Subframes
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 35
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From: Superior WI
Car: 1989 Pontiac Firebird FORMULA
Engine: Rebuilt Chevy 350 in 2007
Transmission: 5 Speed Borg
Subframes
what subframes should i get bolt on or weld on subframes on my 89 bird and i heard if you go the bolt on rout you have to mess with your rear end.
Re: Subframes
We have weld in SFC available for your 89, exhaust inside frame rails and outside framerails.
Inside - For aftermarket headers and exhaust systems.

Outside - For OEM exhaust manifolds and OEM exhaust systems.
As far as the bolt on SFCs and messing with the rear end, dont know about that.
Inside - For aftermarket headers and exhaust systems.

Outside - For OEM exhaust manifolds and OEM exhaust systems.
As far as the bolt on SFCs and messing with the rear end, dont know about that.
Last edited by BMR Sales; Mar 4, 2009 at 09:50 AM.
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From: Highwood, IL
Car: 1983 trans am
Engine: Vortec 350 w/ a comp cam
Transmission: B&Mth350 2800holeshot
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 3.23's
Re: Subframes
i have jegster bolt ins that were bolted in and then welded in. only thing u gotta do with the rear end is put a longer bolt in the LCA where it bolts to the body. pretty easy biggest pia was clearing the exhaust to get em in and the drilling
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,422
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From: alliance, ohio
Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: Subframes
I AGREE i have the jegsters to, easy to install, and getting welded in this spring. i like em
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From: Minnesota
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 370 LSX, LS3 Top End
Transmission: Built T-56
Axle/Gears: 9" Aluminum Center 3.89's
Re: Subframes
I vote for UMI's, Very easy install, clears exhaust decently, and for only $200.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 808
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From: Ft Wayne, IN
Car: 2003 F-150
Engine: 4.6L Modular V8
Transmission: 4R70W
Axle/Gears: Ford 8.8"/3.55 LSD
Re: Subframes
Seeing as how this is a SFC thread, I'm curious as to which SFC's are the best and allow the option to either use stock style exhaust or duals?
Heres the one Summit has for sale:
Bolt On
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294736044
Weld On
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294736034
Heres the one Summit has for sale:
Bolt On
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294736044
Weld On
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294736034
Supreme Member
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From: Minnesota
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 370 LSX, LS3 Top End
Transmission: Built T-56
Axle/Gears: 9" Aluminum Center 3.89's
Re: Subframes
With the UMIs you can run stock y-pipe and duals. The ones from summit are way overpriced IMO.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,265
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Subframes
Weld in is always best.
Bolt in is just a convenience but from flexing and stress, bolts can become loose and holes can become elongated. That's why most bolt in SFC are also welded in when installed or shortly after.
Bolt in is just a convenience but from flexing and stress, bolts can become loose and holes can become elongated. That's why most bolt in SFC are also welded in when installed or shortly after.
Re: Subframes
Thanks for the good comments we really appreciate it! We do carry a weld on sub frame connector. Below is a link to show you what I am explaining.
http://umiperformance.com/images/2400a.jpg
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
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From: sunny so cal.
Car: 1990
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: Subframes
I was watching one of those speed shop programs where they were talking about subframe connectors. They did give one suggestion which I'm going to pass on. Jack your car up and put it on 4 independent jack stands. This allows the weight of the engine and the rear end to move the car back into its original position, rather than having it flexed down in the center, which older cars tend to do. If you use a hoist there is a chance that the car will not stretch out properly, which will defeat one of the purposes of putting in the subframe connectors. You might also find that all of those seams are once again even.
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From: Minnesota
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 370 LSX, LS3 Top End
Transmission: Built T-56
Axle/Gears: 9" Aluminum Center 3.89's
Re: Subframes
WHAT!?!?! Everyone always says to have your suspension loaded on all 4 tires.
Re: Subframes
I was watching one of those speed shop programs where they were talking about subframe connectors. They did give one suggestion which I'm going to pass on. Jack your car up and put it on 4 independent jack stands. This allows the weight of the engine and the rear end to move the car back into its original position, rather than having it flexed down in the center, which older cars tend to do. If you use a hoist there is a chance that the car will not stretch out properly, which will defeat one of the purposes of putting in the subframe connectors. You might also find that all of those seams are once again even.
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,767
Likes: 63
From: Trumbull CT
Car: 87 TA clone
Engine: 70/70 Turbo 5.3 LS
Transmission: bullet proof 2004R
Axle/Gears: ford 8.8, 3.55 gears
Re: Subframes
does make sense. when i did mine i had it up on jackstands. could be something like a preload.
if the car is sagging then its not at its original state. welding in subframes when the car is sagging will hold the car in that state. so it could be bad to do that. could also be bad to have the car unibody unloaded when the car isnt sagging and then have it stuck like that when the SFC are welded in.
i just recently installed a 4pt roll bar with trans tunnel bars so its like a 6pt. Competition engineering said to support the car on the frame rails with 4 jack stands making sure the car is even using a level. said not to have it on the wheels. i would think u would have to follow the same rules with subframes. CEE stated that if the car is sagging or not level/even the car will be stuck like that when the roll bar is installed.
if the car is sagging then its not at its original state. welding in subframes when the car is sagging will hold the car in that state. so it could be bad to do that. could also be bad to have the car unibody unloaded when the car isnt sagging and then have it stuck like that when the SFC are welded in.
i just recently installed a 4pt roll bar with trans tunnel bars so its like a 6pt. Competition engineering said to support the car on the frame rails with 4 jack stands making sure the car is even using a level. said not to have it on the wheels. i would think u would have to follow the same rules with subframes. CEE stated that if the car is sagging or not level/even the car will be stuck like that when the roll bar is installed.
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 330
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From: Melbourne Australia
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: Ls1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Re: Subframes
I was watching one of those speed shop programs where they were talking about subframe connectors. They did give one suggestion which I'm going to pass on. Jack your car up and put it on 4 independent jack stands. This allows the weight of the engine and the rear end to move the car back into its original position, rather than having it flexed down in the center, which older cars tend to do. If you use a hoist there is a chance that the car will not stretch out properly, which will defeat one of the purposes of putting in the subframe connectors. You might also find that all of those seams are once again even.
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