Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Subframes

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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 12:21 PM
  #1  
rattbird1989's Avatar
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From: Superior WI
Car: 1989 Pontiac Firebird FORMULA
Engine: Rebuilt Chevy 350 in 2007
Transmission: 5 Speed Borg
Subframes

what subframes should i get bolt on or weld on subframes on my 89 bird and i heard if you go the bolt on rout you have to mess with your rear end.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 12:40 PM
  #2  
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Re: Subframes

We have weld in SFC available for your 89, exhaust inside frame rails and outside framerails.

Inside - For aftermarket headers and exhaust systems.


Outside - For OEM exhaust manifolds and OEM exhaust systems.


As far as the bolt on SFCs and messing with the rear end, dont know about that.

Last edited by BMR Sales; Mar 4, 2009 at 09:50 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 12:55 PM
  #3  
MaNiAk86's Avatar
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From: Highwood, IL
Car: 1983 trans am
Engine: Vortec 350 w/ a comp cam
Transmission: B&Mth350 2800holeshot
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 3.23's
Re: Subframes

i have jegster bolt ins that were bolted in and then welded in. only thing u gotta do with the rear end is put a longer bolt in the LCA where it bolts to the body. pretty easy biggest pia was clearing the exhaust to get em in and the drilling
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 01:03 PM
  #4  
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From: alliance, ohio
Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: Subframes

I AGREE i have the jegsters to, easy to install, and getting welded in this spring. i like em
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 03:27 PM
  #5  
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From: Minnesota
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 370 LSX, LS3 Top End
Transmission: Built T-56
Axle/Gears: 9" Aluminum Center 3.89's
Re: Subframes

I vote for UMI's, Very easy install, clears exhaust decently, and for only $200.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 07:08 PM
  #6  
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From: Ft Wayne, IN
Car: 2003 F-150
Engine: 4.6L Modular V8
Transmission: 4R70W
Axle/Gears: Ford 8.8"/3.55 LSD
Re: Subframes

Seeing as how this is a SFC thread, I'm curious as to which SFC's are the best and allow the option to either use stock style exhaust or duals?

Heres the one Summit has for sale:

Bolt On
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294736044

Weld On
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294736034
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 08:55 PM
  #7  
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From: Minnesota
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 370 LSX, LS3 Top End
Transmission: Built T-56
Axle/Gears: 9" Aluminum Center 3.89's
Re: Subframes

With the UMIs you can run stock y-pipe and duals. The ones from summit are way overpriced IMO.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 09:00 PM
  #8  
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
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Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Subframes

Weld in is always best.

Bolt in is just a convenience but from flexing and stress, bolts can become loose and holes can become elongated. That's why most bolt in SFC are also welded in when installed or shortly after.
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 09:47 AM
  #9  
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Re: Subframes

Originally Posted by 89ROC-Z
With the UMIs you can run stock y-pipe and duals. The ones from summit are way overpriced IMO.
Hello
Thanks for the good comments we really appreciate it! We do carry a weld on sub frame connector. Below is a link to show you what I am explaining.

http://umiperformance.com/images/2400a.jpg

If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 03:47 PM
  #10  
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Re: Subframes

I was watching one of those speed shop programs where they were talking about subframe connectors. They did give one suggestion which I'm going to pass on. Jack your car up and put it on 4 independent jack stands. This allows the weight of the engine and the rear end to move the car back into its original position, rather than having it flexed down in the center, which older cars tend to do. If you use a hoist there is a chance that the car will not stretch out properly, which will defeat one of the purposes of putting in the subframe connectors. You might also find that all of those seams are once again even.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 04:10 PM
  #11  
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From: Minnesota
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 370 LSX, LS3 Top End
Transmission: Built T-56
Axle/Gears: 9" Aluminum Center 3.89's
Re: Subframes

WHAT!?!?! Everyone always says to have your suspension loaded on all 4 tires.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 04:58 PM
  #12  
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Re: Subframes

Originally Posted by tony_cogliandro
I was watching one of those speed shop programs where they were talking about subframe connectors. They did give one suggestion which I'm going to pass on. Jack your car up and put it on 4 independent jack stands. This allows the weight of the engine and the rear end to move the car back into its original position, rather than having it flexed down in the center, which older cars tend to do. If you use a hoist there is a chance that the car will not stretch out properly, which will defeat one of the purposes of putting in the subframe connectors. You might also find that all of those seams are once again even.
I think I saw the same show. They showed the door gap on the car and it was thin up top and big on the bottom. They jacked the car up and put the chassis on 4 jack stands taking all the load off the suspension letting the body flex back. Welded the subframes in and let the car back down and the door gaps where perfect top to bottom and the doors shut without hitting the door sills.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 03:09 AM
  #13  
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Re: Subframes

does make sense. when i did mine i had it up on jackstands. could be something like a preload.

if the car is sagging then its not at its original state. welding in subframes when the car is sagging will hold the car in that state. so it could be bad to do that. could also be bad to have the car unibody unloaded when the car isnt sagging and then have it stuck like that when the SFC are welded in.

i just recently installed a 4pt roll bar with trans tunnel bars so its like a 6pt. Competition engineering said to support the car on the frame rails with 4 jack stands making sure the car is even using a level. said not to have it on the wheels. i would think u would have to follow the same rules with subframes. CEE stated that if the car is sagging or not level/even the car will be stuck like that when the roll bar is installed.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 07:20 PM
  #14  
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From: Melbourne Australia
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: Ls1
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Re: Subframes

Originally Posted by tony_cogliandro
I was watching one of those speed shop programs where they were talking about subframe connectors. They did give one suggestion which I'm going to pass on. Jack your car up and put it on 4 independent jack stands. This allows the weight of the engine and the rear end to move the car back into its original position, rather than having it flexed down in the center, which older cars tend to do. If you use a hoist there is a chance that the car will not stretch out properly, which will defeat one of the purposes of putting in the subframe connectors. You might also find that all of those seams are once again even.
Interesting, I hadn't thought about that. Where did they postion the stands? It would be hard to get them in a place that stops the sag and doesn't get in the way when you are installing the SFCs. Would this really be a better way? Everyone else has always said that SFCs need to be installed with the weight on the tyres
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