Broken at the A-Arm
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: TN
Car: 92 RS
Engine: 305 TBI Stock
Transmission: Auto
Broken at the A-Arm
Got a question for you guys...
I bought a really nice looking 92 RS Heritage Edition (so I thought)
The car was bought as kinda a father son project, he is 13 and i'm trying to teach him about cars. We pulled the 160,000+ 305 to put in a fresh 350 and convert it to a stick instead of an auto (got 3 years till he can drive thank god).
Here is my problem, after getting under its skin I found out it has been wrecked pretty bad in the front drivers corner. After looking at the sub-frame where the A-arm bolts to it, it has a crack almost all the way around the bracket. Would you guys recommend welding it or replacing the sub frame?
thanx
I bought a really nice looking 92 RS Heritage Edition (so I thought)
The car was bought as kinda a father son project, he is 13 and i'm trying to teach him about cars. We pulled the 160,000+ 305 to put in a fresh 350 and convert it to a stick instead of an auto (got 3 years till he can drive thank god).
Here is my problem, after getting under its skin I found out it has been wrecked pretty bad in the front drivers corner. After looking at the sub-frame where the A-arm bolts to it, it has a crack almost all the way around the bracket. Would you guys recommend welding it or replacing the sub frame?
thanx
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: Des Moines, IA
Car: 90 Formula WS6, 86 Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 TBI, 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4w/vette servos
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open, 3.42 Open
Re: Broken at the A-Arm
Well, is it broken at the rear or front mount? If it's at the front then it mounts to the k-member and you can replace it with an aftermarket one and shave 60lbs I think. If it's the rear mount then in all honesty your screwed. Subframes on these cars aren't like the older ones, unless you REALLY know what your doing it's almost impossible to take them out. A pic would help, you could probably weld it, if not you could cut the piece out and replace it with one from a donor car, but you might have alignment issues if you do so.
Good luck
Alex
Good luck
Alex
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
From: Columbus Ohio
Car: 91 Z28,64ImpalaSS4094spd,67 Galaxy
Engine: Dart 415Profiler hd,cmprlrs,Hlly750
Transmission: Built 700R4, 3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:89 Moser 9"
Re: Broken at the A-Arm
Let's see a pic, sectioning in a piece is not that hard, welding/and bracing it could be an option? Alignment issues could arise if not done properly..Need a pic...
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 51
From: Enschede, Netherlands
Car: 82 TA 87 IZ L98 88 IZ LB9 88 IZ L98
Engine: 5.7TBI 5,7TPI 5.0TPI, 5,7TPI
Transmission: T5, 700R4, T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.27, 3.45, 3.27
Re: Broken at the A-Arm
Well, is it broken at the rear or front mount? If it's at the front then it mounts to the k-member and you can replace it with an aftermarket one and shave 60lbs I think. If it's the rear mount then in all honesty your screwed. Subframes on these cars aren't like the older ones, unless you REALLY know what your doing it's almost impossible to take them out. A pic would help, you could probably weld it, if not you could cut the piece out and replace it with one from a donor car, but you might have alignment issues if you do so.
Good luck
Alex
Good luck
Alex
What are you talking about? Both A arm mounts are on the subframe:
The entire gray thing is bolt in:
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: TN
Car: 92 RS
Engine: 305 TBI Stock
Transmission: Auto
Re: Broken at the A-Arm
it is the back (on the front side of the mount), where the factory weld attached it originally
I used the picture above to show you where it is till I can get a pic 2moro
Never had to deal with any frame issues before.
Thanks for the replies
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,812
Likes: 110
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
Re: Broken at the A-Arm
the crack on the k-member can be welded, but make sure nothing else is damaged.
you can usually find new factory kmembers cheap.
or go aftermarket, buy they can get a little pricey, about 500$
you can usually find new factory kmembers cheap.
or go aftermarket, buy they can get a little pricey, about 500$
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: TN
Car: 92 RS
Engine: 305 TBI Stock
Transmission: Auto
Re: Broken at the A-Arm
I was hoping to be able to get it welded but after looking at it closer i don't know, the crack goes almost all the way around. Good thing I decided not to tag and drive the car until we put the motor in or I would never have noticed it untill it was too late.
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Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 893
Likes: 0
From: Hattiesburg, MS, USA
Car: 1992 Jade Green---Trans Am Converti
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Re: Broken at the A-Arm
I've got a sub-frame from an 85 TA ready to drop. I'm in MS so shipping shouldn't be too bad.
Kevin D.
Kevin D.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: Des Moines, IA
Car: 90 Formula WS6, 86 Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 TBI, 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4w/vette servos
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open, 3.42 Open
Re: Broken at the A-Arm
Your right, for some retarded reason I was thinking of my nova. But the gray thing in the pic is the k-member. I always thought the subframe meant the rails. Maybe I'm just crazy.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: TN
Car: 92 RS
Engine: 305 TBI Stock
Transmission: Auto
Re: Broken at the A-Arm
Donny
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 893
Likes: 0
From: Hattiesburg, MS, USA
Car: 1992 Jade Green---Trans Am Converti
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Re: Broken at the A-Arm
$40 plus shipping. Couldn't tell you what that is untill I get it off.
Kevin D.
Kevin D.
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