When i'm on the freeway it rattles. And when i go into a mild turn at high speeds(65-80) I can almost feel the body flexing and the car rattles like crazy. Would SFC's do the trick?

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-Dan
-1990 3.1L RS
-Mods? no
-Slow? yes
-Currently collecting parts for T5 swap

 

I'd say that subframe connectors will help with the rattles but are best put on before it starts to rattle. Subframes will help with the flexing too but to really firm up the front end you need a strut tower bay brace.

 

Mine helped quite a lot with squeeks and rattles.

Are strut tower braces that good? Why don't manufacturers put them on at the factory

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'86 IROC ZZ4
Holley 750 dp, Shorty Headers, BW POSI 3.27 rear, Southside sfc's, Probuilt 700r4, Hurst Dual Gate Shifter.
Best Run 13.8 @ 100mph- far more to come!
London-England (Brothers In Arms)
British Firebird/Camaro Site

 

Before doing any SFC or STB. Be sure to check your door hinges are tight. The doors are a major body support structure. Open both doors slightly, and drive over a speed bump slowly. You will see what I mean. After I did my hinges, I noticed that most of my squeaks, and groans from the body disappeared. Also my T tops stopped leaking when parked on an uneven surface.

[This message has been edited by ANDYZ28 (edited October 16, 2001).]

 

Some cars do come with STBs from the factory. I have a 91 Cadillac land barge that has one, for example.

The reason they don't put them on is simple: $$$$. If they didn't think the car needed it bad enough that they had to spend money to do it, then they didn't.

But back to the original post... Yes, SFCs will help rattles, to some extent. They stiffen the body overall. However if you have a bunch of loose trim hardware, or worn-out door hinges or T-top latches or a misadjusted rear hatch, they won't fix any of that. They make a BIG difference to the way the car goes over bumps, especially when one wheel hits it at a time, like turning into a driveway or something.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

What do they look like when installed, I think mine car has them but i am not sure.

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1987 Black 305 TPI 5spd IROC, seems to be fully loaded, but can't find RPO codes.

AIM: IROC 5spd
http://www.geocities.com/chevy5spdiroc/87Roc.htm

 

http://phxdale.freewebspace.com/Formula/underhood.jpg

One thing you might want to do before installing STB's is a front wheel alignment.
I did not and then to get the wheels aligned they had to take it off, make slots out of the holes so they could move it a little.

And yes it makes a HUGE difference exp. around bumpy turns.

 

Hey Andy, what's involved in doing the hinges? The doors on my convertible rattle a lot and don't close perfect. I was hoping SFC's would help out with the rattles, but the hinges seem to be the real problem.

Thanks,
larry

 

BigL350,
I did the door hinge job on both doors of my 86Z28.It was a bitch!As the upper and lower door hinges are actually welded to the door.The replacement GM hinges have you drilling out the factory welds and bolting the replacement hinges to the door with a sort of reinforcement plate, as opposed to being welded.You have to guess at the factory weld locations.There are four welds on each upper door hinge for a total of eight
I guessed wrong on seven.This is such a nasty job that I would never do it again for anyone.
My 86 IROC-Z had loose hinges also. I was not going to go through that ordeal again,so I have designed a replacement set of door hingepins and bushings. It only takes about 2hrs per door to install,no drilling out of factory welds or any of that crap.
They are vastly superior to the original factory pins and bushings.I have had several of these made to help other 3rdGen owners out.As a result I am currently sold out.Its kind of a pain getting them made(aero-space quality and all that)but I should have some more in 2-3weeks. If you guys are interested let me know and I`ll set a couple aside.

 

I could use a set of those when you get more made, Andy.

 

Count me in. I need pins for two cars (all 4 doors). How much are you getting for these things?

 

i would also be interested, depending on how much it costs, you can post info, or e-mail it to me dewey316@3rdgen.org

 

For $62.40+$2.30 or so shipping,you can do one upper door hinge. I did not expect the demand to be so overwhelming. The few that I am waiting on are all spoken for already. I mean ,my wife actually goes to the post office herself on Saturday to mail these things. We will do the best we can for all of you. Those of you who wanted several set aside. I have done so for you.
These are like airplane quality parts for your car. I will try to get some photos done and post them. HUMMM, how do I post photos?

