From observations on this board, it seems that this is the formula for 1.6x 60' times is:

450 ft. Lbs torque at the flywheel
Slicks at 12-15 psi
Non-stock lower control arms, usually with spherical bushings or poly bushings
Subframe connectors
Aftermarket adjustable torque arm at some optimized pinion angle found by trial and error
Pan hard bar

But what does it take to get a 1.5x 60 ft?

Most Sphon equipped cars it seems are getting 1.64's. What does it take to go 1.5s?

 

At least a 3000 stall and slicks...

Or with you being a t5, a good 4000 RPM launch and slicks.....


BUT, I'm not sure how much your T5 will like it

 

Your list looks pretty good. The other two pieces I'd recommend are relocation brackets on the lower control arms and a drag sway bar.

Do you have the items on your list installed or are you in the planning stages?

ramey

 

See my sig. Building a motor and looking for traction.

 

Your list looks pretty good. With the addition of the LCARBs and drag bar to the list you'd be on your way to achieving that goal.

We have a Christmas sale coming up and would be happy to put together a package to get you launching.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...=index&cPath=6

ramey

 

A simple fact to get low 60ft's, is horsepower management. Add all the bolt ons you want because without the power you will not get there.

 

350rwhp can get you there. will need the right converter though.

 

450rwhp can get down to the 1.39 range...

 

It's not just horsepower, I'm asking about planting the horsepower because even with stock motor, you can break traction launching the car

 

How did you set up your car to go 1.39?

 

I cut 1.59 NA and 1.50 on nitrous a few years back(when I had a 355 Superram with nitrous).

3200 stall, 3.73 gears in a 10 bolt and UMI SFC, STB, panhard bar, and control arms with some KYB shocks got me thre. As stated above call UMI, they will get you dialed in!

 

My old 89 had a N/A 388 with slicks 4.10 gears and 3000 sthall converter and best 60' was 1.52 launching at about it 2000 rpm roughly. That's stock suspension all around ttop car weighed 3600lb or more never actually weighed it but it was all stock. if u read my Sig motor made 416 HP and 486 tq

 

'95 cobra, ~3300lbs
310" n/a small block ford
.500" lift cam
trick flow 190 heads
2.5" dual exhaust
tko trans
4.56 gear
26x10 slicks

 

Mustangs are different than Camaro's

 

they are oddly similar to a thirdgen on the front suspension....

seriously, there is sooooooo many variables that need to be "right" on the car for it to have a good 60'. its not a matter of just bolting certain parts on the underside of the car, it also has to do with your engine's power, torque converter, transmission gearing, rear axle ratio, suspension settings/anti-squat, weight transfer..... i mean there is a ton of factors to consider.

 

There is a formula for 1.6x and it's what I gave plus whatever other people have included. Our cars have been around since 1982 and there is a large body of knowledge in our archives and it's scattered everywhere. You'd think that 20,000 members would have fugured it out by now. It's important because for about $50,000 you can buy a new car that does 12's with no mods.

 

my cam'd LS1 car hit 1.53's.
t56 trans w/ram 9000 clutch
12 bolt rearend w/4.30 gear
26x11.5x16 et streets on stock wheels
eibach pro springs
kyb shocks up front, stock in rear
jegster torque arm

the rest was stock. dumped clutch at 6000 rpms.

 

my gta gets 1.53-1.55's n/a. 1.30 with 150 shot.
stock shortblock LT1, 425rwhp
th400 w/9" nitrous converter
9" rear w/3.89 gear
275/60 goodyear drag radials
all suspension rod ended/chromoly stuff
koni shocks up front, afco's in rear

 

I've been 1.21-.23 with stock suspension on drag radials. There is nothing special or secretive with my rear suspension parts. Chromoly double adjustable LCA's, relocation brackets, stock location SA coilovers, spohn torque arm, 90/10 comp front struts.

 

You need to be more specific, are you trying to plant a stock radial on the race track or are you trying to plant a slick at the track for those times. There are plenty of people who have every bolt on traction device and still have issues. The key is finding the root cause of the cars laziness. It isn't always a "bolt on" fix. There are many contributors to a great 60 ft and every car is different even though they apprear to be the same. It took me adjusting one part many different times to find improvement then moving on to the next piece and the next piece and the next piece. I had wheel hop issues for years when I first had the car. I could never solve it with any bolt on piece. I added one transmission piece and it went away for good. I just had to find what my car liked and it's not footbraking.

 

Is it actually possible to post that time with stock like radial tires? I've never done it and I've always seen 1.6's with DOT slicks but never with street tires.

 

yes, it is possible, but will take the right combination to do so. maybe a soft hitting converter, 3.08 gear, and lots of weight transfer.

 

Old guys do it on bias ply tires..

http://www.fastraces.org/

 

I noticed Ur using the comp 99-10 front attire does Ur car ever see street use? And if so how does Ur car ride they advertise race use only which I kno is just a ad but wanna do research before I make a purchase

 

They have many miles on them and I couldn't tell the difference difference between the 70/30 or the 90/10's. I have event's that I need to drive 20-30 miles before I race and they work fine.