frontend rebuild q's
frontend rebuild q's
My SC, with 150k On it, Is a little sloppy, to say the least.
I dont Claim to Know a whole lot about suspension or steering, But what I have read here And other places leads me to belive that it is Probrbly time to Go through My front end and Replace/rebuild as needed, Before going into aftermarket Suspension Mods.
My question, is, What should I do/look For ?
Secondly, any sort of special tools im gonna need to Pick up ?
And Most importantly, How Much $$ am I looking at? Is this something I can Do 1 part at a time, Or Should i just take a weekend ( and possibly a few paychecks ) and Do the whole deal ?
Its always best to Cover the Basics Before getting Fancy, thats All im trying to do here.
Thanks
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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Livin' the Stereotype
I dont Claim to Know a whole lot about suspension or steering, But what I have read here And other places leads me to belive that it is Probrbly time to Go through My front end and Replace/rebuild as needed, Before going into aftermarket Suspension Mods.
My question, is, What should I do/look For ?
Secondly, any sort of special tools im gonna need to Pick up ?
And Most importantly, How Much $$ am I looking at? Is this something I can Do 1 part at a time, Or Should i just take a weekend ( and possibly a few paychecks ) and Do the whole deal ?
Its always best to Cover the Basics Before getting Fancy, thats All im trying to do here.
Thanks
------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Livin' the Stereotype
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,301
Likes: 1
From: Panama City Beach,Florida
Car: 1989 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
With a 150K miles on the car its probably time for a front end rebuild. I would wait till I got all the parts,then tear it down over the weekend and do it all at once. Since your going to be tearing it down do it right. Replace the struts and springs if you plane on it in the future. The ball joints center link and idler arm should be replaced. Don't use the cheap stuff,pay a little extra and buy Moog parts and you'll never have to worry about it again. This woud also be a good time to install new A-frame bushing and end links on the sway bar. Wheater you go with poly or rubber is your choose,though I would reccomend polyuretane. Also check your tire rods and replace if need be.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Changing the control arm bushings is a mother. What I do is go to the boneyard and get a set of them; and take them to one of the local tire stores close to closing time on Sat., and slip the mech a $20 to change them. That way it's a whole lot less down time too, as you can just swap them out and not have to do that work while the car is disabled.
I'd get the front springs you want and put them in at the same time, since you'll have to do most of the same work all over again otherwise. Same goes for struts. For some good cheap springs, get the Moog ones that the book lists for lilke a 87 IROC with "performance suspension". NAPA carries mostly Moog parts too, just in their own boxes, in case you can't find them easily.
About the only tools you'll need are a couple of pickle forks, a ball joint press, a floor jack, and sockets and wrenches of the appropriate sizes (everything from about 5/8" to 1").
It wouldn't be a bad idea to rebuild the steering gear while you're at it, as those always get slop in them too.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
I'd get the front springs you want and put them in at the same time, since you'll have to do most of the same work all over again otherwise. Same goes for struts. For some good cheap springs, get the Moog ones that the book lists for lilke a 87 IROC with "performance suspension". NAPA carries mostly Moog parts too, just in their own boxes, in case you can't find them easily.
About the only tools you'll need are a couple of pickle forks, a ball joint press, a floor jack, and sockets and wrenches of the appropriate sizes (everything from about 5/8" to 1").
It wouldn't be a bad idea to rebuild the steering gear while you're at it, as those always get slop in them too.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
Thanks RB, and Super.
Ive Got the new springs i want to use, In the Mail.
If I understand you guys correctly, what I should do is come up with some control arms, Get the new bushings, And have my Buddy Gary Swap em In for me down at Goodyear.
Then Get some new Moog, Ball Joints, Center Link, And idler arm.
Some new front struts, And a complte set of Bushings ( Energy supensions Kits, I assume ? ))
Other than Crapa, Where Can I source Moog parts ? Id like to Make myself a pricelist here, Because that is really the Only limiting Factor.
Thanks.
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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
Ive Got the new springs i want to use, In the Mail.
If I understand you guys correctly, what I should do is come up with some control arms, Get the new bushings, And have my Buddy Gary Swap em In for me down at Goodyear.
Then Get some new Moog, Ball Joints, Center Link, And idler arm.
Some new front struts, And a complte set of Bushings ( Energy supensions Kits, I assume ? ))
Other than Crapa, Where Can I source Moog parts ? Id like to Make myself a pricelist here, Because that is really the Only limiting Factor.
Thanks.
------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
There might be a better spot, but http://www.wrenchhead.com has Moog stuff online. After you put in your year/make/model, it's under "replacement parts", then "chassis & steering".
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
Thanks Tomp, Ill Chekc that out In the mroning when Im not so Damn tired.
I went to the local Parts place today, and Got prices for replacement parts. They Carry Moog as well.
For new Control arm busings, centerlink, Balljoints, and Idler arm, it came out just North of 500.00
I must admit This is a little higher than I expected, But the more I thougth about it, Not too Unreasonable.
Im Sure I Can get these parts cheaper someplace else, I just need to look, But Now I have sort of a baseline.
Where Did everyone get their parts, and How did your prices compare ?
Thanks.
------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
I went to the local Parts place today, and Got prices for replacement parts. They Carry Moog as well.
