Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Idler Arm

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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 09:56 PM
  #1  
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From: Moorpark, CA
Car: '91 GTA, '92 T/A Convertible
Engine: GTA: 350 w/Vortec heads, T/A: 305
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Axle/Gears: GTA: 3.27, T/A: 2.73
Idler Arm

Did a search and couldn't really find an answer so I'll just ask. I have to replace my idler arm, is it better to go with Moog or AC Delco? Or just get a NAPA brand?
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:11 PM
  #2  
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Idler Arm

I bought a house brand tie rod end for my truck. 15,000 km later it was worn out again. I replaced it with a Moog. Much better design and worth the extra cost.
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:22 PM
  #3  
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From: Detroit Suburbs
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: 5.3L
Transmission: Jerico
Axle/Gears: Aluminum 8.6 w/ T2R
Re: Idler Arm

I'll second that. Normal parts store stuff didn't last 6k on my camaro and it was loose (could have been loose from the start). I just put a Moog on, but it still has zero miles, but I've read and heard they are much better parts.
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:29 PM
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Car: 87 TA clone
Engine: 70/70 Turbo 5.3 LS
Transmission: bullet proof 2004R
Axle/Gears: ford 8.8, 3.55 gears
Re: Idler Arm

I replaced my idler arm with a part from autozone. (my car gets driven fairly hard and did put out alot of power) but between the moog and the other brand i went with the other brand. I believe mine was called "center link" old package... but MADE IN USA! The centerlink brand idler arm was much beefier than the stock one and its worked fine. THe moog peices are usually a nicer peice but then again ive had my problems with moog.

Ive replaced all my tie rods with moog problem solver tie rod ends (inner and outer) And i used edelbrock solid machined tie rod adjusters. Within 2 years I had a stuck tie rod in the edelbrock tie rod adjuster! these were painted, sealed, and i used anti sieze. I heated the D@MN thing, put it in a vise etc and to this day i still have it stuck together lol. I went with another moog piece but this time UMI tie rod adjusters. Just saying... all products can still malfunction. Moog is a good brand but dont believe all the hype, You really just want something thats made in the USA and not overseas AKA china.
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 11:56 PM
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From: Moorpark, CA
Car: '91 GTA, '92 T/A Convertible
Engine: GTA: 350 w/Vortec heads, T/A: 305
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Axle/Gears: GTA: 3.27, T/A: 2.73
Re: Idler Arm

I was thinking of just going with the AC Delco piece. Are they still made in the U.S.?
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 06:31 AM
  #6  
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Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Idler Arm

Moog for me. Check http://www.rockauto.com/index.php?a=...rtsgascappromo for pricing.

JamesC
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 10:36 AM
  #7  
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From: Trumbull CT
Car: 87 TA clone
Engine: 70/70 Turbo 5.3 LS
Transmission: bullet proof 2004R
Axle/Gears: ford 8.8, 3.55 gears
Re: Idler Arm

the moog i believe will cost u around 100$ for the center link. Not sure tho.

I believe the napa parts are made in usa... i kno they have pretty good oil filters "napa gold" i believe. I cant say the same for AC delco tho... i feel there products quality has been deminishing. I see some stuff made in USA, some made in mexico, etc. Same could be said for SPEED PRO lifters! speed pro claims "made in usa"! but what they dont tell u is they "assemble" the lifters in USA but they use parts from overseas... like india. why do i know u might ask? bc i had 2 of them fail on me brand new outa the box and it destroyed my brand new 300$ cam! cost me 550$ in damage.

get what you can afford, moog as i said is a good brand, i would def look at napa etc and check there stuff out. Compare it to your stocker.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 10:53 AM
  #8  
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Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
Re: Idler Arm

With a 20 yr old car I would think about replacing all the front steering parts and not one piece at a time.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 03:24 PM
  #9  
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From: Moorpark, CA
Car: '91 GTA, '92 T/A Convertible
Engine: GTA: 350 w/Vortec heads, T/A: 305
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Axle/Gears: GTA: 3.27, T/A: 2.73
Re: Idler Arm

Originally Posted by DJP87Z28
With a 20 yr old car I would think about replacing all the front steering parts and not one piece at a time.
The idler arm and centerlink are the only stock suspension parts still on the car. Everything else has already been replaced.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 03:32 PM
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Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
Re: Idler Arm

Originally Posted by blacksunshine'91
The idler arm and centerlink are the only stock suspension parts still on the car. Everything else has already been replaced.
So you were doing one piece at a time.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 03:44 PM
  #11  
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From: Aurora, OR
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: 355 cid TPI
Transmission: Custom Built 700R4 w/3,500 stall
Axle/Gears: QP fab 9" 3.70 Truetrac
Re: Idler Arm

