I noticed there are not many pics of the AJE Racing K-member, A-arms, and Coil over kit. I just received mine in the mail and thought I would submit it to the greater TGO community.

Here is some info that may also be of use:
Mild Steel construction
0.120 wall tube
0.120 plate
Weight of K-Member 29 lbs
Weight of A-arms (both) 15.5 lbs
Grade 5 A-arm to K-member bolts with nylon self locking nuts
Metric grade 8.8 k-member to frame rail bolts

Road Racing Option:
Support mount for triangle frame rail braces
AJE in-house motor mounting system accepts SBC and LSX motors (Delrin bushings) (will not accept knock sensor)
Reenforced sway bar cross brace

 

More pics to follow

 

More pics

 

Coil over Kit and A-arms

I have a few more pics if anyone is interested, but I think this is sufficient.
I may make a solid model of this k-member for the purpose of performing an engineering FEA test on it.
If there are any design/drafting savvy members out there, you can send me sketches (with dimensions) and I will try to make a solid model of other k-members (with A-arms) out there. Who knows, we may actually be able to find weak and strong points on these products.

 

how much was your set up all together? does it save alot of weight on the front?

 

The cost (to front door) was $999. Hopefully I will be able to get the factory components off this weekend. Once that is done, I will post the weight differences. Jim (shop manager) was very helpfull in plannig my order and answering my questions.

 

Results of the weekend install:
The k-member went in without any problems. The A-arms needed to be "persuaded" into fitting.
Sorry these pics are mildly distorted. I cant quite seem to keep the proportion while compressing the pic

 

looks good, i bet its much lighter than stock.

 

Do the coil overs replace the stock main front springs or just supplement them?

 

They replace them entirely.

 

I just weighed the stock k-member w/ a-arms. They came in at 82 lbs.
Weight savings table to come soon.

 

very interested in the weight savings!

 

Could the swap be done with removing the engine etc.? It looks like the engine mounts could be unbolted and the engine supported from above then everything is done from below. ?????

 

I assume you mean swapping the k-member without removing the engine. Yes it is possible. BMR's instructions on thier k-member states how to perform the swap with the motor still in the car. For a visual representation see the link below. This site shows a picture of how they supported the motor when they installed the spohn k-member.
http://www.streetlegaltv.com/project...is-renovation/

 

Do u have a part number I went to site and came up with around 12-1300 before shipping unless prices have changed. I need a arms coilovers and BBC mounts (solid if possible)

 

Here are the part numbers provided by the invoice I received:
CF-30100 (Add RR Brace K-member) $429.00
CF-300 (Add RR Brace bushing style) $320.00
CV-3033 (Add Variable coilover kit) $250.00
Total $999.00

There was a fair amount of phone calls and email correspondence before we arrived at a price. Note: I purchased this set-up while the special was in effect. (That helped quite a bit.)

Call up AJE and ask for James "Jim" Morrow. He was very helpful in helping me design and price my setup.

 

anymore pics???

 

Pics added per request.
Updated pics on post # 7

 

I know several folks have been waiting for this post. So without further ado,
Here is the weight savings table!
(summary)
Road Race Option: -39.5 lbs. or 37%
Drag Race Option: -44.5 lbs. or 41%

All weights (with the exception of the stock k-member and a-arms) were taken from the Wii Ballance board. The Drag race weight loss was calculated by removing 24" of 1.5" OD tubing and 18" of 1" OD Tubing.

Also included are pics of the coil over test fit. (driver side)

 

Does the coil over kit fit a standard (or upgraded) strut or is anything special needed?

 

The kit fits the standard strut. The only thing you need to modify on a standard strut (like my Monroe struts) is to knock off the cap on top of the cylinder. See the BMR Coil over kit instructions for a pictorial reference. Basically you take a hammer and chisel and beat the tabs out. Also, the studs on the stock triangle piece are too short to hold all the plates together. I am going to purchase a bunch of new fasteners to hold these plates together.

