alright...so my GTA's "performance suspension" has gone to hell..
so...
im looking to get:
shocks/struts
lowering springs
Strut Tower Brace


Shocks/Struts: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KYB-343211
would i just buy 4 of these and be set?

Springs: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-720102/
good?

Strut Tower Brace: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMR-STB003R/?rtype=10

Brake Rotors:Left: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-DSEP-5547L/
Right: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-DSEP-5547R/


Mikey

You left out the most important item....SFC's or sub frame connectors (welded on). This will tighten up the uni-body and help those new struts (kyb gr-2) & shocks (kyb gas-adjust). I would forget the springs and install new Rear Lower Control Amrs & Panhard bar (Spohn Tube type). STB ok. Also your front steering parts are over 20yrs old and could be replaced. Brakes...Start with good pads and unless the rotors are shot then replace (avoid slotted & drilled rotors, what good are they). Sway bar end links have to be shot also (rust weakened & rubber gone from them.

The list could go on & on, but start on the important ones first. Good luck

alright thanks!!

Check ball joints, tie rods, ends, centerlink, idler arm, while you are at it. Maybe some new bearings and races in those new rotors.

The link you posted for shocks and struts is only the rear shocks. Also, anothre important thing is solid strut mounts such as J&M/Hot part strut mounts. That STB isn't going to do much good with the stock strut mounts flexing like they do.

Yep, I'll second this suggestion.

Shocks and struts combined with new strut mounts. Then SFC's, Then STB

I'd add a steering brace "AKA WonderBar" to the list of parts. They are cheap and seem to work well.

Why replace the strut mounts if there is nothing wrong with them??? Mine were in very good condition when I replaced the front struts. But that was only my car and it wasn't abused.

Because the stock rubber ones flex a lot. They are not good at all from a performance stand point. Even in "good" condition.

Yep.

DPJ- Do this test. Pull your dust caps off your stock strut mounts and use a prybar to move the strut shaft. You will see how much even a brand new one will flex the strut shaft about inside the unit. You want ZERO play here laterally AND up & down also when it comes to shock dampering as opposed to slop no mans land of the rubber bushing bobling the chassis rather than being dampered by the strut.

This takes away the the isolation bushing of the strut being a suspension link, but do you want a Cadillac or a sports car? Sports cars want very percise fast steering response with zero deflection and delay. Those factory rubber strrut mounts are crap for performance and a STB is useless with them because the STB is not boxing anything in the chassis to strengthen suspension geometry if the strut shaft is still moving about.

All factory suspension, even in performance cars is a compromise between handling performance and ride quality. They are made to appeal to the masses who are going to use them like regular cars to get from point A to point B most of the time. GM knew this when they designed them. My Firehawk for example was a great car for track use and for street use under ideal conditions. When conditions weren't ideal, the ride felt abusive and it wasn't fun at all.

You think he doesn't know that? What's your point in posting this? Thats a standard knomer and is why after 5 years cars start to get that gfall apart rattling feeling.

I had solid strut mounts in my car and the car drove much better even when cruising.

And your Firehawk when new was a decent track car, not good are great. Replace your factory bushing and put your Firehwak back to pristine showroom suspension condition and I will pay ALL OF YOUR EXPENSES if you can beat a car street leagl car on these boards of my choosing with aftermarket products. Your car in stock form would not hold a candle to a built aftermarket suspension.

If you loose, you pay for the persons travel time. I will make sure that person has a motor with HP compatiple to what you put down.

I play hardball and yes I put my money where my mouth is when I give tech advice.

I don't know what he knows. I don't know what anyone knows unless I know them. It was just general commentary. If you didn't find it of any value, then obviously the comment wasn't meant for you. Simply ignore it and move on.

Again it was general commentary. Not everyone is a suspension guru like you apparently are. There are people on these boards that don't know anything about these cars or even cars in general. Your attitude here is unwarranted.

Well, good for you.

