All right... My car likes to 'wander' when I drive over anything resembling a bump. So today I jacked it up, and it looks like I need to replace both my idler arms it seems as though i have a lot of movement. Any way, what brands/models would you recomend?
Also, How can I tell that my shocks/struts need replaced? Thank you.

 

"Both" idler arms? There is just one, equivalent to the pitman arm on the steering box side. If the idler arm is worn, the passenger side wheel will want to go its own way. The wheels will also not go where they are steered if the tierod ends are worn. If it's both, you may as well replace the whole center link assembly with the tierod ends and idler arm. It's more for parts, but a lot less work in the long run. Your struts are worn if they leak oil or the front end bounces more than once.

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1985 Yellow IROC-Z 5.0 HO, T-5 3.73 Torsen, 4 wheel disks
PFCM pads, GTA wheels, Koni yellows, B&M Ripper, Dynomax

 

When I jack my car up so that the front wheels are off the ground, and I go to turn the wheel (grab the tire and push/pull) I can see the idler AND pitman arms moving. I really cant describe it better than saying there is 'give' in it.

 

Yeah, if it's all worn that much, you should look into a complete front end rebuild kit from PST or a similar vendor.It'll be less work to replace it all, than just a few components,since you'll only have to disconnect the outer rod ends,unbolt the idler from the frame and pull the pitman.Then you can pre-assemble the new steering gear, adjust it to approx. the same lengths and slap it all on as a unit.
Good chance it all needs replacing anyway.
-Rich-

 

Usually your center link or (Drag link) never needs replaced, so you shouldn't have to worry about that. It could be your Idler arm if you decided to get it replaced take it to someone. I just replaced mine and ran into a problem installing the new one. Taking it off is no problem but when installing it you have to have it pressed on and no one carries the tool to do it. Most idler arms are slotted and all you have to do is tighten the bolt to press it on, but on Camaros they are smooth so a special tool is needed. Also getting your front end aligned would be a good idea after installing it.
As for the tie rods you can do them yourself. But if you plan on replacing all of this do it all at once so that you only have to have the front end aligned once.
A good brand to purchase would be Moog they are a little more beefy than the stuff you get at a parts store. You can purchase them through Summit.

Mark

 

Centerlink wear out. Idler arm's require no special tools and aren't pressed in. It could be your steering box is getting loose. To check the idler arm move the center link up and down--if it's good it should move up and down at all. When you 'shake' the tire, watch the other tire and see if it moves exactly the same as the tire you are shaking. If not, see where the loose joint is.
How many miles do you have on the struts/shocks?
How are the tires? Aligned recently?


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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, currant red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

Hey gents, which one is it??? Pressed on or not. My Idler is just about gone and I was going to do it myself, but Id like to get the info straight before tearing into it???????????????????????????????????

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92 Teal RS
305 TBI
Thermomaster Chip-160Deg Stat
K&N
Custom Throttle Return Bracket
Heddman 1-5/8 Headers
Hooker 3" (Y-Pipe Back)Dual 2-1/2 Outs
Intrax 2" Springs, Spohn Panhard, LCA's
17x8 Sabers

 

it's not pressed on the bolts. but you will need a ball joint separator(looks like a tuning fork) to separate from the center link.

 

oh, this may be stupid, but where ca I get one?