 

OK! Here is the reason that having tight door hinges on a third gen F-body is so important. It has nothing to do with the doors sagging,the lower door rubbing through your ground effects,the doors must be slammed to close,etc.
It is all about body geometry,and body integrity.Not appearance! The reason for the installation of subframe connectors,and strut tower braces is to support the undercarriage,and suspension systems. All of
this added support is essentially horizontal.
Not vertical! The reason that you will
still hear the sounds of body movement after the installation of SFC's,and STB's?The cowl is moving. The cowl area is what the windshield,dash,and firewall(down to the front subframes) attach to. The only real support for this area (while moving) is the doors. Once the original hinges are worn out, the cowl is free to move around. One of the first signs of this, is the T tops leak when the car is not parked on a level surface. For hardtop cars,cracks appear on both sides at the rear of the roof. The free movement of the cowl permits the roof to "oil can",and crack. Tight door hinges are the only way to prevent or arrest this condition. Those of you that doubt me? Open your door only slightly,and drive diagonally over a speed bump very slowly. You can see the doors,and cowl move. This is even true(but to A lesser degree) on cars with SFC's,and STB,s. The worst cracking is hidden away at that portion of the cars where the cowl/firewall area meets the subframes at the rear of the wheelwells.My '82Z28' had this.So! you must have tight door hinges before installing SFC`s, especially the "weld in" kind.
I hope I have been of some help.

 

Those of you that have been flooding me with emails on this subject. Please post you questions,and replys here. So everyone can benefit. Thanx,ANDYZ28

 

For those that are interested, Andy sent me this picture of the installed pin and bushing.



It looks a lot easier than welding new hinges on. My girlfriend's 82 has sagging doors and could really use a set.

 

Definitely put me down for a set. Where should we send the payment to?

 

Send payment to: 3rd Gen Solutions
14000 Key Deer Drive
Midlothian,Va. 23112-6108 Make payable to: Andy L.Sherrer
We should be ready to ship in about 2 weeks.

 

My SPOHN SFC's killed the door rattles on the highway. I did gain a minor "cat rattle" as it was hitting the SFC, but that will be adjusted this weekend.

Even my mom noticed as she was warming up the drag radials at a neighbors house.

Gotta LUV a 64 yr old mom tattooing the neighbors!

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86 T/A 5.0 A4 & 2.77 gear
15.62 @ 86 mph
93 Civic 1.6L
13.5 @ 100 mph

 

night and day difference, but my exhuast sounds like a chainsaw digging through the floorboards. Make sure you plan for them. BTW, a picture of your car from 20 ft away won't reveal a lot about frame connectors. flip the car on it's top and then take the picture.

 

The subframe connectors will tighten the but do litte to improve door fit or function.Tight upper door hinges are really the only thing that supports to cowl/windshield area. It is also nice to have the doors close as they were originally intended.

 

This is the damage loose door hinges can do to a door latch!

 

Those of you interested in my replacement upper door hinge pin&bushing sets? Please go to the "body/interior" board.

 

I had a set of Spohn SFC welded on my '91 TransAm (t-tops) this past summer. Although I ran into a lil problem with weld-surface-angles (solved easily a little bit of filler), the SFCs quieted a LOT of the body "groan" and the back 1/2 of the car follows SO much better than before on turns. The chassis is much more solid and the handling limits are easier to feel, especially long, fast turns. (i.e. Pasadena 110 freeway in CA, if anyone can relate! ) The interior noise is FAR from sedan-quiet, but due the cancelation of major creaks, I can hear a ton of little things rattling and squeaking near the hatch (prolly b/c i made my pull-down stationary with bolts after the motor went out). Ah wells... all in all, Spohn SFCs rock. I'm considering a STB next... muaha.


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Brian P.
'91 TransAM: 305TPI -=flowed=-

 

I just had my SFC welded on Monday and boy let me tell you and sure makes a difference. Specially going over speed bumps. Like it was stated already, the rear come around faster when you take a sharp turn entering a freeway on ramp the 105W if you could relate. However, because it touches with my catalytic, it make an annoying vibration noise inside the car nearest to the passenger side. Kind of irritating but will be fixed once I put on headers and cat-back. All in all, well worth the expense. A must have mod for any third gen.