Do I replace both with adjustable bolts or just the uppers?
I thought they had to work togather but I just read this.
The new EZ Cam XR is designed by SPC Performance #81280 for non-slotted struts. It allows both positive and negative camber changes up to approximately 1.75 degrees (depending on vehicle) by replacing the upper OE strut/spindle bolt. This easy to use adjuster provides built-in adjustment over the life of a vehicle just by rotating the head of the bolt. Each kit contains two cam bolt assemblies, enough for both sides of the vehicle. Click on More Details to view applications.

 

Niether . The caster and camber is adjusted by the strut mount under the hood .

 

That is likely not what he is trying to do.

From the description it seems that one bolt is all you need to get 1.75 degrees of adjustment. I never looked into these before so I'm not sure if it would be beneficial to have both adjustable. Hopefully the right person drops in here and gives up that info.

 

just the uppers, I am ordering a set for my car today, heres a thread about them

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...xr-camber.html

 

I would go out on a limb and say that IF you were to run them for both bolts, you would get more camber adjustment than you should ever need and through your scrub radius so far off that you'd have your hands full trying to drive it.

 

I have 9.5 " wide tires on a car with an allready bad scrub from factory

 

thanks broski BIG HELP!

 

Caster and camber are adjusted at the top plate. A special tool is required because both adjustments need to be done at the same time. The tool holds one adjustment while the other is being done.

Using an eccentric bolt at the bottom of the strut allows a little more camber adjustment at the top. You can get more adjustment at the top by just removing the plate and elongating the holes if your camber is that far out of whack.

 

I am using the HotPart caster camber plates so cant I adjust one at a time?
http://www.hotpart.com/shop/index.ph...uct_detail&p=8

 

You should be able to adjust one at a time .

 

If one has the J+M camber/caster plates would one even need these adjustable strut to spindle bolts? I would think that the J+M plates would offer sufficient adjustability...?

 

Im trying to fix scrub while getting the alignment I want.
The bolts will accually hurt camber potental but the plates should help bring it back in to range.

 

I'm just trying to figure out what you are trying to do hear because I am very confused. Partly because I don't understand the whole scrub radius thing all that well however I do have an idea.

You are adjusting the camber one way at the bottom and then bringing it back in at the top to help reduce you're scrub radius????? And what way are you doing each? As in tell me how so I can make my car better without knowing exactly how to figure it out.

 

Just the opposite(-) camber up top and scrub(SAI) down below.The bolts take away from total camber adjustment.
ps.try to figure it out, it makes everything much easier eg.."how can I make my car better" vs "how can someone else do it for me" Its your car learn it and you will love it even more.

 

So let me see if I get this... By adjusting at the bolt (bottom) for less camber, the scrub radius is better BUT we can get the camber back in the good (negative) range by adjusting it a the strut tower (top)?

I guess this DOES make sense I just never knew what adjustment affected scrub radius... Would alignment shops (with proper equipment ofcourse) know how to adjust scrub radius? The one I go to is very modern and uses the best technology...

 

OK sort of. I don't see how installing these can possably decrease you amount of adjustable camber it just defies logic. If you now have 2 locations that are adjustable it would almost have to give you more of a range. the only thing I can figure is that by the way you have to have the strut mounted at the bottom to try and correct the steering axis inclination now gives you a smaller window to work with on the top.

I have to agree with you on the learning thing however I have spent hundreds of hours reading up on suspension angles and another dificult to figure out aria the camshaft. as I have a good undersanding of how they work and can pretty much fix anything. redesigning or dealling with things like scrub radius and bump stear are a little above what I deal with on a daily bases and to try something out on my car and find out it dosen't work really is't an option as I don't have the funds or time to do it.

 

Hi Madmax

I guess its time I help explain this.

What does the adjustment of Intax camber bolts do? They will basically change a McPherson strut vehicle's SAI (Steering Angle Inclination)

What is SAI?

It is the angle of the strut shaft opposed to the spindle angle. Lets say the SAI from the factory is 18* +/- 1*. and the fatory scrub radius on a 16x8 +16mm offset wheel with a 25.7" tall tire is 0.8"

You now increase wheel width and leave tire diameter alone so the scrub radius goes out another .75 on a 9.5" wheel to a postive 1.55" off center tread contact patch. You Now can increase SAI to a greater angle so as to have the steering pivot ceter move outward on the new contact patch so as not to have the tire drag on a greater scrub pattern in pivot. This bolt kit could increase it lets say 3* so you could now move the SAI to 21*.

