This is my 84' Z28 that I'm having done. It is getting a 4-link, Strange coil-overs and 33X21.5 Sportsman pro's on 15X15 Weld Prostars.

 

interesting, is it getting a 1000hp blown big block?

 

When I can afford one.

 

Thats nice!!! what are you doing for frame rails and Such? How much larger are the fenders now?
Keep the pic's coming.

 

Thanks. The new rear frame rails and 8 point cage are 1 3/4 round tube. The frame connectors will probably be 2X3. The fender openings are 2 inches wider.

 

I just got my new pictures from yesterday. They started making the frame rails and roll cage. I'm hoping to have the car back by the end of the year.

 

very nice!! I hope to do my car some day! what is the thickness of the steel you are using? Can I get some more pics of the under body of it where the rails connect to the front.
Thanks

 

When they make the frame connectors they will connect to the factory "frame rails" up front near the firewall and the new rear crossmember. This will widen the frame rails at the trans crossmember and alow for true duel exhaust to tuck up to the floor. The new trans crossmember will be custom. I'll get some pics up for ya, it might be a week or two.

 

Who is building your car for you? I bet it's not cheap.

Putting any fiberglass on your car?

 

It's being built by M&M Chassis Craft in Berlin Center, Ohio. I was going to try to do this myself, but I wanted it done right. I also thought if I ever sell the car it would be worth more if it was done by a professional. These guys are not the cheapest but they do great work.

The only fiberglass will be the 4 inch cowl hood.

 

looking real good man. They did a really nice job widening the wheel wells. - Any particular reason they bent the rear rails 90(90 and fairly long radius) and ran them that far up above the 4-link plates? - Not that it will hurt anything with some forward braces, just curious.

 

Thanks. They strech nearly all of the wheel openings on cars they backhalf.

That may be the smallest radius they can make. I think they are leaving some room to run exhaust pipes up and over the rear axle, and so the car will sit down low and level.

 

ahh - yep, with an anti-roll and coil-overs, leaving room for the exhaust would be a good idea. If they're actually using 1-3/4 instead of the more comon 1-5/8, they may not be able to bend as tight of radius.

Like I said, it looks very nice.

 

I recieved some photos of my car. Just some more work on the cage and the rest of the rear frame. I can't wait to get it back home!

 

looking great - keep the pics coming as you get them. I love seeing fab work. Different builders give me new/different ideas.

 

Just got back from the chassis shop. More progress on the cage and rear frame. Fuel cell fits! The wheel tub in pictures is for mock-up only!

 

WOW that is going to be an amazing car when it's all put together...

 

I hope I can get it back on the road next year. With work being slow and no overtime, I might have to slow down and finish it in 2010.

 

That is a very nice lay-out on all the bracing. It's very easy to tell when a fabricator had a solid finished image in mind when he started. - That's gonna be a very nice job when finished.

 

I think he tried to make it look custom, rather than a pre-made "trim to fit" back half kit. It sould be very strong and rigid when done. I could not be happier with the car so far. I hope it doesn't take too much longer.

 

great chronicle on the car keep it coming, looks awesome!

 

Another update. Sheet metal started and rear axle started.

 

 

 

oh my God, this car looks amazing, i wish i could do my same way

 

More pictures. Rear firewall looks great. Fuel cell must be a tight fit. They removed the hatch latch. LOL. I love how the bottom of the car will be smooth. All of the fuel lines, filters, and pump will be above the floor.

 

 

i'm pretty sure you found the right shop for the job. **** that looks good. running your lines in the car is a good idea, the lines are less likely to rust or get damaged.

 

These guys are doing a great job.

I hate seeing fuel lines and the fuel filters hanging from the rear. I think it looks so much cleaner when its all inside. They will be installing a battery tray in the right rear also.

 

Looks great! Since it's "pro-street" guessing you'll be carpeting the interior?

 

Wow dude that thing looks killer!

 

Yes. It's almost a shame to cover it up.
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Thanks. I'll keep the pics coming as I get them.

 

No amount of carpet will ever be capable of hiding the bite that car could deliver.

 

I have some more pictures. Frame connectors are in and the wheels and tires have arrived.

 

 

show me more, show me more!!!!
this is cool

 

very nice build subscribing

 

I'm glad you like it. I will post them up as I get them.

Thank you. This week is the 11th week of the prostreet build. Not too much left to be completed before I get it back.

 

I saw the car in person today. The wheels and tires are mounted and the axle housing is almost fully welded. Battery tray is in. Mock up motor and tranny is in and set to fab the transmission crossmember.

 

 

 

Man this thing is gonna be a beast when its done

 

why no full loop around driveshaft?i assume you wont be getting it certified.car looks sweet.would like to see it when done.

 

very nice thus far. looks like quality work. The d/s loop and the battery tray dont look like they would pass tech tho?

 

It will have a driveshaft loop before its done.

What's wrong with the battery tray?

 

im assuming that its mounting location is in the rear of the car and there will be no firewall in the rear. the battery must be sealed by a container. maybe you were planning on using a moroso box which would work fine providing it fits in the tray. Here is an explaination from the NHRA:

Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.

 

Take a look at this picture again. There is a firewall. It will seal when the hatch is closed. The battery is behind the right tub, next to the fuel cell. I was told it would be legal to race.

 

ah i see, that would be considered a firewall. The Moroso box is sealed and has a vent tube for gases to vent out of the cab. If they are worried about gases they may require a seal (weatherstripping maybe) between the wall and the back hatch glass, which would be no prob i imagine. Then again that maybe good enough as it is. sorry to throw up a false flag bud. didnt see that pic i guess. Keep em coming, awesome build thus far!

 

There is some weatherstripping that will seal the panel to the hatch. They haven't got around to putting it on yet. I'll keep the pictures coming! I'm glad you like it!

 

Here are some pictures of the rear axle fully welded. The back brace is on and it looks like he boxed in the 4-link brackets. I get to pick up my car on Saturday!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm sure that I'll have more pictures up this weekend with the car on the ground!