Installing shocks and struts
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 148
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From: illinois, united states
Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Installing shocks and struts
I have KYB shocks and struts on the way and when they arrive, can I install them myself? If so, what do i need..what kind of tips can you give me about installation?? Any help is welcome. Thanks
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1991 WS6 Trans Am
Medium Green Metallic
Beechwood interior
305 TPI
TH 700-R4, Auto
T-Tops, PW, PL, PM
Keyless entry, alarm
Flowmaster Muffler
Monza Dual Tips
K&N Filter
Macewen white faced overlays with Xenon bulbs
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1991 WS6 Trans Am
Medium Green Metallic
Beechwood interior
305 TPI
TH 700-R4, Auto
T-Tops, PW, PL, PM
Keyless entry, alarm
Flowmaster Muffler
Monza Dual Tips
K&N Filter
Macewen white faced overlays with Xenon bulbs
If you're good with cars you could do them yourself,just get a haynes manual or other similar book.
You could probably get them installed pretty cheap at Midas or some other shop if you're not comfortable doing it yourself,I know I wasn't.
You could probably get them installed pretty cheap at Midas or some other shop if you're not comfortable doing it yourself,I know I wasn't.
Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 125
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From: Whidbey Island
Car: 99 Trans Am
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Hulk0202:
Its not very hard at all. The back is real easy and the front wont require that much more effort. Just make sure you have support under the wheels so the springs stay compressed.</font>
Its not very hard at all. The back is real easy and the front wont require that much more effort. Just make sure you have support under the wheels so the springs stay compressed.</font>
Nate
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1988 Camaro Sport Coupe
- Custom Interior
- K&N Air Filter
- Custom Ram Air
- 180* Stat
- Shift Improver Kit
Homepage: www.rsdragster.cz28.com
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
You -can- take out the rear seat, it's not required, but it's easy enough. Just remove the folding seatback. There's a 10mm nut in each lower side corner. After that's out, pull the carpet up along the back. The upper shock nuts are right where the "***** " of the car meets the "flat spot" under the window, in the corners of the car. They're underneath pieces of yellow foam. Torque for those is light; IIRC only 15 ft/lbs.
If that was just a labor quote from Meinke, that's a lot of dough- especially considering they have a lift for easier access. Now, if that included parts & labor & a front-end alignment (which you should get after new front struts), that's a good price.
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
If that was just a labor quote from Meinke, that's a lot of dough- especially considering they have a lift for easier access. Now, if that included parts & labor & a front-end alignment (which you should get after new front struts), that's a good price.
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 148
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From: illinois, united states
Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Just finished installing the rear shocks. The lower bolt was a pain, but once it broke loose, the rest was a breeze. It took about an hour. I dont have time to do the struts tonight, i have to work. But I will try to do them tommorow. I will be sure to make sure I can get an alignment before the weekend though.
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
I did mine myself and it was pretty easy. Time consuming, but easy.
One piece of advice I give to everyone is to use a Clench Wrench from Sears to hold the top of the strut pins still, so you can remove the nut. I tried a pair of Vise Grips on the first side, and knawed it all to hell. Then it hit me like a ton of bricks. The second one was SOOO much easier with that Clench Wrench.
You gotta use the smallest wrench though. The second size up is too big. It won't "clench" onto the metal. If you've looked under the covers on the bracket, then you've seen what I'm talking about. The thing has two sides, and rounded sides between them. Other people on here say they've used Vise Grips with no problem, so maybe I just had bad luck, but who knows.
Good luck.
AJ
One piece of advice I give to everyone is to use a Clench Wrench from Sears to hold the top of the strut pins still, so you can remove the nut. I tried a pair of Vise Grips on the first side, and knawed it all to hell. Then it hit me like a ton of bricks. The second one was SOOO much easier with that Clench Wrench.
You gotta use the smallest wrench though. The second size up is too big. It won't "clench" onto the metal. If you've looked under the covers on the bracket, then you've seen what I'm talking about. The thing has two sides, and rounded sides between them. Other people on here say they've used Vise Grips with no problem, so maybe I just had bad luck, but who knows.
Good luck.
AJ
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