Moog Problem Solver is industry standard for quality repairs. Unfortunately, the Third gen's idler arm is a weak link in one of the best steering systems ever made. It will never last very long under hard use. Moog atleast applies some real design effort at "solving the problem". As far as NAPA parts are concerned. If you check you'll find that theyre premium line of steering parts is all reboxed Moog. As is Carquest. NAPA hasnt made theyre own parts in decades. BTW theyre awesome Gold filters are WIX. Have been for years and years. Ignition parts are Standard Motor Products.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 05:06 PM
  #12  
blacksunshine'91's Avatar
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From: Moorpark, CA
Car: '91 GTA, '92 T/A Convertible
Engine: GTA: 350 w/Vortec heads, T/A: 305
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Axle/Gears: GTA: 3.27, T/A: 2.73
Re: Idler Arm

Originally Posted by DJP87Z28
So you were doing one piece at a time.
No, I didn't. I did pretty much everything except that one part. For whatever reason, I just didn't change it out when I replaced the front suspension. Not to mention, there are some people who have a finite budget.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 06:24 PM
  #13  
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From: Aurora, OR
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: 355 cid TPI
Transmission: Custom Built 700R4 w/3,500 stall
Axle/Gears: QP fab 9" 3.70 Truetrac
Re: Idler Arm

Im with black sunshine. I went to great lengths building my chassis and suspension, including a PST polygraphite front suspension kit. It came with everything to renew the front suspension and steering, except the centerlink and idler arm. Since then Ive installed an awesome ASG 12:1 steering gear, excellent peice by the way. Still need an idler arm. This year for sure. Lol
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 07:22 PM
  #14  
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Re: Idler Arm

It's a little different here in Canada however from my research Moog problem solvers are at the top of the list as far as replacement parts go.
ALL my suspension components have been changed (including the idler arm and requisite adjustment). Looking forward to the first test toast in a couple of weeks.

Last edited by skinny z; Sep 24, 2010 at 08:08 PM.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 10:16 PM
  #15  
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From: Moorpark, CA
Car: '91 GTA, '92 T/A Convertible
Engine: GTA: 350 w/Vortec heads, T/A: 305
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Axle/Gears: GTA: 3.27, T/A: 2.73
Re: Idler Arm

Looks like I'll be picking up a Moog piece this weekend. Would it be wise to go ahead and swap out the centerlink as well? Just from observations, it doesn't look like a wear piece but it seems like a lot of people have replaced thiers.
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 06:25 AM
  #16  
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Idler Arm

Originally Posted by blacksunshine'91
Looks like I'll be picking up a Moog piece this weekend. Would it be wise to go ahead and swap out the centerlink as well?
Yes.

JamesC
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 05:54 PM
  #17  
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From: Trumbull CT
Car: 87 TA clone
Engine: 70/70 Turbo 5.3 LS
Transmission: bullet proof 2004R
Axle/Gears: ford 8.8, 3.55 gears
Re: Idler Arm

Originally Posted by JamesC
Yes.

JamesC
X2
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 02:29 AM
  #18  
blacksunshine'91's Avatar
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From: Moorpark, CA
Car: '91 GTA, '92 T/A Convertible
Engine: GTA: 350 w/Vortec heads, T/A: 305
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Axle/Gears: GTA: 3.27, T/A: 2.73
Re: Idler Arm

I went ahead and got the Moog idler arm and centerlink from RockAuto. I am almost done with my front suspension rebuild. My problem is getting the upper bolt holding the idler arm to the frame. When I try to loosen the nut, the bolt just spins and I can't see any way to get to the bolt head. Any suggestions/help?

Eldon
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 06:33 AM
  #19  
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Idler Arm

Originally Posted by blacksunshine'91
I went ahead and got the Moog idler arm and centerlink from RockAuto. I am almost done with my front suspension rebuild. My problem is getting the upper bolt holding the idler arm to the frame. When I try to loosen the nut, the bolt just spins and I can't see any way to get to the bolt head. Any suggestions/help?
I'm not familiar with Birds, so I may be way off, but isn't there a liner in the wheel well that covers holes in the frame (holes which allow access to the bolts)?

JamesC
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 11:08 AM
  #20  
blacksunshine'91's Avatar
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From: Moorpark, CA
Car: '91 GTA, '92 T/A Convertible
Engine: GTA: 350 w/Vortec heads, T/A: 305
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Axle/Gears: GTA: 3.27, T/A: 2.73
Re: Idler Arm

Originally Posted by JamesC
I'm not familiar with Birds, so I may be way off, but isn't there a liner in the wheel well that covers holes in the frame (holes which allow access to the bolts)?

JamesC
I'll check that and see if that works. Thanks.
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 11:22 PM
  #21  
blacksunshine'91's Avatar
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From: Moorpark, CA
Car: '91 GTA, '92 T/A Convertible
Engine: GTA: 350 w/Vortec heads, T/A: 305
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Axle/Gears: GTA: 3.27, T/A: 2.73
Re: Idler Arm

That worked. Thanks. For whatever reason I did not see that access hole last night. Went out there tonight and as soon as I got down there the access hole was staring me in the face. Now my issue is getting the new idler arm to rotate so I can install it. The way Moog/Federal Mogul packages it makes it 90* from where I need it and I don't have a bench vice to clamp down on it so I can rotate it. More fun to be had.
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