converting the stock chassis to full frame using channel steel, tricky? how much trouble am i looking at? and how much work for that matter? lol

 

you mean kinda like sub frame connectors? what do you need a full frame for?

 

I know that there are some guys that have done it on the vega and monza bodies but I don't know of many people doing it with the f-body cars since they are alot stronger.

They would use 2x4 steel and cut the floor boards to let it go straight through and then weld it into the subframes and the floor board then attaching a rollcage to the beams. That type of reinforcement is needed in the old H body cars because they would twist the body with as little as 500hp and break the windsheild. I guess you could consider that like a full frame because it connects the front and rear frame and everything inbetween but that is alot of work and the prep is extensive and you have to get the body checked at a body shop to make sure its not already crooked.

 

my dad had an f-body trans am and the frame couldnt hold up to 300 horses. almost twisted the car in half. broke it pretty much.

 

What year? Musta been rusty. The stock TTAs came stock with 301 horses, on the dyno.

 

sounds like subframe connectors to me. get a set, and save yourself ALOT of trouble

 

the car must have had some sever structural damage beforehand. I ran my car without subframe connectors for a while with a little over 500 horsepower and torque with no issues, and the car has t-tops.

Buy a good set of weld in subframe connectors and you will be good. No need to overbuild something with channel iron of all things, just adding weight for no reason.

 

I installed SFC the first week I owned the car and before I took it to the track. A year later I put in a 6 point roll bar. I now have a full cage and still have the original SFC installed.

 

alright these guys beat me to my suggestion. buy or build yourself subframe connectors. if you want to build them, run the tubing behind the rocker panel like the ones you can buy do. check out the link, there are tons of pictures of them installed to give you an idea of what we're all talking about. http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...-Top-Cars.html

 

yea, thanks guys, subframe connectors is what i meant, oh well. im more into engines than anything else, but i guess i gotta learn sometime right? guess im gonna be on the forums for awhile, lol

 

Don't ever feel embarrassed,...that's why we join these forums,..to share ideas, watch,read, and learn what we don't know so we CAN! build our dream cars. Keep reading and posting, and have fun. good luck on your project.

 

There's no such thing as a stupid question but there can always be stupid answers.

Here's your sign

 

You said it boss!...LOL...here's a stupid question,..i'm working on my signature,..how /where do i go to edit the fonts?

 

I was just kidding. What is your opinion of installing frame connectors to a 24 year old street machine? I'm planning a complete tear down/rebuild. I figure I'll install them, i've just noticed the same problem over and over again with people, is the catalytic convertor bypass issue/connector assembly strength on that end if you modify???

 

+1 I couldn't agree more.

 

Ed quay has rail kits for the 82-92 f bodies http://www.edquay.com/

 

I know this is kind of beating the horse, but I need some advice from the rest of the F body community. To cover the basics, a gentleman came to me a few years ago to build home a 454 worth about 550 on the dyno. Added Spohn everything to an '89 Z28. Panhard, subframe connectors ( weld in), tube front everything with coil over conversion, everything. The need for advice here comes from the fact that he had another shop fit two 60 something millimeter turbochargers with 9 pounds each. He's driven the car gently since because of his body flexing. What's the best option for stiffening the chassis up? Mind, this car does have a 6 point cage. I've never had an issue like this with cars or engines that I have built, seeing as most are NA below 600 HP