Originally Posted by BlackenedBird

Not unless you drive stupid. In 2 years of my bumpstops being cut out & running 7"bs 17"x11" rear wheels, I haven't bottomed anything out. Think ahead when driving & all will be just fine.

Originally Posted by made2drag

what setup do you have and any pics?

Originally Posted by BlackenedBird

17" x 11" ROH Snypers custom widened 2" for 9" wheels, to the inside, on a stock width 9-bolt.

No pics, but I did cut out the bumpstop & part of 1 layer around there pretty much identical to https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...od-17x11s.html ) but I did use Double Adjustable tubular LCAs with the the offset mounts from UMI http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=107 , plus cutting in the front & rear plus a good deal of BFH work

Put in a 4th gen rear end & then very little sheetmetal work is needed.

Originally Posted by BlackenedBird

Not unless you drive stupid. In 2 years of my bumpstops being cut out & running 7"bs 17"x11" rear wheels, I haven't bottomed anything out. Think ahead when driving & all will be just fine.

Originally Posted by SCCAjunkie

Issues:

Most lowering springs are NOT MUCH stiffer than stock for F-bodies. This is precisely why I cut my stock springs and sold my Eibach Sportlines. Sportlines will give you the drop and rate you're looking for, and put you on the bump stops just as often. Once you're on the stops, the ride becomes *significantly* stiffer...

Using extended balljoints corrects a problem. The A-arm going up from the inner to outer pivot actually creates handling issues. Granted, with what you're looking for, I doubt you'd be affected by them, so it probably isn't a big deal in your case (or in many others).

One other issue that's often overlooked- many shocks vary in damping rate by position. They "ride nicer" near the center of the stock suspension travel. If you lower the car, you'll probably perceive the ride to be stiffer because of increased damping.

You claim your car already "rides rough". This certainly won't help the situation. Stock spring rate on an 88 TA is supposedly somewhere around 600 lb/in if I recall. Look at what's available from Moog and go softer than that. I'd consider the MOOG-5032 if I were a gambling man...

The point is that no change you make to the suspension will give you a "stock ride" unless you leave it stock. If it were softly sprung at the lower height, you'll be at the lower end of the travel constantly, thus why the factory chose those dimensions and rates.

No one here is going to physically stop you from doing what you propose. If, however, you're looking for us to validate the idea, or moreso to encourage you, I think your time would better be spent on the car.

Also, what are you planning to do with the rear suspension to compensate?

Originally Posted by SCCAjunkie

I have a full coil off the front, and a half off the rear, I think. Honestly, I have no idea how much drop I have, as the front springs were already cut 1/2 coil (I think) when I got it, and the rears were different, mismatched springs. I'm going for the least-bad suspension angles, not a particular height.

What you can do is measure the distance between coils with the suspension loaded, and use that as a starting point for approximate drop (if there's 2" between coils when loaded, cutting 1 coil will give you *about* 2"). Keep in mind that there is a slight gain in spring rate when cutting due to the change in lever arm length, so you might not get the full drop you calculate. Also, other things can change dynamically, affecting the end ride height.

Remember that if you do make incremental cuts, you should "roll out" the suspension between measurements, so that you don't get a false height due to suspension bind.