If you have tried the following adjustment of the box, what's your opinion of part 1?

http://www.monte-list.nu/tech/boxmesh.shtml

JamesC

 

I've heard of the adjustment but never heard how it's actualy done.
I don't know what it does-change pump pressure to the box?
I have a lazy strng wheel & was thinking of going manual.
Good question James!! Subscribed!!!

 

A friend of mine did it to their camaro. He is a certified mechanic. The results must have been good because he told another friend of mine how to do it. I think i'm going to try it tomorrow, maybe.

 

i have done it many times on factory boxes and my new AGR box, the over center adjustment is where all the slop is, the way i found works best is to have the wheels pointing straight ahead loosen the 5/8 nut, about 3 turns, then hold it in place with a wrench while i tighten the allen key untill it just starts to get snug, then back it off about 1/8 turn, if the sterring has no slop but sticks over center back of alittle more if it still has slop, go a little more, if you back it off a full 90 degrees it will stil have slop in it, the car doesn't need to be lifted off the ground,

 

My error JamesC- I thought this was adjusting pump pressure but after reading part 2 I see preload is being applied.
Educational though.

 

I agree with part 1 of the procedure. This adjusts the thrust play in the bearings.

Part 2 could be better. The best (proper) way to do this is with the box off the car and drained of fluid. Then using a small beam or direct reading in/lb torque wrench. Back off the worm bearing adjustment (on top of box). Then measure the rotating torque through the center.

Add 6 - 10 in/lb to that measurement and adjust the worm bearing screw to obtain the new value. Tighten lock nut (36 ft/lb).

The highest torque reading will be through the center, this is where to read and adjust the for the proper value.

Having done just the worm bearing adjustment. Then doing the thrust and worm bearing adjustment, the thrust adjustment does make a difference.

If you have a bench vise there is a fin on the bottom of the box for mounting it. Makes it a whole bunch easier to work on.

RBob.

 

Did part 1 today. Steering is more responsive and less play than before that's for sure. My front end needs work though.

 

How many turns did you guys tighten it?

I tried this a few weeks ago and found a couple of turns didn't make it snug. I got nervous and stopped.

 

hey JamesC , i have done part 1 many times on many makes of cars . it is good . i have found that some times i have to "fine tune several times" to get it where "I" like it . good luck , cheers .

 

Turn the 5/8's wrench enough to where you can turn the allen...it really doesn't matter. Turn the allen till you can't turn it anymore....then turn it 1/4 counter clockwise.....then turn the wrench as tight as you can....that's what I did and it helped tremendously. If that doesn't help, you may need a new box or new steering components.

 

I was under the impression the allen shouldn't turn very much until it gets tight. I guess I'll try it again turning until it gets tight this time. Thanks.

 

After replacing the center link and idler arm (tie rods and ball joints had already been replaced), having an alignment--where the boys ran the car into the rack and scarred up the front facia--after tightening my Grant wheel and finally experimenting with the above adjustment, the front end feels tight and new. I'm quite pleased.

Oh, the alignment shop is paying for the body work. I pick the car up today sometime.

JamesC