Here is where you failed at reading comprehension. Your inferred meaning the statement didn't contain. I NEVER implied, said, or EVEN THOUGHT the Firehawk could match, beat, or in anyway was superior to any other type of track car. Whether it was upgraded with aftermarket parts or otherwise. My use of the word great was simply in comparison to other F-bodies in stock trim. Nothing more. I should have been more clear than that. However, If you had actually took the statement for what it was intended to be you'd have understood that I simply provided an example of what a car with more "performance oriented" suspension than a stock third generation F-Body can feel like on regular roads. It did handle better than most stock vehicles and when you drove it over bumpy roads it was unpleasant as hell. You also don't know what my Firehawk did or did not have underneath it or what kind of condition it was in. It is called an example. I did not mean to challenge to your obvious superior knowledge of suspension hardware.

You shouldn't use this before posting.



Again I had no intention of challenging anyone to anything. Even if I did still have that car I wouldn't entertain your indulgences on the matter. Unlike some people, I don't have anything to prove here.

I couldn't care less about this.

annnnnnnnnnnnyyyyyyyyywayyyyy!!!!
gonna go with what has been said thanks alot guys for all the help!!

Wow, another wasted thread due to a childish reply.

IMO, I'd spend a little more and go with KONI adjustable struts/shocks or even Bilstein. Additionally, check out your end links and bushings and make sure they aren't worn out. My rear sway bar had some missing and extremely worn out bushings that practically left it loose to make noise and not perform its proper function.

From there, I think moving towards SFCs and a STB is probably the right track.

Oh and as far as springs, get them from a reputable source and you should be fine. Summit = reputable. Some will tell you go Eibach, and they make a quality product. But I have also seen others get their springs from different sources without any problems.

alright..thanks
sounds like i gotta solid plan now
appreciate it guys..
Mikey

Why is it that people think that a slotted and drilled rotor is what kills breaking performance? Yeah rotor area matters, but you will see a much improved breaking force with a larger pad. I can have a rotor the size of Texas for the pad to grab, but if that pad is smaller than Rhode Island, whats the point?

Drilled & slotted rotors reduce gasses and heat build up. Large pads & calipers stop the car in its tracks. If I'm wrong, please tell me why.

sounds correct to me

Drilled rotors have a tendency to crack under hard usage. This is why they are often avoided. Slotted have less tendency to do this.

With todays pad compounds, outgassing is ninimized, so drilling is less important.

If you don't push the car hard, drilled rotors may be OK, but I would probably stay away from them.

If you do anything with brakes, upgrade to larger front rotors as the factory stuff is too small for performance usage.

That's good information. Last time I did research on brake upgrades a couple years back drilled/slotted rotors were all the rage. Suddenly I've been hearing that they should be avoided. I'd also say this, for show car usage, get what looks best to you. Personally I love the way slotted and drilled rotors look.

ill just get bigger pads

INFO: No such thing as larger pads for the 10.5 dia front & rear brakes. You can only have a better pad compound.

guess ill get a better compound then

if you want better pads, get hawks hp+ pads. they are literally 1000x better than the crap i took off the car.
while you are at it, flush all your brake fluid COMPLETELY.

Mikey, Trust me when I recommend these.... Stillen metal Matrix pads. Stillen enterprises is down by John Wayne Airport. Mike Perez (Greygoose) actually used to work there years ago from what I remember. I have used Stillen brake pads for years with great results. No one makes a better pad for street use. They work quite well for light road course use also with a great sweet spot pedal feel, good inittial bite and release, and a high fade range.

I have used everything from Carbotech, to Hawks, to PF, Wilwood compounds, yoou name it...right down to even having Porterfield custom line some pads for me in R-4s and such. I love Stillen's brake compound- but I have no idea what it is they use. I have never been able to find out, I think it is something they developed themselves downunder (Aussies). Stillen is the famous Steve Millen, uncle to Rhys Millen of the drift world for all you younin's

alright thanks dean..will look into it..