 

are you satisfied with this k member?

 

I have been very satisfied with the k-member. Installation was a snap. There is a ton of space around the motor to access whatever I need. The header clearance is good (Hooker shorties with associated y pipe.) There are 2 issues the AJE guy and I are working on now. The motor sits a little too high in the engine bay. Nothing a Daytona hood wouldn't fix, however I do not like the look of the Daytona hood on a firebird. (It doesn't follow the lines right.) Secondly the the front end sits a little too high. We are working out exactly which spring will give us the right spring rate, ride height, and suspension travel.

 

Watch the welds on the k-member. My welds came apart.

 

that is the old design, i had one too. The new design has been flawless for at least 4 years now.

 

that is good that they fixed it. my kmember only had about 200miles on it when it happend.

 

I got the new engine mount pads that lower the engine about 1" (measured at the mount itself). This places the engine where it should be.

Sorry I had to ressurect this thread, but I figure if anyone is going to order this setup in the near future, they might want this piece of information.

 

What are they doing to combat the supposed problem with coilovers causing damage to the shock towers and fenders? I saw a post a couple years ago on here of a GTA that had the Spohn coilovers and it rippled the fenders and I think damaged the shock towers because of the new stresses that were put on them.

 

Would the k member and A arms be safe to daily drive?

 

I hope to find out soon

 

is that k member have a built in solid motor mounts?

 

With the way I requested the k-member, it does not have solid mounts. HOWEVER: The mounts are hard plastic with a steel sleeve (similar to a LCA or A-arm mount/bushing). One could easily machine an aluminum bushing (or request it form AJE) that fits where the hard plastic is.

Look at the far right pic in post #2 for a pictoral reference. Just replace the black plastic (temporary held in by the white tie-wrap) with an aluminum bushing. Then off you go.

 

Since I am not doing any front end lift-offs while drag racing or participating in any Knight Rider "turbo boost" reenactments, I am not worried about the assembly punching thru the strut tower. I read somewhere on the forum that folks have seam welded the entire strut tower. It seems to me that the majority of people are not concerned with this issue.

 

I just got my K-meber from AJE, where did you find the lowering Pads, that would help since I am running the HSR

 

M member looks good, where di you order it from

 

It apears that we orderd different motor mounting systems. If you look at the far left pic on post number 2 you will notice the following:
Your K-member uses the conventional SBC motor mounting pad.
My K-member uses the multi engine mounting geometry.
If I remember correctly, your pad recieves the factory (or moroso) style mounts. Mine uses AJE's mounts that can recieve SBC, BBC, and LS1.

That being said, AJE seems to do good fabricating work. Just give Jim a call, he should be able to accomidate you.

 

I ordered mine from AJE. They can also be purchased from Jegs or Summit.

 

Anyone else have an opinion on this? Was going to order weight jacks but this looks better. The camaro they're going on is a corner carver...ok with a strut tower brace?

 

I have spohn coilovers on my car and I've done 30,000 kms of street driving without any noticeable damage. However I also have a rust-free hardtop. I am planning on stitch welding the strut towers before I put it back on the road though.

I should add that the spohn coilovers limit the amount of possible camber adjustment, but other brands don't have this limitation because the mount the spring underneath instead of inside of the strut mounts.

 

anyone considering this modification on a thirdgen i would highly advise against it for anything other than a straight line drag/street car and/or trailer queen. The weight savings are minimal and the ride quality is substantially altered.

 

Hmm I have spohn coil-overs with stiff springs and Tokico struts and I find the handling quite well. It's definitely not a drag racing setup. Makes for a stiff ride but I like it personally and am not a fan of soft suspension.

 

was this after he put in in a ditch at 40mph?

 

I'm planning on stitch welding my strut towers but if I think your much more likely to have problems if your strut towers aren't 100% rust free. I think that's where any problems would be