Front end-rebuild suspension...HELP...
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 452
Likes: 0
From: Norwalk, CA
Car: 1983 Z-28
Engine: 5.7 L
Transmission: T-5
Front end-rebuild suspension...HELP...
so so i wana rebuild/replace my front end suspension...
this is what i wana buy:
idler arm
lower ball joints
inner tie rods
outer tie rods
tie rode sleeves
center link
i wana buy sumthing good for a daily driver...can i buy everything i will need at autozone or o'reilly?...
what brand is good?...
i just want sumthing good for my daily driver...
r the autozone and o'reilly brands good or r they ok?...
let me know plz thanks...
this is what i wana buy:
idler arm
lower ball joints
inner tie rods
outer tie rods
tie rode sleeves
center link
i wana buy sumthing good for a daily driver...can i buy everything i will need at autozone or o'reilly?...
what brand is good?...
i just want sumthing good for my daily driver...
r the autozone and o'reilly brands good or r they ok?...
let me know plz thanks...
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Front end-rebuild suspension...HELP...
EDIT: Here's a link to the codes:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...unt-codes.html
JamesC
Last edited by JamesC; Dec 20, 2010 at 09:11 AM.
Re: Front end-rebuild suspension...HELP...
Here is a good choice for your front end from Spohn. Used this kit + ball joints and everything went together wilh no poblems.
Last edited by DJP87Z28; Jan 16, 2011 at 08:10 AM.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Front end-rebuild suspension...HELP...
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Re: Front end-rebuild suspension...HELP...
The standard stuff from the local shop will be fine. You can get Moog from O'Reillys if you want to spend a little more. Some tips:
Make sure the grease fittings are in the correct places: bottom for outer and outside edge for inner. I've seen them mixed up before (although the threads were right).
Clean the parts good and hit them with some paint before installing them. Otherwise they'll be looking like your old, rusty stuff by Summer.
Take the center link and tie rods out as a unit. Measure end to end and re-assemble to the same length. You should be able to get it close enough to get to the alignment shop without too much trouble.
Re-install the new Idler Arm at the same height as the Pitman Arm (measure from a common point on the frame to the centerlink attachments). You can score the position of the old Idler Arm but that's no guarantee it was installed correctly.
You don't have to take out your springs to replace the ball joints. No need to remove the spindle from the strut either. After disconnecting the spindle from the ball joint just zip out the strut mounting bolt and finagle the strut and spindle out of the way. MAKE SURE your A-Arm is well supported.
All of the special tools you may need are available at the autoparts stores: AZ, Advance, ETC.
Let your new BJs sit in the freezer overnight. Use a little lube on them before trying to install.
Make sure the grease fittings are in the correct places: bottom for outer and outside edge for inner. I've seen them mixed up before (although the threads were right).
Clean the parts good and hit them with some paint before installing them. Otherwise they'll be looking like your old, rusty stuff by Summer.
Take the center link and tie rods out as a unit. Measure end to end and re-assemble to the same length. You should be able to get it close enough to get to the alignment shop without too much trouble.
Re-install the new Idler Arm at the same height as the Pitman Arm (measure from a common point on the frame to the centerlink attachments). You can score the position of the old Idler Arm but that's no guarantee it was installed correctly.
You don't have to take out your springs to replace the ball joints. No need to remove the spindle from the strut either. After disconnecting the spindle from the ball joint just zip out the strut mounting bolt and finagle the strut and spindle out of the way. MAKE SURE your A-Arm is well supported.
All of the special tools you may need are available at the autoparts stores: AZ, Advance, ETC.
Let your new BJs sit in the freezer overnight. Use a little lube on them before trying to install.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 452
Likes: 0
From: Norwalk, CA
Car: 1983 Z-28
Engine: 5.7 L
Transmission: T-5
Re: Front end-rebuild suspension...HELP...
Yes, but you might try RockAuto (There's a thread with discount codes on the board). Moog is a good brand.
EDIT: Here's a link to the codes:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...unt-codes.html
JamesC
EDIT: Here's a link to the codes:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...unt-codes.html
JamesC
... Last edited by JamesC; Dec 20, 2010 at 09:11 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 452
Likes: 0
From: Norwalk, CA
Car: 1983 Z-28
Engine: 5.7 L
Transmission: T-5
Re: Front end-rebuild suspension...HELP...
The standard stuff from the local shop will be fine. You can get Moog from O'Reillys if you want to spend a little more. Some tips:
Make sure the grease fittings are in the correct places: bottom for outer and outside edge for inner. I've seen them mixed up before (although the threads were right).
Clean the parts good and hit them with some paint before installing them. Otherwise they'll be looking like your old, rusty stuff by Summer.
Take the center link and tie rods out as a unit. Measure end to end and re-assemble to the same length. You should be able to get it close enough to get to the alignment shop without too much trouble.
