I'm glad I haven't bought any rear suspension parts yet besides drag shocks because I just found these beauties:



C2110 Painted Black; Camaro, Firebird 82-92 (must be used with Bolt-On Subframe Connectors No. C3111)

Please tell me these will work on our cars without much trouble, because this would fulfill my 2 basic needs. The need to be totally different and the need to have traction

Has anybody used this setup? I should probably find out the price first before I get too excited.

Is it true that I can remove the Torque arm with Ladder bars?

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82 Z28
355 carb'd, Edelbrock Performer RPM package (minus heads), Hooker Super Comps, Mufflex 4" offroad y-pipe, 700r4 with B&M shiftkit, '85 IROC 10 bolt rear with Richmond 4.10's & Auburn posi unit, Lakewood 50/50 drag shocks. Shooting for 3000lbs w/ driver.

The car's website (New design in progress...very cool look)

(383/TH350 buildup this winter)

AIM: Unitedhope
ICQ: 77979548

 

Here's the subframe connectors you're supposed to use with the ladder bars:

 

I feel like a kid in a candy store with this stuff

Here's the tubular control arms suggested above in order to create the "bullet-proof" suspension:

 

Question for Stephen Spohn...Will you're chrome moly rod end lca's work with this setup? how about the relocating brackets? I would rather do business with you and I think you have a better product than they do.

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just got pricing on this stuff and am quite pleased:

ladder bars - $203.95
connectors - $239.95

I think I'm going to be doing some business with Summit soon unless somebody tells me different.

 

It is true that you will get rid of your torque arm. The problem with ladder bars is it will affect the street manors of your car because they don't flex much. I am seriously considering this setup for my car to go with the 12 bolt I am building.

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86 Iroc, 383 Ported Sportsman II, Ported RPM Airgap, 750 Holley Vac. Sec., Slp 1 3/4, Comp Cams roller 218 224, 10" 2600 stall, Fairbanks 700r-4 W/superflow pro pump, 2.73 posi, 12.969@106.54 1.991 60' 9" 3.70, slicks, and full suspention in the works
87 K30 Chevy P/U 355 TPI TH400, headers and 2 1/2 duals, flowmasters, 8" lift, 36" super swampers, 4.10 detroit lockers all the way around

 

Well, I'm very close to buying the connectors and ladder bars, but the street driveability does worry me. BUT, I did a little test last night. I drove around where I would normally take the camaro and I really have nothing to worry about. Apparently my town takes better care of their roads than I thought But I'm not that naive to think there's never going to be an unexpected pothole or a dip road, so while it would be a pain in the *** in the to deal with it, my camaro has always been a strip setup (no a/c, heater, manual steering) so this just helps re-enforce that.

 

I ran across this in a moroso/comp.eng. catalog. Did a search and found this...I didnt see any installation instructions on moroso website and was wondering how the ladder bars attatched to the rearend. If anyone has pics they need to be posted . The picture I have is small and fuzzy. It looks like the axle tube slides through the holes on the ladderbars but that means cutting and welding. This contradicts how the catalogs describes "installing easily with hand tools". I havent installed my 9 bolt yet and was holding off until I found some ebrake cables for it when I found this. I was wondering how these handled on the street. Harshness isnt a factor (minidiscs dont skip ) as I like a firm ride. I was more concerned with handling. Straight line is cool but I like my cornering too. Also the sub frame connectors recommended with these dosent fit the stock exhaust. Moving the converter some isnt a big deal but eliminating it or having to completely rerout where the exhaust goes might be an issue. The catalog dosent describe beyond "factory exhaust system cannot be used". Guess Ill have to poke around the exhaust thread. If anyone is interested Ill call the techline sometime this week and post any info I get.

 

Laddar bars take place of them. You wont need LCA's or the brackets. You'll still need a Pan Hard rod tho to center the rear.

As for how they attach to the rear. You have to weld brackets onto the axle tubes then bolt the bars to that.. Also a crossmember has to be welded for the laddar bars to mount to and the floor to be cut arround them so they can move freely. I remember seeing that guy on here did that conversion. Personally I think it is a bit of work to install them

Kat

 

I guess a welder is supposed to be a simple hand tool. I did run across instructions for installing those subframe connectors and it mentions some minor cutting on the car to install the ladder bars. My only air tool is an air hammer and chisel (can you say fuel pump ) so trimming shouldnt take too long. Since I havent installed the rearend yet (and am not desperate...yet) having somone weld on brackets shouldnt be a big deal but it sounds like some fabrication needs to be done as you go which I cant do myself and cant pay somone else to do it.

 

Do you guys realize this post is 4 years old?

 

Didn't even notice.. lol

Kat

 

That is one of the best ways to learn IMO... Dig up something old and see what's happened since...

Jason

 

BackinBlack383 has that setup and he posted some good pics a while back. i was told that these will adversely effect handling if youre really concerned. plus you wont be able to adjust your pinion angle

 

I thought that date was the post time. I was hoping someone had used this setup since then. I did a search on 383backinblack and found a different setup than what Im looking at. Im planning on calling competition engineering wednesday, when Im not working the same hours as the techline. Wrapping the torque arm around something is very appealing after swapping two transmisssions in one month..actually on a P.O.S. gta I used to have. Two ramps,two jackstands and a jack with only hand tools sucks. If I could adjust my pinion angle Id just screw it up anyway. Money wise this system kind of makes sense as it is cheaper than aftermarket lcas and torque arm as long as the welding dosent get outrageous. And a mandatory subframe connector install is just another excuse to spend the money.

 

Yes you can. You can get them with adjusters on the bottom of the laddar bar OR you can un bolt it and turn out the soild rod end till you get your desired pinion angle.

Kat

 

I called competition engeering today and they are discontinuing these ladder bars. The tech says they dont work and actually recommended another companies lca and torque arm setup. He did say it is a completely bolt on setup and the subframe connectors listed to use with them does make a completely new exhaust system mandatory. Ohhwell.