d

 

do you guys do shipping over seas?? such as Sicily, FPO address?

 

We can ship anywhere is the World. Since it is an FPO address I think it would need to ship USPS mail. The only downfall is this item is over sized so for it to ship USPS is no problem at all but it would most likely need to ship partial post which is 2-4 week delivery.

If you would like a shipping quote please PM me your address.

Thanks!
Ryan

 

I received my K Memember today , looks great and plan on installing in the 5-6 days , just didn't see any install booklet with warranty or Instructions... did I just miss them

 

Should be in the bag with the bolts. Got mine yesterday.

 

Hey guys.

If you're missing instructions, PM me or email ramey@umiperformance.com.

If you have instructions and see anything you think could be clarified, let me know that as well.

Hope you like your k's! Thanks for choosing UMI.

ramey

 

received mine today also looks amazing will be awhile before mine gets installed because im doing a complete tear down. will be ordering more umi products in the future.

 

looks like I may be ordering, just blew my motor, so might as well as put a new a k member in it while I'm at it, if funds allow for it

 

Hello Everyone,

I have another update for you.

We have shipped or almost shipped all of the orders placed in 2011. The first batch of K-members is completed and shipped.

We had a few glitches along the way on the build process so our first batch was short compared to the # of orders we received, I apologize for this. Our next batch is in the works now and we will begin shipping the 2012 orders in a week.

I have some more pictures as well, installation pictures will be shortly as well... we haven't got a chance to install a brand new powder coated one yet to get some really good pictures. If anyone wants to follow our 3rd gen build that will be used for UMI product display please check out our Facebook page- http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...1448642&type=3

We also added a quick change and have built in a bump stop into the k-member.

Thanks again for the patience!

SBC/BBC/TPI K-member


LSX K-member


LSX K-member in black with adapter mounts bolted in place


Bolt in spring perch


Built in bump stop

 

Wow they look awesome!

What is your ETA for the road race version?

 

What does the bumpstop contact? It looks really high to me?

Edit........

Never mind, i get it now.

 

I should have explained it better but it looks like you figured it out. The bump stop on our a-arms is designed to hit it.

Hope that helps!
Ryan

 

just out of curiosity, would the bump stop of a stock arm hit it too?

does this mean that my k-member is happening sometime soon

 

installed mine today. pretty simple install if you have patience. i did drop a few "f" bombs when lining everything up the first time. want advice......use a cherry picker when shifting your engine around. i used a engine support and it didnt let me move the engine as i would of liked.

 

how is steering linkage clearance and crossover exhaust clearance?

 

clearance is good. i have full length headers so not sure on crossover exhaust

 

I wasn't aware of a road race version. Since mine hasn't shipped, I think I will call and see if I can upgrade to that version......

 

Am I imagining things or did the picture of the original version have two huge beefy bars with less plates and less welds in it?

 

the rear second main cross bar had some changes it seems, it had more rearward bend on the ends, but other than that, it looks the same as the original pre-production one.

 

Looks like the oil pan might hang lower than the cross bar. Can you confirm?

 

We are working on the RR version right now, I don't have an exact time frame but we are on it. So if someone wants to change it over we can but it will delay the shipment so please remember that. The cost difference is $80.00 more as well.

The production version is very similar to the proto-type, we did make some changes along the way but not a lot. We added a 4th motor mount hole and added a fancy pattern to the a-arm mounts. The center cross tubes in the first picture were both 1-1/2" x 0.095 tubing. When we installed the LS1 engine the rear tube hit the oil pan or was close... so we reduced the rear tube to 1-1/4" x 0.120" to gain a little clearance. Other than that the design is the same, just more fancy profiles to enhance the look.

I hope that helps,
Ryan

 

Raymond, thanks for the pictures and I am glad to see it fit well.

The motor mount bolts are a pain to line up, especially with solid mounts. We found it is best to attach the k-member to the engine first but leave all 8 motor mount bolts loose. This will then allow you to move the k-member to align the 6 mounting bolts up. For some reason the engine tends to bind pretty bad and is hard to move. Our first few installs were a pain as well but all dimensions were great.

Thanks again,
Ryan

 

I just stumbled across this tidbit of information. No where on your website is this mentioned.... I am canceling my k-member order because of it. I *just* spent $500 for a new compressor and lines so I can have ac. I am not ditching it now.

but really, that should be placed on your website under the lsx k-member description......

 

It will be listed as soon as we can. Also just to be clear this is for LS swap A/C.. not factory engine A/C.

The option you would have is to use the A/C compressor relocation kit from Kwik Performance. This would relocate the A/C up top and away from the k-member.

We were not able to modify our design to clear the factory LS1 A/C. The current k-members on the market that do clear the A/C are having terrible fitment issues. After a lot of research we found the relocation kit to be the best option. It keeps us from modifying our design and sacrificing the fitment of the k-member.

 

Ok the coil tops aren't marked which way to they go. Even looking at the pics above you posted the red one has them curving in and the black one has them curving out. Which is right?
Also on mine the drivers side coil top side sits fairly flush on both connecting points, the passenger side has a 5/8 gap at the frong connnecting point if it it flush on the back point (see attached pic)
Is this within tolerance or what am I supposed to do here?

 

its pretty easy to figure out. if you installed them facing in, then the springs would be facing in. you want the springs facing out. does this help?