Re-install the new Idler Arm at the same height as the Pitman Arm (measure from a common point on the frame to the centerlink attachments). You can score the position of the old Idler Arm but that's no guarantee it was installed correctly.
You don't have to take out your springs to replace the ball joints. No need to remove the spindle from the strut either. After disconnecting the spindle from the ball joint just zip out the strut mounting bolt and finagle the strut and spindle out of the way. MAKE SURE your A-Arm is well supported.
All of the special tools you may need are available at the autoparts stores: AZ, Advance, ETC.
Let your new BJs sit in the freezer overnight. Use a little lube on them before trying to install.
Make sure the grease fittings are in the correct places: bottom for outer and outside edge for inner. I've seen them mixed up before (although the threads were right).
Clean the parts good and hit them with some paint before installing them. Otherwise they'll be looking like your old, rusty stuff by Summer.
Take the center link and tie rods out as a unit. Measure end to end and re-assemble to the same length. You should be able to get it close enough to get to the alignment shop without too much trouble.
Re-install the new Idler Arm at the same height as the Pitman Arm (measure from a common point on the frame to the centerlink attachments). You can score the position of the old Idler Arm but that's no guarantee it was installed correctly.
You don't have to take out your springs to replace the ball joints. No need to remove the spindle from the strut either. After disconnecting the spindle from the ball joint just zip out the strut mounting bolt and finagle the strut and spindle out of the way. MAKE SURE your A-Arm is well supported.
All of the special tools you may need are available at the autoparts stores: AZ, Advance, ETC.
Let your new BJs sit in the freezer overnight. Use a little lube on them before trying to install.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 452
Likes: 0
From: Norwalk, CA
Car: 1983 Z-28
Engine: 5.7 L
Transmission: T-5
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Re: Front end-rebuild suspension...HELP...
My personal favorite is Eastwood's Detail Grey. Bonds good to metal and gives it that 'just cast' look. If I'm worried about it sticking I'll use a self-etching primer, if there is any rust I'll coat with POR15 prior to top coating.
From the parts store I'd use a self-etching primer followed by your choice of top coat in a can. Rustoleum would be fine.
From the parts store I'd use a self-etching primer followed by your choice of top coat in a can. Rustoleum would be fine.
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis, MN
Car: currently a 91 G92.
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: Borg Warner WC 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Front end-rebuild suspension...HELP...
I used Moog from Rockauto. If you want as little down time as possible, do like I did and go to a junkyard and grab a set of control arms from another thirdgen. You can rebuild those at your leisure, then you just swap on the new parts when you are ready.
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis, MN
Car: currently a 91 G92.
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: Borg Warner WC 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Front end-rebuild suspension...HELP...
Re: Front end-rebuild suspension...HELP...
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
Likes: 0
From: montreal-canada
Car: 1985 camaro Z/28
Engine: 305 V/8 4bbl carb
Transmission: T5 WC
Axle/Gears: 3-23 posi with 4 wheel discs
Re: Front end-rebuild suspension...HELP...
[QUOTE=mooch1;4771096]that kit looks good...where can i get this exact kit?...how much...thanks.[/QUOTE
Looks like SPOHN dose not offer that complete kit anymore..Too bad it was a good buy. You can try buying by the part or check Hawks Kit.
Looks like SPOHN dose not offer that complete kit anymore..Too bad it was a good buy. You can try buying by the part or check Hawks Kit.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Re: Front end-rebuild suspension...HELP...
You can get the center link, four tie-rods and the adjuster sleeves for around $120. Double that if you 'need' Moog. Ball joints can be done now or later. Swapping them out won't require a re-alignment.
I'd recommend against swapping the control arms out unless you're intent on replacing the bushings. Re-installing the coil springs can be a pain and there's NO WAY I would do it without replacing the 20+ year old coil springs with new ones.
I'd buy the pieces you need at your favorite parts store. If your local AZ has the rewards program you could buy the pieces in $20 increments and have near a $20 credit when you're through. Get the tools you need there too.
Don't forget the grease and grease gun if you don't have one. You'll want to lube everything til the grease comes through, then hit them at regular intervals.
Random pic of my daughter's 84:
I'd recommend against swapping the control arms out unless you're intent on replacing the bushings. Re-installing the coil springs can be a pain and there's NO WAY I would do it without replacing the 20+ year old coil springs with new ones.
I'd buy the pieces you need at your favorite parts store. If your local AZ has the rewards program you could buy the pieces in $20 increments and have near a $20 credit when you're through. Get the tools you need there too.
Don't forget the grease and grease gun if you don't have one. You'll want to lube everything til the grease comes through, then hit them at regular intervals.
Random pic of my daughter's 84:
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 4,211
Likes: 3
From: GO PACK GO
Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Re: Front end-rebuild suspension...HELP...
Random pic of my daughter's 84:
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1Aauto
Sponsored Vendors
0
Aug 26, 2015 02:18 PM
ProtoMaster22
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
1
Aug 26, 2015 07:50 AM









