sagging doors and SFCs
#1
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Car: 1982 SC/1984 Z28
Engine: 305 4BBL/305 4BBL H.O.
Transmission: 700R4/700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 Posi/3.73 10 Bolt
sagging doors and SFCs
Do i need to wait until my doors fit properly before i install subframe connectors? My doors are in SERIOUS need of hinges.
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Car: 1992 Rs
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Re: sagging doors and SFCs
I would personally get the doors done first, because of the fact that they are structurally part of the car. I am in the same dilemma right now, my driver door sags bad, and I need to replace the bushing/ pin, but am ready to get sfc's installed also
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Car: Base 91 'bird
Engine: 3.1 v6
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.27 & PBR
Re: sagging doors and SFCs
I would have thought the other way around. Get the SFCs done which stiffens the body and adjust the doors to suit. Attaching the SFCs could maybe (?) realign the body and throw out the door alignment.
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: sagging doors and SFCs
DO the doors look ok when they are closed???
body gaps around the door look right???
If so the body isn't sagging yet, so you could do either.
But id do SFC first.
body gaps around the door look right???
If so the body isn't sagging yet, so you could do either.
But id do SFC first.
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Re: sagging doors and SFCs
My doors sagged before.. But I installed two sets of SFC's and then put in new pins and adjusted the doors afterwards. The body isn't supposed to sag unless you put the car on a lift in which the body is under immense stress! (with two SFC's, there is no chassis flex though).
#7
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Car: 1982 SC/1984 Z28
Engine: 305 4BBL/305 4BBL H.O.
Transmission: 700R4/700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 Posi/3.73 10 Bolt
Re: sagging doors and SFCs
No, the gaps are NOT good. Not even close. It looks like my driver's side hinge pin is going to explode it's so worn out.
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#8
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: sagging doors and SFCs
If not did osmeone adjust them for the sag once, or is the body its self sagging, which means you need SFC first n fore most.
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: sagging doors and SFCs
Its really amazing, once I got mine on it was neat how now when you jack the car, front or rear, even just a little, that whole side of the car comes off the ground now. Though my chassis or body was in good shape.
scary how much they flex
scary how much they flex
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Car: 1982 SC/1984 Z28
Engine: 305 4BBL/305 4BBL H.O.
Transmission: 700R4/700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 Posi/3.73 10 Bolt
Re: sagging doors and SFCs
I don't think it's been adjusted. I would imagine that the hinges have been there since 1982. Seriously, The driver's side looks like it could snap off at any time.
#12
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Re: sagging doors and SFCs
My iroc was in great shape when i bought it! No rust whatsoever except on a few little spots which was only surface rust (except for the rear diff which was completely rusted, but that's normal). It still flexed quite a bit but not as much as the other one.. and i had trouble opening the doors while the car was on the lift, it was literally scraping the rockers!! After one set of MAC sfcs (inner style) the flexing was nearly gone and I wasn't scared to lift the car.. Then I installed a 2nd set of SFC's (spohn perimeter type SFC's) and now there's literally ZERO flex when I put it on the lift!
So to answer previous questions, my recommendation is to put in the SFC's while the car is NOT jacked up (cuz then you will weld them in while the car is being flexed which is a big NO NO!) and resting in it's natural position on the tires, and weld them in like that. Also, bolt on SFC's aren't recommended because the bolts will loosen over time (unless you weld them on after bolting them in).
If you re-do the doors, do lower pin and bushing and upper bushings as well! They are very important! I did not need to change the hinges on mine as they were fine.
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Car: 1982 SC/1984 Z28
Engine: 305 4BBL/305 4BBL H.O.
Transmission: 700R4/700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 Posi/3.73 10 Bolt
Re: sagging doors and SFCs
The doors that are on it are going away completely anyhow. There's rust along the bottom of each of the doors and the hinges are just shot. There was someone at a parts store here that offered me a pair of doors off an 85 Berlinetta for $50/pair. I jumped on it. They have NO RUST, but they're electric. I'm changing them over to Manual......... Yes, you read that correctly. i don't want electric windows.
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: sagging doors and SFCs
So to answer previous questions, my recommendation is to put in the SFC's while the car is NOT jacked up (cuz then you will weld them in while the car is being flexed which is a big NO NO!) and resting in it's natural position on the tires, and weld them in like that. Also, bolt on SFC's aren't recommended because the bolts will loosen over time (unless you weld them on after bolting them in).
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