FireInMe17

Ok so its a '90 RS V6.

No matter what I do, the car will always have this shake to it, and its really starting to **** me off.

Ever since my car broke down in the summer, and it was at a garage for 2 weeks, its been like this.

The one day I went in to look to see what they were doing with the car, they had it sitting in a hydraulic lift, so that the car was sitting a few inches higher than normal, so that the tires were still on the ground, but the weight wasn't.

Didn't think much of it at the time, but once I got it back and the ride was rougher and didn't feel as nice, I did.

Never before was there vibrations through the steering wheel, and now there is, never before would the car shake and wobble like it does now.

No matter how I get my tires rotated or balanced, it never goes away, and I had an alignment done too, but that actually made things worse, and now its not aligned at all.

Sometimes now, and this has just recently started, every time I hit a bump in the road, I hear this loud clunk clunk clunk thud noise coming from the passenger side front wheel.

Somethings up with my suspension, and I really want to get this fixed, it used to ride smooth as glass, and now its rough and makes the car feel like a piece of ****....

Here are the tires that I have

Sumitomo HTR T4 215/65R15

http://www.sumitomotire.com/cars/pro...HTR/htrt4.aspx

These tires were on the car when it was broken down in the summer, and have been on the car since.

I'm out of ideas, and every time I take it somewhere, the guys can't see anything wrong with it and nothing looks bent. I don't know what it would be!

Could a wonder bar be of help to this? What about SFC's? Do I need to get new struts or something? Are my tires messed up? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!

8t2 z-chev

could be something like a loose wheel bearing-jack the
car up under the A-arm until the tire clears the ground
then try to wiggle the tire,if you feel any more than a
very small amount of play the wheel bearing is possibly
loose and will need adjusted(play could also be caused
by worn tie rod end,ball joint etc.)
what work was done on the car when it was in the shop?

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

JamesC

Mgb86

iTrader: (3)

Also could be the tires I have never had good luck with Sumitomos. The ones on my DD looked like squares after 20,000 miles. Have you checks all of your front suspension? Jack it up and see if you have play in any of the steering/suspension parts. If you can grab the top of the wheel and push or pull it and it moves I would say you have bad bearings. A wonder bar and SFC would help but shouldn't have anything to do with vibartions in your steering wheel.

FireInMe17

Ok I got the car realigned tonight and checked everything that you guys said to. There is a bit of play when I try to pull or push on the tire, so I'm guessing that its time for new wheel bearings.

Also, never thought about it before, but its time for new struts as well, they are original to the car and they have 72,000 miles on them now, so they are done, and when I pushed down on the car they didn't retain the car, they kept it bouncing.

The car was also towing out .4 to the right on the machine print out when I had it redone tonight. It's been pulling pretty bad lately.

Its not quite vibrating so bad now, but it still is, so I know what I need to get now.

Just when I got it at 56,000 miles it rode so smooth, it rode smoother than my mom's brand new car, and now it rides really really hard, and its pissing me off.

Thanks for the help guys!

PS: Do you guys think it would be worth it to get a wonder bar though?

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

As a protection of the steering box area, yes. Remember, however, that the Wonderbar was never designed as a performance part, but rather a Band Aid. GM apparently thought that the 16" wheels on an IROC would put undue stress on that area.

JamesC

8t2 z-chev

wheel bearings are adjustable,so if they are still in good
(they should be with only 72000 mi.)you can tighten
them up a bit:take the dust cap off,remove cotter pin,
with wheel jacked up clear of ground,tighten nut until
rotation starts to get stiff,back off nut slightly until
cotter pin fits through slots in nut and spindle and if
wheel rotates free and smooth reinstall cotter pin and
dust cap.if rust or any roughness is noticed bearing may
be damaged and should be replaced. Also sometimes
if loose or damaged bearing will rotate on spindle and
wear a groove-spindle will need replaced if that happens

Guest

Lets ask ourselves how did it so far toed out? .4 out on one side is major.

Easy culprit- worn out strut mount. The strut shaft is changing positions inward duue to wear and flex so the toe setting consequently goes positive as the upper part of the spindle angles inward.

Replace yyour strut mounts, thats where the transmission of virations into the steering wheel is taking place also, I can pretty much guarantee it from what you describe is happpening in sequence of events.

Its not wheel bearing.

Guest

Somewhat on this subject, I helped out a member of these boards today helping him find a mysterious clunking noise from under his car. I suspected it to be a strut mount until inspected them and then got the car off the ground and knocked against the wheel 360* and found it only clunked when I hit the wheel/rim/tire at 12 o'clock. It felt like a wheel bearing loose to the untrained eye

This one turned out to be a Bilstien strut assembly coming apart up under the dust boot. The body assembly was half way threaded loose and the piston assembly inside was floating ina sort of nomans land of about 1" undampered state just like a worn strut mount will do. He was lucky this did not come all the way apart or it would have been disaterous at speed loosing this upper suspension link and partial steering control.

Check you Bilstiens.

FireInMe17

I just want to redo the front suspension then, new mounts, new struts, tie-rods and bushings and the whole deal.

It just got realigned last night and its already starting to toe out again...