I posted a while back about how I hit a curb.

I replaced the spindle, the control arm, and got the frame welded.

Upon finally getting everything put back together, the drivers side wheel, the one that hit the curb, is still pushed back.

While turning left more than half the way, the wheel rubs against the wheel well.

Does anyone have ANY clue what could possibly be wrong?

 

Bent fenders can cause one hell of an illusion with the wheels.

 

hey SR
How did your car turn out?

 

Maybe the allignment's off??

 

u may have shifted the front sub frame its only 4 bolts

 

You shifted the subframe... either live with it or look for a new roller. I did the same thing left wheel sat in about 3 inches engine sat 3 inches to the right and right wheel was flush with the fender. I had to replace the spindle control arm wheel and k member, it was never the same. No shop would put it on an alignment rack because I already replaced the parts.

 

If you bent the subframe, it would likely be more cost effect to move all your stuff over to another car. The "subframes" in these cars are not bolt in, thus it would require being put on a frame machine and pulled straight. IF it recieved that much damage, it will likely never be truely right again.

If you shifted/bent the k-member, it is mounted via 6 bolts to the subframe. It has alignment dowels plus the bolts and does not just "shift" over w/o there being other problems.

 

????

I see a lot of terms being tossed around. There is no frame on an f-body. There is no bolt in subframe on an f-body. There is just a unibody chassis. The k-member bolts in with 6 big bolts and two dowels as stated above...but isnt the subframe.

In order for the wheel to be pushed back a noticable amount like that, I would think that things got tweaked in a couple areas. While the k-member is a beefy piece, it is possible that the pockets for the a-arms got bent.

You said you had the "frame" welded...what exactly did you have welded? Did the sheetmetal of the unibody crack and separate? If so thats a good indication that there are other issues.

If it were me...in my humble opinion of course... The first thing ide do is double check the small stuff. Make sure the control arm you got is good, and make sure the strut isnt bent up. Depending on your car, and how much rearward movement you have in your strut mount, it could just be the caster is out of whack. If this is so, you should be able to see drag marks on top of the wheel well where the strut mount is bolted. If everything checks out...Ide be very tempted to toss in a known good k-member. Its alittle bit of work, but if it fixes your problem, its well worth it.

Just my 0.02.... These cars, along with other unibody cars, can be a royal pain to get right after even the slightest collision.

Good luck!

J.

 

my kmember was bent and when replaced 2 bolt holes were off about 3/4 of an inch. If the subframe was welded with out being straightened I would invest in a roller. Its what I did