I am forwarding this from the DFW fbody list and CFCC-DFW.org. One of our members recently had these installed on his 87 GTA. I am considering purchasing this kit for my 1984 Z28. Let me know what you guys think I know this kit isn't cheap but it is very cool

for pictures use this link
http://para.noid.org/kmember/

Road Tech Third Gen. Tubular Crossmember-
Fabricated tubular cross member replaces the
stamped stock cross member offering added access and superior looks. Fabricated from 1.50" x .120" and 1.25" x .095" wall D.O.M. mild steel tube the M.I.G. welded unit offers strength and great looks while offering easy access to those hard to get components such as motor mount bolts. Fully gusseted 3/16" plate brackets offer superior strength and integrity to the cross member. Twin 1.25" x .095" cross tubes add to the torsional strength. 3/16" motor mount plates include a
fourth mounting bolt hole and all factory holes for vehicles using custom adapters. As an option we offer motor mount in a 1/2" lower position for big block installation. We also include a bump stop mounting pad so the user can install the factory rubber bump stops and small mounting tabs to mount brake lines . Each unit comes complete- painted in a gloss black or gloss red urethane paint, with any necessary hardware. (The unit is
designed only to be used with Road Tech Tubular control arms and custom coil-over strut kit..) $499.99

Road Tech Third Gen. Tubular Control Arms-
Fabricated from 1.25" x .095 D.O.M. the Road
Tech Third Gen. tubular controls arms are
designed to be used with a Coil-over strut setup. .T.I.G. welded arms include greasble Energy suspension polyurethane bushings for limited deflection and squeak free use, and a tubular cross brace for laterel strength. Each Arm comes completely assembled with an American made replacement F-body ball joint (not an import like some manufactures) with sway bar and steering stop brackets. Each unit comes completely painted in a gloss black or gloss red urethane paint, with any nessesary hardware. $349.99 pr.

Road Tech Third Gen. Coil Over Kit-
The Road Tech Coil Over conversion is a complete kit that uses the highest quality components. Unlike other kits that are availible, we have put together a complete package. Each Kit includes a powdercoated Chrome-silicone Progressive or Fixed rate 2.5"i.d. coil spring (buyers choice),threaded adjusting sleeve and nut, fabricated upper spring mount , Torrington spring seat thrust bearings, and a lower strut mounting spacer. $329.99. pr.

As an option we offer a top camber plate that
replaces the stock upper strut mount with a
Teflon lined spherical bearing for a ositive
strut placement. The sperical bearing eliminates the stock rubber bushing and offers zero deflection. Each set comes completely assembled - painted gloss black with all necessary hardware. $169.99 pr.

If you're interested, Email John @ Road Tech:
mailto:RoadTechOnline@yahoo.com




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Mark B.
1984 Z28 5.0. Liter H.0. with 17" Fikse FM/5's
Winner Best Exterior Third Gen. 1999 National Gathering
2000 Dakota R/T Intense Blue Regular Cab
with 18" Budnik Prism 6's
http://community.webshots.com/user/z28ho
http://www.cfcc-dfw.org/members/140.html

 

I don't think Terry has installed them yet, but I know he's hoping to get everything back together before the Memphis event in May. Those parts are very cool, and will work great for those seriously into road-racing and/or drag-racing.

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4

 

I think that it looks really well made and looks like it would be good for autocross too. I would like to know more about the struts though. Are they adjustable, or can I use my own and convert them to work with that kit. Overall it looks and sounds good but it is a lot of money. Add all of it together comes to about $1340. I would do it if I had that cash to throw at it.

James

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If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy
88 GTA Notchback with 91 gfx and ROH Snypers
Aftermarket T-56 (pain in the A$S but worth it)
Lots of things to do still

 

James
It looks to me that he uses stock struts. Somehow mounting a threaded sleeve to the stut for the coil over setup. I will ask so more questions and let you know what I find out. If I do this to my car I hope to be able to use my koni yellow sports with them. I guess I will have to sell my eibachs also since they won't be used anymore.

------------------
Mark B.
1984 Z28 5.0. Liter H.0. with 17" Fikse FM/5's
Winner Best Exterior Third Gen. 1999 National Gathering
2000 Dakota R/T Intense Blue Regular Cab
with 18" Budnik Prism 6's
http://community.webshots.com/user/z28ho
http://www.cfcc-dfw.org/members/140.html

 

I emailed them too. I will post my reply that I get.

James

 

Hi All,
I'm pretty familiar with the stock front suspension on our cars since I've worked a lot on them. Please explain to me what a coil setup is, and its advantages over the stock setup.

