Anyone ever done this before? I'm switching to coilovers soon, and am wondering where all I should reinforce. I'm thinking at least the seam that goes around the upper strut mount piece for sure, since it's only spot welded. I also plan to get a STB to help spread the load from the upper fenderwells.

 

Spohns coil-over kit comes with a plate that sandwiches under the strut tower to reinforce the sheet metal around the strut mount. After that, a STB would be a good idea. I dont think welding will prove anything, but if wont hurt either.

 

This is the kit I ordered, it also comes with a plate that goes on the bottom side of the strut tower:
http://americanracecomponents.com/procoiloverkit.html

I'm still thinking of welding the strut towers though, just for added safety. I attached a pic of where I'm planning weld, but I'm not sure if I should do one continuous weld, or several short welds. I've read before that short welds with gaps between them are better, since they still let the sheet metal flex a little. Any ideas?

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...rut-tower.html

thats what i did to my strut towers. seen it done on some race car 3rd gens. i tigd it all the way around.

i did short welds prob and inch or so then then stopped and went to the other side and then did it again over and over. went around both sides. i will also be making my own STB.

there is pros and cons between welding is really just replacing the strut tower if needed. welding allthe way around would make the difficult. ive seen it done before. it really does reinforce the strut tower caps. any reinforcing done to these cars is always a plus. the spot welds on the towers are sufficent untill added stress is added to the strut towers. i would think it would help in strength.

 

You know, for that money, I'd be willing to give front coil-overs a chance. I've heard they ride nicer, and you may save some weight from the smaller springs (and then going to tubular a-arms).
Let us know how they look and go in when you install them. I'm guessing they just use standard 2.5" OD springs? I'd see them being easier to adjust than the stock location weight jacks.

 

that American race setup must use a 10" spring, with the car in a lowered position you will most likely have issues with the strut bottom out of the reinforcement plate and damaging the inner/outer fenders. Spohns design mounts the top of the spring up inside the strut mount, giving you and extra 2" of travel so the odds of bottoming out are pretty much non existent.

and the price seems about the same as Spohns, except that spohns come wit a nice set of new strut mounts as well, Spohn also includes torrington bearing for the top and bottom of the spring so that the spring will rotate easier when you turn.

As for adjusting coil-overs, they are pretty easy, but you have to jack up the car and removing the wheel will make this easier. I am still thinking about swapping my coil-overs out for weight jacks so i can run larger tires up front.

I dont think i like that american race setup much.

 

I was thinking about this morning. I was looking at the pictures last night then remembered if my caster was too far back that the top of the strut hit the bottom of the strut tower. I don't know if I'd want to run those or not with that taken into consideration.

 

Yeah, I am also concerned about the struts bottoming out too, but I'll just have to see how it goes. The strut tube should be able to go up through the reinforcement plate, past the top of the spring though, so I don't think it will be an issue. I am getting a pair of prototype strut mounts similar to spohns with the setup. I don't plan to lower the car much, maybe an inch or so. I do also plan to add my own torrington bearings on the spring ends - the bearings can be bought for a few bucks each. I'm pretty sure they're just standard 2.5" ID springs, but I will find out for sure next week when the parts are ready.

 

I welded ALL the seams on my car. I'm running Spohn coilovers AND Racecraft dropped spindles. I haven't really put it on the road (it's been sitting for almost 2 years since I did it all...haven't had time to finish it), but I'm sure it will be plenty strong.

Really, you're only supposed to stitch weld the seams...you run the risk of deformation with a full bead.

 

Don't col-overs limit the width of front tire you can run?

Great for a drag car running skinnies, but very practical for a street car running wider tires (or even stock 245s)?

 

Thats what i'd like to find out too cause I want to run 275's up front and 315's in the back. So not sure if I can run coil overs or not.

 

That's also what I have heard, I'm not sure whether or not I will stitch weld or fully weld though.

They will take up slightly more space than just the strut alone, reducing the available backspacing width. By looking at the pictures though, it looks to take up around an inch or so, which I am okay with.

 

Maybe if you went really big. I'm running 275s out front and 295s out back...room to spare on both ends.

 

you can fit a 275 on the front with coil-overs. A guy here runs them, i think his screen name is "Kat"?

Im currently running 18x8's and 245/40/18s with coilovers and the wheels are tucked in the fender nicely, i can still go in another inch without issues.

Oh, and do you people realize that the top of the strut tower is just another piece of metal welded on top of the inner fender itself? The inner fender does not have a large opening at the top and then another piece spot welded over the hole. That upper piece cant separate form the inner fender because of pressure from the underside.
follow me?
I dont see what welding will do?