 

i did install the engine to k member first. it was a pain because my engine was facing forward just enough that the bolts were 1/16" off. so i dropped a few f bombs and lifted the motor by hand while my brother pushed the bolts in. nothing like using american uscle to build american muscle

 

this pan sits higher than the bars, but my new pan sits a little lower if not even.

 

This is correct, you want the spring perches facing outward, so gussets towards the rear of the car and springs facing outward.

For the perches just tighten each side even, the perch will tighten up nice and tight against the k-member despite the gap. But tighten each bolt some and go to the other instead of one completely tight at one time.

Thanks,
Ryan

 

Subscribed! Ordered mine! Can't wait! Beautiful looking work.

 

Started intalling the Lsx version

The red dot is where I had to dent to clear hawks lsx headers with the stock k-member.


Oil pan

 

Man I really don't like the main hoop being higher than the oil pan.

 

it looks different in both pics, either way its close. you have to screw up BAD to bottom out the stock k-member, but that does not include road debris

 

Agreed, but the lower you go the more risk you take. I can just imagine taking a speed bump at a very sharp angle and smacking the pan on the bump. Unlikely, but it makes for a bad day. When I first lowered my car I did bunch of torture testing to see just how bad the ground clearance would be. I managed to scrape one of the sides of the Spohn k-memeber on the road. Granted the Spohn main hoop sits a lot lower. But no much lower than my oil pan. And I THINK the LS oil pan is shallower than your typical SBC pan. Correct me if I am wrong.

 

that i dont know

 

Wait, So the LSx kmember still uses adapters? Is there any difference in the two k-members or does the LSx version just come with the adapters?

Agreed.

I'm not so sure about that? I have hit my kmember on many things, many times. The two most common are crab walking gnarly speed bumps because of ride height and freeway debris. I realize it wouldn't be hard to build a small wedge looking skid deflector but at the same time a lower bar would accomplish the same thing, right? What would be the weight increase of raising the forward hoop a bit and running a third cross bar infront of the other two?

Either way, amazing looking piece and I'm ecstatic to see a company offering more things for our cars and on top of that being part of the community and listening to our bickering.

 

The good news is the PA racing and pro-fab kmember sits lower than the oil pan.

The bad news is the first pump you hit and you won't have that bar

My first trip out, I had the rack + pinion. A speed bump ripped the rack off!

I cut the rest of the rack mounts off and ran regular steering linkage. It rubbed. I sold the k-member for almost nothing on the forum.


-- Joe

 

I have been looking around for a while now if i was wanting to run a tubular k-member and I like how you guys are running the 2 bars up front, Right now the only thing stopping me from ordering one of these k memebers is the price and i have no idea what the duty and brokers fee will cost Being up here in canada I know the shipping is like 90 bucks but i Like to know the whole total up front. Im probley goin to wait when they go back on sale which I think was last month which I missed. But I will be ordering a k-member one day and also looking forward to what you guys come up with for a coil over kit.

 

Lol.

I have smacked my Spohn K-member a few times but only when i was "trying" to.

 

E-mail Lance at lance@umiperformance.com with a shipping address and part #'s and he will quote shipping options. We have UPS Landed Cost option which allows us to collect the taxes and brokerage up front at a some what discounted rate... it works good. Unfortunately these won't be on sale again for some time, the sale price was for the pre-orders. Thanks!

 

Thanks very much ill be send him a email later today.

 

A power, lightweight rack & pinion setup with the same turn ratio as the performance boxes would be a great add-on to this K-member. Just sayin

 

?

 

X2

I asked Ramey about this a while back and he said they were looking into steering options for the K-Member. Flaming River sells a Pinto 2 power rack with customizable throw (they claim well over 6" and 6" is the minimum throw we need to maintain stock turning) for $700, figure $150-$200 for the engine bay steering column portion, $100-$150 for rack mounts on the K-Member, and about $100 worth of plumbing for a power setup. This is a bit inflated, but I'd expect to pay $1000-$1200 for a quality power rack option that bolts right in with the K-Member.

 

The base k-member is the same for SBC and LSx.

There is a $70 difference to add the LSx engine mounts.

We did it this way to control production costs. We can build multiple k's without regards to what's on order.

ramey

 

SWEET!!! Gotta love lean manufacturing. If I ever wanted to do an LSx swap with you SBC K-member in place, this would be about the easiest LS swap to do. Just undo a few bolts & go.

 

Hello Everyone,

We finally got some nice installation pictures of the k-member and a-arms from our 85 Camaro project. I posted a few below and a lot more can be seen in the link below. Enjoy!

More Photo's of k-member installed HERE

 

That car's beautiful, great looking project! Following on facebook for more photos

 

I don't know why, but I just LOVE the reflection of the K-member in the chrome oil pan. I had to look at it three times to figure out exactly what was going on.

I must again compliment UMI on the interaction in the community. I have suggested UMI products to several people lately, mostly based on what I've seen here. As I continue my build, I'll be looking to you guys. The price of the K-member will certainly be smoothed slightly by the fact that I can run out and pick it up myself... I want to get out there and see the place sometime too!

One question- I'm not intending to *race* my car (I have a non-f-body road-race car), but I do participate in time trials and I instruct at a number of track days. The car wears the 275R16 Hoosiers when on track or competing at hillclimbs. Would you recommend the RR version when I reach the point of buying one?

 

I'm still waiting for mine, Ordered in February

Can't wait to get it, I also just ordered some UMI A-Arms and a used UMI Trans crossmember and torque arm. Can't wait to get everything together.