robertfrank

iTrader: (27)

Hey guys I've got another question.......

I've pulled out ALOT of weight out of the front end of my car over the years and due to the fact I put in the Eibach prokit springs just to get the car back to a "stock" height. Now here's my question. I'm planning on Putting My ZZ4 heads on here soon and I know once I do it's going to jack up my front end once more. I've been thinking about swapping to Sportlines but from what I've been reading they're not really for the "performance" minded. What would be a good spring to go to and not sacrifice too much in the handling/strip performance. I've thought about coil overs but I'm still torn about them. Any help would be awesome.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

I'll suggest Weight Jacks.

I've played with standard lowering springs in all my 3rd gens before & every time, I wanted it higher or lower than what I got. With Weight Jacks, adjusting final ride height is EASY & getting a higher or lower spring rate is cheap too.

Do it once & do it right, is my motto now!

robertfrank

iTrader: (27)

How do they work? And what do you suggest?

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Mine are from Ground Control....$459 all 4, with Eibach springs. Other suppliers are out there.

Most people run 800lb-1100lb springs in the front, 180lb-220lb springs in the rear. My specs are in my sig above. Ground Control can make suggestions for you, if you don't know what you want, based on the intended usage/driving style, etc.

Mine is a driver, no racing, so my specs are lower than most. Still higher than stock (by a little), handles very well for a street car but still very comfortable, even on my 17" tires.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Better pic, showing how they set when installed.....

robertfrank

iTrader: (27)

Do they sell the springs too? Do these install in the factory location?

ShMaCk2004

dude just cut some coils

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

$459 includes your first set of springs, whatever rate. $59 for new springs. Dunno if the listed price is each or pair, but I'd assume each.

100% set in the stock locations. Took us 4 hrs to do all 4, including a couple of test drives to get the shocks & struts to settle & determine if I wanted it higher or lower, than when initially installed.

As for cutting springs.....I've gone the cut spring route too. While that is perfectly safe to do, when done correctly, it is not adjustable any.

Want higher? Buy new springs.
Want lower? Buy new springs.
Want stiffer/softer? Buy new springs & then play the too high/too low game all over again! With these, it takes 3 tools. 1/2" ratchet, 1/2" extension & an allen wrench!

robertfrank

iTrader: (27)

Gotta link to these? this is definately something to look into.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Type in 'camaro' into the Search box on the Ground Control website link below & they'll come up.

http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/index.php

robertfrank

iTrader: (27)

ok I just got my set of these and I was windering how in the hell do I install the fronts? i was looking at where the top part comes out and it looks like theres no room. Stephen, what do I do man? lol

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Got your GC Weight Jacks? Cool! What weights did you go with?

To do my fronts, we only took off ONE suspension nut. Plus the wheels. Didn't need to pull the rears, but we already had those off before realizing that. The strut mount nut under the hood. The whole spindle/tie rod/control arm/brakes....EVERYTHING....swung down & we were able to easily pop the spring out & set the GC one in place. Takes 2 people....1 to align the strut bacxk up good, while 1 jacks from below. 1 person could probably do it alone, but not the easiest.

I still haven't gotten the car realigned afterwards. Might be killing the tires, but they were bad anyways &, believe it or not, the car tracks straight, even though it shouldn't. The caster alone should be off.

robertfrank

iTrader: (27)

I went with 850lbs up front and 200lbs in the rear, I talked to the fella there and I told him I wanted more of an "all around" spring. Not just for drag only or AutoX only. I see how the rears adjust but how exactly do I adjust the fronts? From the looks from the top it looks like I can't even get a wrench in there? do you have an installled pic of the fronts? And I'm sure you'd be happy to know that i have joined the hallowed ranks of ROH Snyper owner. I freaking dig these wheels.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

No pics....You practically can't see it after the install, since the spring is so short. What length springs did they give you?

The adjuster seat sits on top of the the spring, with the threaded rod pointing down, inside the spring. So you reach it by using a 1/2" socket wrench & a long extension. Reach up frond under the a-arm, through the spring, up to the adjuster.

To reach it from above, inside the engine compartment, you'd hafta drill an access hole through the sheetmetal and where the springs seats. One of these days, I want to do that.

robertfrank

iTrader: (27)

they gave me 8 inch springs in the front and 10 inch springs in the rear. Also, when you turn the adjuster screw from the bottom, how does it NOT turn the top part of the spring perch?

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

The pressure from the springs will keep everything from turning except the adjuster. Eat your Wheaties that morning though. They are TOUGH to turn. If you have a strong air impact wrench, I'd suggest trying it. We didn't & my friend was the one under the car & it didn't look or sound like he was having much fun under there! LOL

robertfrank

iTrader: (27)

hahaha, maybe I should lube up the top of the adjuster to make it easier,lol

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

He put axle lube on the top & bottom of the spring, plus between the spring & the adjuster....