For new Control arm busings, centerlink, Balljoints, and Idler arm, it came out just North of 500.00
I must admit This is a little higher than I expected, But the more I thougth about it, Not too Unreasonable.
Im Sure I Can get these parts cheaper someplace else, I just need to look, But Now I have sort of a baseline.
Where Did everyone get their parts, and How did your prices compare ?
Thanks.
------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,301
Likes: 1
From: Panama City Beach,Florida
Car: 1989 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
That does seem a little high to me. The balljoint should be around $30 a peice the idler arm should be around $70 the center link should be around $100 and the control arm bushings should be about $32. That only come to about $262. I would check around a bit if I were you.
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Hmm, Okay.
let me get the itemized printout, and list what each costs me here...
Allright, here it is
Moog K614T Lower Ball Joint 29.98 (x2) =59.96
Moog K6249 Idler Arm 77.98 =77.98
Moog DS1049 Center Link 99.98 =99.98
Moog K6253 Lo Cntrl arm Bush/kit 23.95 =47.90
Comes out to Just under 300.
the other 200 Came from Inner and outer Tie Rod ends, Will I need these or not ?
Thanks For all the Help guys!
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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
[This message has been edited by Bort62 (edited January 23, 2001).]
let me get the itemized printout, and list what each costs me here...
Allright, here it is
Moog K614T Lower Ball Joint 29.98 (x2) =59.96
Moog K6249 Idler Arm 77.98 =77.98
Moog DS1049 Center Link 99.98 =99.98
Moog K6253 Lo Cntrl arm Bush/kit 23.95 =47.90
Comes out to Just under 300.
the other 200 Came from Inner and outer Tie Rod ends, Will I need these or not ?
Thanks For all the Help guys!
------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
[This message has been edited by Bort62 (edited January 23, 2001).]
check out www.p-s-t.com
Well, Wrenchhad will Sell me The Same parts for 210.00 + shippping.
PST dosent seem to stock Moog parts, thanks Tho RS.
Any other suggestions Of Sources ?
Thanks!
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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
PST dosent seem to stock Moog parts, thanks Tho RS.
Any other suggestions Of Sources ?
Thanks!

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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,301
Likes: 1
From: Panama City Beach,Florida
Car: 1989 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Ok,you did not say that included inter and other tie rod ends in the above post. Those are all good prices,check to see how your tie rods look. If their in good shap use them. If I were you I would not get the Moog lower control arm bushings. I would go with the Energy Suspension bushing and don't forget about the end links for the sway bars $14.39 and the sway bar bushings 13.95 from Energy Suspension. If your going to go into it that far ya might as well go all out.
Yeah Thanks Super, I had figured energy suepnsions for the Swaybar bushings, I will Go with them for the Control arm Bushings as well now that You mention it.
Keep In mind that I really Dont know what all this stuff is, Ive never messed with it down there
AS far as looking at the Tie Rods, What Should I look For ?
Thanks.
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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
Keep In mind that I really Dont know what all this stuff is, Ive never messed with it down there

AS far as looking at the Tie Rods, What Should I look For ?
Thanks.
------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,301
Likes: 1
From: Panama City Beach,Florida
Car: 1989 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Look to make sure they are not bent,and check for excessive slop in the joints where they hook up. If there is alot of slop and play in them, you should consider replacing them.
If it is any concelation, the stabilizer end links, which are what connects the end of the front stabilizer bar, are easy to install.
Removal:
Safely raise the front of the vehicle on jack stands and take off the wheel. Behind the brake assembly you should see a vertical bolt with 4 rubber bushings, 2 top, 2 bottom.
holding the head of the bolt (which is at the bottom), unscrew the nut (at the top).
The entire unit will come out. (Well, mine broke as I took it apart actually)
Installtion:
Put a new washer on the bolt followed by a new bushing. Slide the bolt from underneath through the stabilizer bar. Add a bushing, washer, the metal collar, washer, and a bushing. The slide the bolt through the A arm. Add the last bushing, washer and tighten the nut. Just how tight is a judgement call. I've been told as tight as you can before the bushing "out-grows" the washers.
Your done.
The first one took my a while (rusted) but the second flew by.
Any help I can give, please email me.
P.S. You'll figure out which way the bushings go on by regarding that one end is flared for a reason.
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West Coast Performance
1989 Formula 305 TBI
Removal:
Safely raise the front of the vehicle on jack stands and take off the wheel. Behind the brake assembly you should see a vertical bolt with 4 rubber bushings, 2 top, 2 bottom.
holding the head of the bolt (which is at the bottom), unscrew the nut (at the top).
The entire unit will come out. (Well, mine broke as I took it apart actually)
Installtion:
Put a new washer on the bolt followed by a new bushing. Slide the bolt from underneath through the stabilizer bar. Add a bushing, washer, the metal collar, washer, and a bushing. The slide the bolt through the A arm. Add the last bushing, washer and tighten the nut. Just how tight is a judgement call. I've been told as tight as you can before the bushing "out-grows" the washers.
Your done.
The first one took my a while (rusted) but the second flew by.
Any help I can give, please email me.
P.S. You'll figure out which way the bushings go on by regarding that one end is flared for a reason.
------------------
West Coast Performance
1989 Formula 305 TBI
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