I just got new shocks all around. it rides alot better, but when my rear end hits theres a "clonk" kinda sound. A friend told me a panhand bar would fix it,

or could it maybe be my trunk, because my trunk motors blown. But i adjusted the gears so its always latched tight.

any advice?

 

You already have one.

JamesC

 

I know, but i meant a new one.
or maybe bushings are gone?

 

well, id replace all the bushings.. even if it dont fix your problem, it certainly cant hurt if you replace them. hirst check and see if they even need replaced. if theyre dry and have cracks in them then they need replaced.

 

Just for education its a Panhard Rod/Bar.(I'm an *** like that) You should be able to pry on all the components with a healthy screwdriver or small prybar to look for loose/worn bushings or even loose bolts. Have a friend wiggle the car side to side and looks for stuff moving that's not supposed to be moving.

 

The manual calls it a track bar.

JamesC

 

I was schooled that the front rod (Jeep Cherokee/Commanchee) is a Track rod and the rear bar is the Panhard rod....but I'm not arguing the terminology with anyone...just that one name.

 

Truth be told, nearly everyone calls it a panhard.

JamesC

 

I just call it that thingy in the back .......

anyways...have a friend....like said above....push car side to side and up and down while your under it looking for what ever it is.......

 

Technically speaking it is a "Rear suspension lateral locater".

The type being used in these cars is a Panhard rod (there are many types of lateral locaters- i.e. mumford link, watts link, trangular upper 3rd link, etc).

The locater link is used to set the tracking of the rear tires to match the front tires (hence "track bar"). It is very important to have the rear tires run in direct line with the fronts tires. You do not want them outside the forward motion footprints of the front tires or the car will loosen in corners. And then of course the visa versa, if the rear tires track width is smaller than the fronts the rear tire footprints will be inside the fronts on each side and th ecar will tighten in cornering.

To give an critical example- in the circle track racing series I am involved in, the rules allow me a front track width of 70" and a rear track width of 69". NOW, I use "all" of this width to my advantage for leverage purposes, BUT, since we turn only left turns (You know, like JayJay says," 'nother left turn") the inside front tire is 1" out from the left rear tire and the ALL INPORT OUTSIDE TIRES (right side tires) are in DIRECT LINE OF EACHOTHER IN FOOTPRINT TRACKS for balance of the tire path so no scrubing takes place when set on edge of them. It is a bandaid fix (in other words- a poor adjustment tool) to have to ever move the outside track off its direct footprint to tighten or loosen the cars handling characteristics. You always want a car to track pefectly on the outside tire edges through any corner. If it does not, then use wheel spacers to corect it and you will most likely correct most of your oversteer problem coming off a corner, and correct most of your understeer problem going into a corner under braking.

Dean

ps-There wil be alot of you running out measuring track with on the front and rear of your cars seeing how those wide rear aftermarket tires that stick out you wheelwells have adversely hurt your handling even though the ewider tread gave you grip. Get them under there and the track in line and you would really notice a better handling car. Its why I ran the factory 8" IROC rims on my car (all "rear" wheels ) and I custom machined my front track width with my brake package and hubs to match the 5/8" wheel spacers I used out back with the MOSER drilled flange axles I had custom 1/2" ARP studs machined into them with 3" lengths. Just another little setup tool of importance showing why my can handled so well- its th whole package! and then again comes my favorite qute," Its not just what you bolt under there, its also how you set it."