Pics of the driver and passenger side wheels (i knew this question would come up

 

you swap wheels yet?

 

According to my eyeball, Mark 1, the hubs/rotors are spaced as evenly as can be. Depth of thread engagement on the studs, stud length and hub snout length to outer wheel wheel.

From the strut and strut bolts to the inside face of the rotor. It all looks to be even.

Two quick checks that can be done:

Drop a plumb-bob (a string with a heavy nut will work), over the wheel well lip on the outside of the body. Then measure from the string to the face of the rotor or hub. If using the rotor seat it by hand for a good measurement.

Do both sides and compare.


Then flop the wheels/tire over so that they face down. Place something straight across the tire. Then measure from it down to the face that seats on the hub/rotor (basic offset measurement).

Do both sides and compare.

One of those two comparisons will have to be different. Which will point to the pieces that need to be further checked.

RBob.

 

MPI: No I have not swapped wheels left and right yet but aren't they the same on both sides??

Rbob: Not sure what a plumb-bob is but i can definitely tie a string to a heavy nut... I'm sorry I am not understanding what I have to do here.. From what I understand: I have the car on the lift, I take the wheel off, and then I take the string and hang it off the wheel lip (outer part of fender) and then I measure from where? How far the string is from the outer face of the rotor? And if the rotors are equal on both sides, then I have to dig deeper, such as measure from the hubs, then spindles, then control arms, and then k-member (working back in that order)? I wasn't sure about the wheel measuring part, is this to see if the left and right sides are the same?

(I haven't come to this thread in awhile because there was a guy who said he thought the k-member was adjustable and it could be moved left and right but it turns out it is not so i'm back at square 1, sorta... I still haven't heard back from Ed Miller after asking him about the parts he sold me that went with the LS1 brake kit, but I know he's busy so I'm hoping he hits me up soon about it.. Other than that, I will try what RBOB suggested with the string trick..)

Thanks for the help i really hope i can figure this out!

 

With the car on the lift and level, the string (plumb-bob) will provide a reference point. Being that the top is at the fender lip, it will basically extend that point all the way down the length of the string.

Then with the wheel/tire off the car, put some lug nuts back on to hold the rotor flush against the hub.

Then measure from the rotor face at the hub to the string.

Do this on both sides and compare the measurements. If they are the same (within say an 1/8"), then the problem is with the wheels.

If the two measurements are not the same, say off by a half-inch or more, then there is an issue with the hub, rotor, or spindle location.

At this point you will need to continue to remove pieces one at a time and measure from the string to each new location. Such as remove rotors and measure from string to hub face.

If still off, then remove hubs and measure from bearing surface inner face on spindle to string. And so on.

You can use some masking tape to hold the string in place. Just 'un-sticky' it some by sticking it to some else first. Don't won't to pull any paint off the car when the tape is removed.

RBob.

 

Here's a really stupid question. Just from my brain storming. Have you checked to make sure the fenders are both the same, and both adjusted similarily??

You've been looking for heavy accident damage to the chassis. But what about light accident damage that would have required a fender replacement, or light chassis pulling? Aftermarket fenders are known for fitting somewhat crappy.

I tried to look at your video, and I could swear I saw some differences in the way the lip looks, and the way the fender below the body "crease" is angled. But Im sure it was just the video.

Just something I was thinking about. I didnt check your other thread..so maybe someone else mentioned it.

Hope you get it sorted out! I fought with this issue on my old S10 Blazer, and I know it can be frustrating. Good luck!

J.

 

Ghettocruiser: You were right on. The car had been 'lightly damaged' sometime in its life but was repaired very well (driver's fender, upper front radiator bar, part of the front clip, have all been repaired/replaced it seems.) Anyways, with a decent alignment and some fender pulling, it looks alright now. Atleast it's not sticking out like it was before, now you have to look close and pay attention to see the diff.

 

I can't believe I never saw this thread. I have the same problem. My driver side sticks out a little more than my passenger. My car is very low, so it is very noticeable. I haven't looked into my problem yet (although I suspect my kmember needs to be shifted a little since it's new).

I'm glad you found out your problem. I now have some good info to check on mine.