I have spent several hours over the last four days trying to install Eibach Springs part #3801-201 and the Umi A-Arms. The problem is the geometry of the spring and a-arm. No combination of the two internal spring compressors or the external worked. The springs install fine with stock a-arms. But the seat pocket on the UMI a-arms does not allow me to seat the spring and jack the a-arm up. Also tried hanging from the spindle, No luck. I am including some pictures of the closest I came to fitting. I am tired of fighting this beast. Contacted UMI and they told me that sometimes they have to compress the spring like a banana to fit. Did not have much luck with that on these Eibach springs. Are these springs to heavy? Any help or thoughs would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks, Chris

 

so you are saying that with that spring compressed as far as you have it, which is a LOT, you cant set the top of the spring into the k-member and just place the bottom in the a-arm pocket? What about the a-arm spring pocket is preventing you from doing this? Any pic of the install in that direction?

i cant tell whats going on in the first pic, but you can just lower the arm a little and pop the spring in?

 

i cant find that part number either, the part number for 3rd gen prokit springs is 3801-140 from what i can find.

 

I ran into the same problem almost exactly with the spring compressors. And I had no engine in the car. Something else is keeping us from getting these things in.

The .140 number is the number for the set of 4 springs from what I found. The fronts from what I've found are all labelled .201. As if its a part number for the front springs alone. Mine are also labelled .201, the geometry is the issue. If you figure out a way to get them in then go for it. And let me know. I think what UMI is saying is they compress it so the spring is curved. I've seen that done with a wedge of wood somewhere on one side, and the effect is that it compresses further on one side thus curving the spring.

My biggest problem is no weight up front. But my springs were compressed almost as far as you show yours, yet they still wouldn't go in. Either the A arm wouldn't reach the bolt holes before the car lifted, or the spring would hit the K member preventing it from completing pivot into the upper spring pocket. I know an OTC compressor has done the trick with several people, but I am not about to drop 200 bucks on a compressor when I could use that to get my rear calipers.

 

I've gone to coil overs. Still have my older (90s) Eibachs around, if you guys want to try them.

 

Curious to why in picture two you don't have the control arm bolt installed? Are you trying to install the coil spring with out both a-arm bolts installed? Sorry for the dumb question, just trying to get a better idea.

The spring install in these cars is a pain, it took us a few to get a good method.

 

Can you read the part number on there? I'm curious if they are the same number as ours or if it is different. It may be irrelevant but worth looking at. Also I know yours may have settled, but what is the spring height? I measured mine to be around 12.5 inches out of the box. I'm trying to figure out if either something changed, or if its the compressor and technique that we need to get down here.'

I'm thinking of getting the OTC compressor use it to get the springs in then return it getting my money back. Usually Amazon doesn't ask questions.

 

The spring number (#3801-201 ) is painted on the front springs. Also there is another number above that one that 251826. I have tried installing the bolts thru the a-arm and letting it hang free from the spindle/hub. Then tried to insert spring up into upper frame/seat. When i go to put the bottom of the spring into the UMI a-arm seat, the bottom coil goes thru the hole in the bottom of the UMI a-arm seat. So when I try to jack it up the spring is out in the middle of the a-arm seat because of the geometry/angle. I will try to get a photo to better show everyone! Thanks for all you input and help! It is driving me nuts.
I hope I explained this ok.

 

What if you unbolt the A-arm, install the spring in the upper pocket and then raise the A-arm straight up with a jack under the spring pocket and another jack to keep it stabilized. Raise it straight up slowly with both jacks until you can slide the A-arm bolts in.

I think the spring pocket in that A-arm might just be deep enough to provide sufficient lateral support to the spring so the A-arm doesn't move around too much as you raise it up. Find a way to secure the A-arm to the cup in the jack.

 

I tried that myself, the A arm slides towards the middle of the car when you jack on it, and being on the jack and compressed, its a real fight to get it to move back out. Especially when you are working on jackstands, may not be as bad on a lift when you can use a big f ing pry bar to move it. Its lining up the two holes on the A arm that make that way so hard. I almost go it with the A arm bolted in but ran into the same problem as the OP with the spring not clearing the K member. I think he may have found the same issue I have. Not trying to Hijack here, but I think he and I are having the same problem regardless of my car not having an engine.

 

That's exactly what I did to install my Spohn A-arms and Global West coils. Major PITA, but it worked.

 

I tried an idea and have come close to seating the Eibach springs
in the UMI a-arms. I made a plate to sit in the bottom of the Umi A-arm
pocket (seat). It covers the open hole that some models use for the internal
shock I think. I now have the a-arm up and the nut on the ball joint. The geometry
is still to great to get the spring in the seat. Here are some pictures.

 

Here is a picture of the same springs in the stock a-arm on the passenger side. It fits great. Dont understand why it wont go?

 

Tried that idea. I still lacked about an 1 inch before the bolts would get to the holes in the frame. The compressor threaded shaft was hitting the top seat keeping everything shy by an inch??? Thanks!

 

Bringing this one back from the dead as I'm stuck with the same situation and can't find much help searching.

I wrestled with these all weekend trying to get my Eibach springs seated using the UMI K-member and A arms. I also have my motor out while I was putting in the new K-member. Figured it would make things easier but damn, never would have thought the springs could be so frustrating.

At this point I'm debating purchasing the OTC spring compressor someone recommend. Unless anyone has some other ideas.

