Ok, heres the question:

ET Streets!
I want to put them on my cutlass and take it to the street races, 20 miles away. During the night we willtravel about 100 miles on the highway at speeds around 100 mph. I want to yank the fronts agains some "bad *** " import. Are the ET streets gonna fly apart and kill me?

If so, Is there anything I could put on there to give me enough bite?

What kind of suspension mods does it take to do a wheel stand in a 3400lb 500 hp car? I will be producing 400+ ft# from 3500-6000 rpms. I have 3.42 gears, and a 2400 rpm converter. Do I have a chance? I think it would scare the **** out of low riding hondas.

 

no way your going to do a wheelie on the street unless it has some unreal bite suspention mods and at least 500 ft lbs of torque. et streets will be way overkill for your setup and by all means do NOT use slicks on the highway! they clearly state that everywhere on the tires and there info. go with some drag radials if you want to do that, also with a power band starting at 3,500 your going to need a 10" 3,200-3,500 stall and 3.90-4.10 gears, im going to guess its a 350 as the torque would be ALOT higher on a 455.

[This message has been edited by TempesT68 (edited December 06, 2001).]

 

Dang. Yeah it's a 350, and some of the tracks have a lot of bite... as for the powerband, heres how the computer predicts it to perform.

RPM Power Torque
2000 134 351
2500 179 376
3000 227 397
3500 278 417
4000 330 433
4500 381 445
5000 423 444
5500 448 428
6000 462 404
6500 457 369
7000 436 327
7500 413 289

I honestly do not know how to choose gears, stall, anything. How would I determine a shift point? Do I really need such radical gears? I don't know about running a 10 inch converter on the street. I want this to drive like it does now, just with more punch. 350 ft# of torque isn't enough to use a 2400 rpm converter? hell, stock this engine only make 210 horsepower and 235 ft# at peak. I just don't want to make this thing unrealistic to drive.

 

and yeah, I know that the desktop dyno isn't very accurate...

 

I would definately drive to the races on street tires and switch at the track. Your cutlass probably has a huge trunk to put those slicks in right?

On the highway, you'll notice the back end squirming around when you turn on those wrinklewall slicks. Not recommended, especially cruising at 100 mph!!

 

your going to have to step down that cam big time, also if its a origanal 2bbl engine (95% most likely) it will have the junk heads that cant flow anything in the first place. all you can do is go milder or get a 455, that can make all the off the bat big power and still keep it so you can drive, right now its a more race only setup your playing with.

 

i can't really change at the track, the cops chase us around. I'd be dead. How is this a race setup? the cam is smaller than the lunati bracket master cam my dad put in his 330 and the 330 runs around town like a champ. The heads are No 7 casting, which is supposed to be decent, and they will take very large valves. I have heard 7's can be ported to support 500 hp.

 

Why dont you goto a REAL track when you can get an ET and MPH. Plus, are you sure you want to risk losing your investment by either wrecking or hitting people, or being arrested for driving at over 100 mph?

 

well you **can** run the cam, but it will not be optimal for power, unless you run 5 casting heads, big valves, ported to flow like hell, eagle rods, forged pistons and spin it to the moon like your talking, THEN you will make alot of power. its up to you if you want to have a very miss-matched engine or do it the right way.