to put down some Dynamat myself...I imagine the combo of Dynamat with retightening interior pieces should help? Should I add the Spohns with my TDS's already on there? I just want to quiet this thing down...I know these cars were bad...I've owned 3. But my car with 112k and the '91-'92 chassis improvements rattles more than my old '89 with 96k with no reinforcement...FWIW, as I said, the t-tops seem to be the least of the issue, being brand new...

 

You really must weld them to do it right.

 

have you upgraded or replaced any of the suspension components? i just replaced all the bushing up front with poly and that made a huge didfference in ride and noises. in the rear i have tubularcontrol arms and panhard bar stock torque arm with original 1986 bushings and my suspension is much quieter than when i bought the car. even without the sfc's.

 

For the TDS SFC's bolt them in, then weld them. Adding Spohns also helps stiffen things up.

If you don't have a WonderBar/Steering Brace then fitting one will help a lot in reducing front end slop.

Most rattles and squeeks are from interior trim pieces.

 

Years ago I had those same style subframes bolted on then after my t-56 install I took them off and surprisingly I could feel a lot more body twist without them after having them on for 3 years. So they are helping but maybe wielding them on might make a little more of a difference, or go with ones that wield along the sides like spohns or something.