Jza

How much should be trimmed from the spacer in the end-links after lowering a car in order to keep the sway-bar geometry correct? Say, in this instance a 1" lowering?

355 IROC-Z

if you have drop spindles for the front, you
shouldn't have to cut any away. as for the back, i haven't heard of anyone doing this but if i were, i would first measure from a point off the car or ground to the top of the sway bar where it connects to the endlink.
i can picture this binding up, though, if you didn't get it back into its proper place. the important part is to make sure the sway bar isn't binding up at all!

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87 iroc-z 355 TPI 5 spd. 51006 SLP cam adv. 4* (106.5* centerline)
hypertech stage II chip/ 160* stat./ Airfoil, accel AFPR
19# injectors, ported plenum and runners. 9.8:1 compression
stock heads, pocket ported, 1.94 int., unshrouded.
stock exhaust manifolds and y pipe! hopefully soon to change
3.45 rear (stock)
Flowmaster, K&N w/ hacked airbox/removed MAF screens
14.38@100mph 2.2 60'

GregWestphal

iTrader: (1)

I'd say that would have to be figured out by measuring the change before the new springs are installed. Have a friend sit on the car to simulate a 1" drop (that might not be possible in the front unless your friend is quite heavy), then measure how far the endlinks moved from their original location. Just remember that it's much easier to cut more off than to add it back (and more expensive to buy new spacers or endlinks) if you cut too much off.

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4

cy Z28

You need to keep sway-bars paralell with your LCA's and your front A-arms. Whatever length you need to do that is what you need.