sway bar end-links.
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
when i did mine, i ended up breaking 2 of the bolts, i assume you have new endlink hardware (if you don't get some) and then just get a wrench you can get some good leverage with, and wrench on it till it breaks. this is pretty common that they break, because the nut sorta gets perminetly attaced.
you could try some penetrating lube, and see if that does the trick.
you could try some penetrating lube, and see if that does the trick.
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From: San Jose, CA
Car: 2002 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23
you need to keep the top nut stationary while you unscrew the bottom, it will take some work because of those rubber spacers but will eventually come off. I had no trouble getting mine off a few weeks ago.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 591
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From: portland, Maine USA
Car: grand prix/84 z28
Engine: 4.6 Northstar
Transmission: t-56
Umm...
I used a torch to heat them up and that really helped, I changed all four of mine. I broke teh front to and used the torch for the rear. It can be messy but it is not much, it comes off pretty easy.
Breaking them should be the easiest thing to do.
Breaking them should be the easiest thing to do.
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 429
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From: Germantown, MD USA
Car: 87 T/A
Engine: TPI 350 ci
Transmission: 5 speed
when I recently did mine, one side came off (but I wouldn't have used them again) and the other side I had to cut off.
contact Guldstrand and get their kit. It's complete, poly, plated and reasonably priced.
Mike
contact Guldstrand and get their kit. It's complete, poly, plated and reasonably priced.
Mike
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Mine were rusted beyond belief and I had to replace mine too. Just get new hardware, you'll save yourself frustration of trying to reuse the old crap.
yup, like everyone says, just use some brute force and ignorance (little quote from my shot putt/discus coach) to remove the old ones, then replace with bright, new ones includng poly bushings. They are availibe from your local auto store (well, AutoZone carries em fer sure), for about 3-4 bucks a pop...
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
The problem is that the thru-bolt has rusted to the center sleeve. So even if you snap the nut off, you're only freeing 1/2 of the end-link, the other will stay stuck to the bar. A hacksaw's the way to go. The front's a bit tricker; it's hard to get a saw in there. I used a cutting tip on a soldering iron to slice the end link bushings (control arm side) down one side. Then I pried the bushings off the end link, and used bolt cutters to cut the end link bolt off. Now I have air tools, and would probably use a cutoff wheel.
Make sure you lube the new end link's center bolt up with a TON of silver anti-seize to help prevent this from happening in the future!!
Make sure you lube the new end link's center bolt up with a TON of silver anti-seize to help prevent this from happening in the future!!
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iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Ditto, both of my sleeves were rusted to the bolt and the bolt itself was corroded to about 2/3 of it's original thickness. Also, when I reassembled my links with the new hardware, I used a ton of anti-seize, I have some stuff called Moly-cote and it's great. I use it on all nuts, bolts, etc. I got it off my submarine before I got out of the Nav.
To get my links off, I did manage to get the nut off, then just beat the hell out of the bolt and drove it out with a 4 lb. mallet.
To get my links off, I did manage to get the nut off, then just beat the hell out of the bolt and drove it out with a 4 lb. mallet.
I guess I am just not that smart, as I just bust the nut head off, put the sway bar off (coarse, had to pull bar off anyways), and chissle sleeve off. And naturally, I didnt even think about anit sieze stuff!
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