Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

sagging doors and SFCs

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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 11:19 PM
  #1  
383 Power's Avatar
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From: Shreveport, LA
Car: 1982 SC/1984 Z28
Engine: 305 4BBL/305 4BBL H.O.
Transmission: 700R4/700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 Posi/3.73 10 Bolt
sagging doors and SFCs

Do i need to wait until my doors fit properly before i install subframe connectors? My doors are in SERIOUS need of hinges.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 10:26 PM
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From: Houston TX
Car: 1992 Rs
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Re: sagging doors and SFCs

I would personally get the doors done first, because of the fact that they are structurally part of the car. I am in the same dilemma right now, my driver door sags bad, and I need to replace the bushing/ pin, but am ready to get sfc's installed also
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 11:35 AM
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Base91's Avatar
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From: Georgetown TX
Car: Base 91 'bird
Engine: 3.1 v6
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.27 & PBR
Re: sagging doors and SFCs

I would have thought the other way around. Get the SFCs done which stiffens the body and adjust the doors to suit. Attaching the SFCs could maybe (?) realign the body and throw out the door alignment.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 01:49 PM
  #4  
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Re: sagging doors and SFCs

Get the SFCs installed on a chassis lift so that the car is squared up, then adjust the doors to suit.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 03:28 PM
  #5  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: sagging doors and SFCs

DO the doors look ok when they are closed???

body gaps around the door look right???

If so the body isn't sagging yet, so you could do either.

But id do SFC first.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 05:06 PM
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From: Montreal, Canada
Car: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z28
Engine: TPI 310ci (LB9)
Transmission: Custom Rebuilt 700R4 - 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.73 Eaton Limited-Slip
Re: sagging doors and SFCs

My doors sagged before.. But I installed two sets of SFC's and then put in new pins and adjusted the doors afterwards. The body isn't supposed to sag unless you put the car on a lift in which the body is under immense stress! (with two SFC's, there is no chassis flex though).
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 05:18 PM
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383 Power's Avatar
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From: Shreveport, LA
Car: 1982 SC/1984 Z28
Engine: 305 4BBL/305 4BBL H.O.
Transmission: 700R4/700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 Posi/3.73 10 Bolt
Re: sagging doors and SFCs

Originally Posted by Gumby
DO the doors look ok when they are closed???

body gaps around the door look right???

If so the body isn't sagging yet, so you could do either.

But id do SFC first.
No, the gaps are NOT good. Not even close. It looks like my driver's side hinge pin is going to explode it's so worn out.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 05:36 PM
  #8  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: sagging doors and SFCs

Originally Posted by 383 Power
No, the gaps are NOT good. Not even close. It looks like my driver's side hinge pin is going to explode it's so worn out.
Most look fine once shut, they just sag when open.

If not did osmeone adjust them for the sag once, or is the body its self sagging, which means you need SFC first n fore most.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 05:39 PM
  #9  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: sagging doors and SFCs

Originally Posted by hellz_wings
(with two SFC's, there is no chassis flex though).
Its really amazing, once I got mine on it was neat how now when you jack the car, front or rear, even just a little, that whole side of the car comes off the ground now. Though my chassis or body was in good shape.

scary how much they flex
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 05:40 PM
  #10  
383 Power's Avatar
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From: Shreveport, LA
Car: 1982 SC/1984 Z28
Engine: 305 4BBL/305 4BBL H.O.
Transmission: 700R4/700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 Posi/3.73 10 Bolt
Re: sagging doors and SFCs

I don't think it's been adjusted. I would imagine that the hinges have been there since 1982. Seriously, The driver's side looks like it could snap off at any time.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 05:43 PM
  #11  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: sagging doors and SFCs

Originally Posted by 383 Power
I don't think it's been adjusted. I would imagine that the hinges have been there since 1982. Seriously, The driver's side looks like it could snap off at any time.
So odd how so many end up like that yet some don't, mine are still great.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:44 AM
  #12  
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From: Montreal, Canada
Car: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z28
Engine: TPI 310ci (LB9)
Transmission: Custom Rebuilt 700R4 - 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.73 Eaton Limited-Slip
Re: sagging doors and SFCs

Originally Posted by Gumby
Its really amazing, once I got mine on it was neat how now when you jack the car, front or rear, even just a little, that whole side of the car comes off the ground now. Though my chassis or body was in good shape.

scary how much they flex
As was mine! I almost bought this camaro once for like 2k.. Was an 86 berlinetta (back when I didn't know anything about these cars). As it was going up on the lift I could have sworn the car was about to split in half!!! lol.. The thing was rusted beyond repair, rotting in some guy's driveway! We checked it out and found that parts of the frame were gone.. It was just a mess we put it down and I'm glad it didn't rip in half lol..

My iroc was in great shape when i bought it! No rust whatsoever except on a few little spots which was only surface rust (except for the rear diff which was completely rusted, but that's normal). It still flexed quite a bit but not as much as the other one.. and i had trouble opening the doors while the car was on the lift, it was literally scraping the rockers!! After one set of MAC sfcs (inner style) the flexing was nearly gone and I wasn't scared to lift the car.. Then I installed a 2nd set of SFC's (spohn perimeter type SFC's) and now there's literally ZERO flex when I put it on the lift!

So to answer previous questions, my recommendation is to put in the SFC's while the car is NOT jacked up (cuz then you will weld them in while the car is being flexed which is a big NO NO!) and resting in it's natural position on the tires, and weld them in like that. Also, bolt on SFC's aren't recommended because the bolts will loosen over time (unless you weld them on after bolting them in).

If you re-do the doors, do lower pin and bushing and upper bushings as well! They are very important! I did not need to change the hinges on mine as they were fine.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 10:42 AM
  #13  
383 Power's Avatar
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From: Shreveport, LA
Car: 1982 SC/1984 Z28
Engine: 305 4BBL/305 4BBL H.O.
Transmission: 700R4/700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 Posi/3.73 10 Bolt
Re: sagging doors and SFCs

The doors that are on it are going away completely anyhow. There's rust along the bottom of each of the doors and the hinges are just shot. There was someone at a parts store here that offered me a pair of doors off an 85 Berlinetta for $50/pair. I jumped on it. They have NO RUST, but they're electric. I'm changing them over to Manual......... Yes, you read that correctly. i don't want electric windows.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 11:38 AM
  #14  
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From: Montreal, Canada
Car: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z28
Engine: TPI 310ci (LB9)
Transmission: Custom Rebuilt 700R4 - 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.73 Eaton Limited-Slip
Re: sagging doors and SFCs

well you will have lighter doors which is a plus! Take care of those doors and make sure to read all the door FAQs on here.. James C did a nice write up of how to fix em up really good.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 05:12 PM
  #15  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: sagging doors and SFCs

Originally Posted by hellz_wings

So to answer previous questions, my recommendation is to put in the SFC's while the car is NOT jacked up (cuz then you will weld them in while the car is being flexed which is a big NO NO!) and resting in it's natural position on the tires, and weld them in like that. Also, bolt on SFC's aren't recommended because the bolts will loosen over time (unless you weld them on after bolting them in).
Well you need it off the ground, but you get it in the air but sitting on its tires with like tire ramps.
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