There are pro's and cons to this that get complicated, it has to do with inside radius contact patches and combined caster gain of SAI at full lock. Changing these settings could mean entirely resetting the entire suspension setup concerning corner entrance and exit. Basically, the more SAI the less caster needed. Wider tires do better with LESS SAI, not more when dealing with dynamic contact patches.

Dean

 

answered my own question

 

Thanks vetruck that help some. As I assumed there was a lot more going on hear and there is benifets and draw backs to performing this. I relise any suspension is a compramise between many things and that is why manufactures have so many different designs (if there was one best way everyones would be that way). Sorry for turning your simple question into a lesson on steering angles.

 

So how does one go about figuring out what SAI is needed for a given wheel tire combo??

 

I will have to point you to the 2 sticky part one and two for the ultamite handaling 3rd gen as someone else did for me. read through that and it should either help anwser any questions you have of confuse you a lot more. I would have read them a lot sooner but I did not realise there was newer stickys up there I thought all of that stuff was from years ago.

 

I have read them a couple times and I somewhat understand what changing the angles will do. However I didnt see anything that really said how to determine what the proper angle is for a certain setup unless I just overlooked it.

 

You want the SAI pointed to the center of the tire tread laterally. Longitudinally it will point slightly foward in caster lead.

This can only be set on an alignment rack with lots of patiants and trail & error... you will pay big bucks trying to get a tech or alignment shop to help you do this. Alot of take aprty and reajust, then re settle the suspension and reset test equipment, Better have a good friend with an aligmment shop

 

Bringing this back from the dead: I want to adjust my camber bolts (I have both upper and lower strut/spindle bolts that are adjustable, they are from SPOHN). How do I adjust these bolts?

What I think I know so far: By pointing the head towards the outside of the car, it moves the spindles outwards thereby inducing positive camber and the opposite is for negative camber. Which way will cause greater negative scrub radius (our cars have too much positive scrub radius, so by causing more negative scrub, it will make the scrub closer to 0 no?)

A few other Q's... Are both upper and lower bolts adjusted the same way? Do I have to loosen both to adjust them? Also, what is the TQ spec for these bolts?

My goal is to correct the little bit of scrub radius that the LS1 brake kit causes because it moves the wheel out 0.3", and increase SAI.

 

Well you adjust the SAI with the strut bolts you purchased. You should only need one set for your car as you don't have that much to corect. once you adjust the sai with the strut bolt you bring the camber back in with the adjustment at the top of the strut. there are no set SAI specs as what is best for each vehical varys with your tire and wheel and other factors so it's more of a tryal and error thing from what I've read hope this helps and good luck.

 

Thanks 87tpi. I'm running stock IROC-Z 16x8 wheels but stock they have too much positive scrub radius because the design was meant for 15x7 wheels. Not to mention the LS1 brake kit pushing the wheels out 0.32" more. SAI should be slightly more than stock to correct this problem.

What I'll do is turn the bottom bolt to neutral (tab facing up or down) and the top bolt facing outwards so that it should give me +1.75* of camber on both sides. Then I'll have to bring the camber plate back in to bring camber back to -1* on both sides, hopefully getting the same SAI at the end. This should reduce positive scrub radius greatly as well..

Dean mentioned 23.5 SAI is about stock so anything slightly more than that, like in between 24 and 25 and I'd say it's good.

 

Just leave the stock bolt in the bottom, you are really only supposed to use one set per car in the top bolt hole....

 

That's something I didn't know back when I bought them.. For some reason I thought I needed two.. Is there any advantage of having two? Is there just more adjustment?

 

Yeah having two would, in theory, give more adjustment. But it will also make your alignment more complicated, also some people believe that these bolts are weaker than the stock ones. So it is probably best that you only use one per side.

 

Yeah I've read that before because they are marginally smaller, BUT they are made stronger so they are probably as strong or stronger than stock bolts..

Yes I agree the adjustment would be more complicated but they're already there (oh well) so I might as well make the best of them and adjust them as best as I can.