Thanks!

 

I just finished installing my UMI AArms and Eibach springs:

No amount of spring compressor would allow swinging the arm up. I tried it, even all the way to coil bind.

The ONLY way I found to do it was unbolt the aarms from the kmember, and leave the ball joint attatched. I set the spring in the aarm pocket, clocked correctly, and then jacked up on the back of the aarm to compress the spring.

Here is where it got tricky. The aarm wants to move toward the center of the car. By the time it was up far enough to bolt in, the aarm was about an inch too far from the kmember holes.

I took 2 feet of 2x4, stuck it against the kmember/frame somewhere, where it sticks out perpendicular to the car (straight out of the wheel well). I then put a ratchet-strap around the back of the aarm, and the front of the 2x4. As I cranked the ratched strap, it pulled the aarm back away from center toward the outside of the car. Once it was close, I used a punch to line up the holes and slip a bolt in.

It is a massive PITA.

 

I kind of tried doing what you just suggested minus using the ratchet strap. I felt like I could have got the holes lined up this way. However, another problem I had doing this was the car will lift before I can compress the spring/aarm up far enough. Did you have the engine still in the car?

 

Buy the correct tool. I did this with no engine in car

 

Buy the correct tool. I did this with no engine in car

 

Otc 7045B. It will bend the spring like a banana. I did this with stock Irocz springs which are taller than the eibach ones and stiffer. I have the UMI rr k member and the a arms. Did this with no engine in car as well. Best tool by far and safest. Dont go by the opinion here. Ive done it every which way and this was the easiest and safest by far. Absolutely no need ro remove the a arm to do this.

 

I wish I knew this existed before, it may have worked. The problem with the other tools was it compressed straight, and the eibach springs are so thick, there is no wiggle room in the Aarm cup, so no compressor tool i knew of would work.

 

Thanks for all the responses. The suggested spring compressor will be here tomorrow so I will tackle it again this weekend. Glad to hear that was the easiest way to make it work too. Well worth the price for peace of mind.

 

The stock front Iroc springs are no joke. Basically if you get them down to about, if I remember right 10.5 inches compressed,I may be wrong they go right in. They have to be bent at an angle. This is for stock iroc springs. The eibach ones are at least 1 inch shorter. Its all in how you position the plates to angle compress the springs. The bottom plate needs to be at a certain position so that when you swing up the a arm and bolt the shock top nut to hold a arm up, you let tension off tool and spiral the plates top and bottom right out of the spring. It may take a few set ups to position the plates correctly, but and its a big deal here, its 10x safer tool to use than any other I've used to do this. Its the correct tool. Ill never use that hook tool garbage again. Wish Ramey at UMI would at least list this tool as the suggested install tool for the job. Even better sell the dam thing on UMIs site. When you get it let us know we can help you through the process setting up the plates.


One more thing, and its a big one to get right as I found out the hard way. The UMI rr k member instruction are not clear about installing the top spring cups. When you are looking at the front of the car eye level with a arm , imagine a half circle from spring cup in a arm to top mouted spring perch. Those top mounts should be angled out towards tire,not in. When you angle bend the spring this is how it goes in.

 

Here is what I used.

 

I cut down the threaded rod. I then only used it on one side. I basically bent it like a banana to get it to fit. I had a jack underneath the control arm and slowly jacked it up. I was also installing Vogtland springs that I cut down so even a shorter than stock spring was difficult. I fought with these damn things for days. I thought I was never going to get it installed and almost orders coil overs. A little grease helps too but it can be messy.


The design is poor IMO, it should have some kind of hook or stop to help the spring into place. I invented a lot of swear words during the spring install.

 

You used the wrong tool. That tool from harbor freight is a spring to the jaw waiting to happen.7045b is the one you need. Stock iroc z front springs installed in a few hours.

 

I was unaware of that tool. I could only find cheap ones to rent or buy.

 

This needs to be a sticky. You could def kill yourself with a fully compressed spring if a cheap tool breaks.

 

I meant cheap in price compared to what you linked. I

 

That tool link is for compressing springs on a strut like a foreign car.

 

I'm curious how exactly you align the plates on the otc compressor to compress the spring like a banana? I've tried compressing it about 5 times in different alignments, but it always seems to compress evenly for me.

 

One side will always be higher than the other when positioned. When compressed the lower sides will always bend to that side. When two plates are aligned in that way it puts a slight bend in the spring. Put the a arm up to the point that you can connect the strut bolt to hold it up. Tape measure it. This is round about the compressed height that you will need the spring compressed to. It think its 9 1/2 or 10 inches. Its alot of setup on the plates to position them correctly. Once you find the right position it will work. Just alot easier and safer doing it over and over vs the hook tool.

 

I asked before but did you put the top spring mount plates in correctly?

 

Yes I did put the top spring mount plates in correctly, thanks for that tip too!

After playing around with the plates several times, I was able to find a combination that worked flawlessly using the OTC compressor.

If anyone has any doubts as to whether this tool is worth the investment, I can tell you the answer is most definitely YES. I speak from experience now!

 

Exactly my exp to a tee. Hardest part is putting the plates at the right spot so when you let out tension the plates dont bind and spiral out. Glad you finally got it done. Expensive tool but it is well worth it. That hook tool is garbage compared to this otc one by far. Awesome.