Thanks, Dave '91 T/A, '91 GTA

 

Yes they are "stock" replacement Koni stuts.
A spacer sits on the "ears" of the strut, then a threaded aluminum tube is slid over
the outside of the strut, then the spring seat is screwed onto the aluminum tube. A Torrington roller bearing is then used to
allow bind-free movement between spring & springseat. The springs shown are HAL progressive 250-475lb springs. Not shown is the top spring seat or the castor/camber plate system.... Weight? This version (my version) is designed for Street driving and open road racing and is gusseted accordingly.
It weighs the same as the stock K-member(~30lbs). The A-arms are anywhere from 3-5lbs lighter each. Also not pointed
out(and you can see some of them in the pictures) is the fact that I used Global West Del-A-Lum solid control arm bushings instead of those squeaky ES Poly types....

FWIW, we're working on some 13" brakes and a neat Ford 9" setup too.
(no I dont work at Road Tech - I just spend
my money there )

 

Here are two more websites for you guys interested in tubular K members and control arms. I've been looking at these myself but don't have any stories to tell you guys.

http://www.paracing.net/

http://www.ajeracing.com/



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Tom Milmont
'89 Formula 350
13.2sec@101mph
My Page

 

Tom do you know if either of those companies have made any suspension pieces for third gens or are they jsut thinking about it?


------------------
Mark B.
1984 Z28 5.0. Liter H.0. with 17" Fikse FM/5's
Winner Best Exterior Third Gen. 1999 National Gathering
2000 Dakota R/T Intense Blue Regular Cab
with 18" Budnik Prism 6's
http://community.webshots.com/user/z28ho
http://www.cfcc-dfw.org/members/140.html

 

i have PAracing front tubular k member (chromoly) and their chromoly lower control arms with rod ends to help bump steer when i get their coil overs. the k member weighs about 18lb and the control arms weigh about 12lbs....(have to be built stronger considering the load on them)

PAracing will build the k member however you want. if you do not want to run coil overs you dont have to. they will build it to replace the factory k member.

 

Do you have any pics of your setup? Also what kind of prices are there components. I am guessing they where made to order?


------------------
Mark B.
1984 Z28 5.0. Liter H.0. with 17" Fikse FM/5's
Winner Best Exterior Third Gen. 1999 National Gathering
2000 Dakota R/T Intense Blue Regular Cab
with 18" Budnik Prism 6's
http://community.webshots.com/user/z28ho
http://www.cfcc-dfw.org/members/140.html

 

i got in on a group purchase with 30% off. I will say that the control arms are nicer than PA's but i like the k member better. my only problem now is that i had them put rack/pinion mounts on but now i cant use them...so i have to send it back. i'll post some pics sometime next week

 

I wouldn't mind seeing a GP for the paracing front end here on ThirdGen. That may be the winter project for me next year.

------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
461 Big Block installed and ready for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

Well, jason has already said that he WONT EVER DO A GP LIKE THAT AGAIN. too much work for hardly any money. he DID SAY, that he would have more GP's just not for such a discount.

also on another note, their customer service is great. i called them today and asked them about removing my rack/pinion mounts and they said "no problem." i just have to pay shipping. I also ordered it un-coated because i wanted to coat the stuff the color of the car....but have decided against that too and since powdercoating was included on the gp i asked them if they could do it for me and they said "no problem." Kudos to Paracing.

 

89ProchargedROC: why couldn't you use the rack mounts on your k-member? I was considering getting their whole set-up (PA Racing), including the rack mounts to save weight. Is it too hard to adapt a rack and pinion, or did you just decide against it? Any help appreciated!

Brian



------------------
1987 Firebird Formula

 

Well for a couple reasons:

First i found out that the biggest weight savings when going to rack/pinion is getting rid of the steering box in favor of a rack which weighs like 10lbs. the stock steering box weighs like 50lb. then with no linkages you are looking at another 5lbs or so of savings. so the conversion i think would save you a total of about 50-55lbs. it wouldn't be too hard to adapt either.

then i started looking around. For one, the NFRA wouldn't allow the conversion. Second every other racing association adopts a weight penalty for not "stock type steering." usually around .1lb per cid. i'm running a 400 so that would be about 40lbs of weight penalty and a 50lb saving. so in the end I'M ONLY LOSING 10LBS FOR ABOUT $650 OF WORK.

so i decided to go with a Flaming River manual steering box kit. Cost is about $500 and will save you about 40lbs and is still legal with no weight penalty. Makes more sense doesn't it?

 

I think the total weight for a power steering box is higher. Consider the weight of the box, pump, hoses and cooler lines if equiped.

The rack and pinion I'm assuming is still power steering from a 4th gen so the pump etc is still required.

Going to a manual box eliminates all that to a single light component. I already use a manual box from an S-10 so I guess I won't need brackets for a rack.

 

89ProchargedRoc: Thanks for the input, and I can see why you didn't go with the rack. I, on the other hand, don't plan to bracket race competitively where I would penalized for the 'not stock' steering. I do plan to drag race, just not where there's any rules, hehe

I am looking for the ultimate amount of weight savings in the front end so I'll probably opt for the rack.

BTW, Stephen 87 IROC, it's a manual rack so there is no pump or lines to mess with.


Thanks all,
Brian


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1987 Firebird Formula