I received my new chrome moly all powder coated silver,

K-member
A-arms
sway bars
front end rebuild kit.

I ordered it all last friday, fast service 7 days.

I'm planning on taking out the old parts this weekend and installing the new next weekend. I'll post pics.

Eric

 

Ohh looks pretty! Better throw up some install pics!

 

looks intense.

 

OOOUUUUCCCHHHH!!!
My wallet hurts for you.

 

Well if your going to do it, why not go all the way. Next is the Strange 60 and Baer 6P system.

Eric

 

i am super jealous.
put up plenty of pics.
i want to see the k member especially, and the clearance for headers

 

Looks good!! Def post some pics after the install.

 

As soon as i saw the pics my wallet ran away and hid lol.

Looks good. Aren't those baer 6 pot brakes almost $4,000 alone?

 

Not sure what the brakes cost, I'll find out this week when I call them, will post the price.

Eric

 

Those tubular K-members have always scared me. I don't see how they could be remotely as strong as the stock piece, although I haven't examined them in person at all so I'm just speculating.

 

I dont see how the factory one is still in anyones car. I just got my BMR front end stuff about 2 weeks ago..and its amazing! Tubular is alot stronger than stamped metal and lighter..

 

yep, the factory stuff is only stamped, its not solid metal or anything.
the part that makes it look strong is how big it is.
i saw one a while ago on here that had two bars under the engine (in front of the oil pan) and it looked super beefy.
if i was going to get one, that'd be it.

also, jacking up the front is safer with a tubular bar than a flat piece of metal under the engine.

 

Have you guys saying the stock k-member is "just stamped steel" actually looked at your stock piece? haha.

Lighter..Ill give that to you. But Im still not convinced a tubular unit is stronger by any leaps and bounds. The stock k-member is nothing short of pure beef. Thats part of why its so heavy. Its thick, close welded, and has proven itself for over 25 years. The part that makes it look strong is...well its strong! And where is there a flat piece of metal under the engine? I wouldn't jack up the entire front of a car on the bottom of a tubular k-member... I wouldnt want to find out how much deflection it all has while the car is teetering on the jack pad.

Now...that said. I wouldnt mind buying a tubular unit. I just want them to be around for a couple more years on cars making some good power and being wrung out in the corners before I take that step. Just want to clear the air about why not everyone hasnt ditched their stock unit.

Dont wanna argue...just wanted to defend the general alittle. There isnt a whole lot of "junk" on these cars

J.

 

I think Ill be waiting to hear how the road race versions hold up for the reason I plan to DRIFT my camaro for what it's worth (damn limit of 45* steering angle) doesn't allow for much DRIFT espec. since 240's and corolla's are hitting 60-70* angles.

Anyway since I feel I won't be as hard on my car as many of these road race drivers on TGO will, this should prove to be a good test on if it will last under my car...which I have no doubt it will and under the RR's of TGO as well.

P.S. I like drive on lifts or 4 post lifts, as for jacking on the tubular k-member, I wont be doing that either, just to keep it nice mainly.

 

You can most definatly piece together a 6 pot brake system for less that $4000. There is a board member with 6/4 piston on 13/12s (I think that's the rotor size) and I think he has $2000 give or take in all his.

The stock piece seems alot stronger than the tubulars. It may be stamped steel, but the welds are the weak points on the tubulars, not the actual tubes. I would also be afraid of jacking on the main lower tube. It would have alot less deflection strength than the stock piece, not to mention less surface area. The stock piece also flexes some from what I've heard. The aftermarket ones don't, and that's not good for shock absortion from hitting things in the road. I want to go with one at some point, but I don't know of any that I'd feel as comfortable with as I do the stock one for what I do yet.

 

Well I got the new k-member in all by myself. I figured I would go ahead and change my steering box while everything was out to, so much easier. The k-member went in with no problems, I also changed my motor mounts to poly too (see in pics). But most of all, I'm so glad I bought that engine support from harbor freight, it worked perfect and my my job very easy. I going to put the rest of the suspension on through out the week into next week end.

So here some pics.

 

more pics

 

even more pics

 

Last pics for now

 

Isnt that engine support bar awesome?!?! Mine paid for itself this weekend while doing k-member work. That thing is WELL worth the $50...

J.

 

I know this thread is a little old but I brought the same engine support bar. I am planning to do the same thing of replacing my k-member whils the engint is still in the car. I also have to replace my oil pan at the same time.

My question is where did you bolt or wrap the chain around on the sides of the engine to support it?

 

I put the drivers side on Alternater/header bolt and the passengers side I put it on the last manifold bolt. It was hard to find places, ut these worked for me. If you have anymore question let me know.

Eric

 

ok thanks

 

I plan on doing this same modification in the near future. Im glad you chose silver powdercoating because I felt I needed to see that color before I made a decision. It's perfect. I have one question though. How did you option your K member out? Brace mounts? KMember braces? etc..

 

I think Spohn doesn't offer silver, but not sure, but its in chrome moly, my car came with the braces so I just had the mount added. Everything in my suspension from them I paid to get the chrome moly. I'm not sure about the coil over, so I stayed with the coil springs set-up. The a-arms(chrome moly) have the del sphere rod end. The sway bar set are also chrome moly too.

Eric

 

halfway between dumfries and manassas