I'm not convinced these do anything..

I used to have the SSM on my other thirdgen, and SSM is no longer in business for the better part of a decade. The SSM attached at the rear LCA point, followed the drip rail, and welded in where the frame goes outboard to the pinch point.

It got welded all the way down the drip rail, and it was TIGHT against the floor and was welded to the floor as well.


Fast forward, we have BMR now. They attach at the rear LCA point, but the front attaches to the frame just forward of the cross member. When flat and tight against the frame, it has a gap of 1/2 to 3/4" from the floor, and about an inch away from the drip rail.

Maybe I'm mistaken, but I don't see how this is doing much, infact the almost 90* bend of the connector to attach to the frame won't do much other than provide a greater degree of leverage should the body want to twist.

The only saving grace I can think of, is sticking a ton of shims in between the SFC and the floor, and welding it in random spots.

 

Perhaps some small pipe cut to length every 8 inches or so would attatch it. You could weld pipe pieces or drill holes and bolt it by welding nuts inside the frame rail.

 

Hmm, well I'm not sure if I understand your concern in how they don't do anything. Our subframe connectors do just that, they connect the subframes to each other with boxed steel. Its distance from the floor has no bearing on its strength or functionality, it's about attaching the two points to each other. Should the front subframe try to flex, it will be transferred into connector. It does not use the floor for leverage or functionality.

- Kevin

 

Well, if the front of the car wants to TWIST, i.e the right side go up the left side go down, these will not prevent that. After welding in place, I can twist these with almost no effort with a small bar.

The SSM design welded in farther forward.

The flaw in your design is that you don't tie in to the forward part of the frame next to the pinch bolt.

If you look at the attached image, of another MFG, you'll see they tie into the subframe where you do, but they also tie in forward, and they go along the drip rail.

By welding them into these multiple points you end up with a stronger more rigid assembly.

Like I said, I'll probably just add onto yours since I already paid for them and got them dirty.

-- Joe

 

In the picture you've posted, you'll find four small welding tabs. These tabs join the rocker seam to the subframe, have you welded these on yet?

 

You can see how these tie in with each other on the last photo in these instructions.

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/SFC008.pdf

 

My connectors didn't come with those tabs, or the bolts shown.

That isn't the largest area of concern. It's that they don't tie a few inches forward as seen in the picture.

-- Joe

 

Had alstons on mine, they attach at the very back of the frame rails just behind the transmission crossmember.

Car was no less stiff than cars with stuff that went up the perimeter.

I think you're putting too much faith in the floor pan/rocker area in comparison to the actual frame rails of the car.

 

Have you driven around yet? If so, how did you like them, any squeak reduction and do you think ground clearance would be an issue since they hang lower than you think they should? I'm about to purchase a set and your input would be appreciated!
Are yours the inside or outside SFC's?

 

No, I have not driven the car. I welded them in with the 240v mig, single pass.

They are lower than the drip rail, but that's not a concern. I bought the ones for non-stock exhaust since I'm running long tube headers with a mufflex pipe.

My concern is that, now installed and fully welded, I can push on the corner with my hand and twist the whole connector. I don't know that this is actually preventing any twisting of the body. Might prevent the body from stretching front to back, but it's not providing any rotational resistance.

I'm going to weld it to the drip rail, and add some more material and weld it to another few spots and see what happens.

-- Joe

 

Right in the instructions it states that welding them to the front and rear subframes is fine for a "light duty street car." It says if you want a track/handling setup, use the included spacers and weld it to the pinch rail as well. Maybe you got an older set, but mine included the spacers for the pinch rail. When I had them just welded to the subframes at first, I could see a small amount of flex between the connector and the floorboard when pushing up on them. I welded 2 of the spacers per side to the pinch rail after that and they are absolutely ROCK solid now. I may add a 3rd spacer per side for extra rigidity, but BMR said 2 would be plenty.

I have had no problems with BMR, and mainly bought these over other setups for the excellent exhaust clearance they offer on the pass side connector when running a stock style exhaust. Since my exhaust is 3.5", I needed the clearance. These fit absolutely perfect on my car and after welding them to the pinch rail, they feel awesome. Haven't driven the car yet, but I am 100% positive that it will be worlds stiffer than stock. Good luck.

 

i have bmr connectors and mines came wit those tabs.... i also have alstons connectors on the same car.... both made a HUGE difference....

 

I'm aware of the tabs. Which is fine, but my point is better designed (like SSM) ride against the drip rail, so all you need to do is weld along it, rather than adding tabs every foot or so.

Mine don't have exhaust clearance because I run the exhaust in the tunnel, by design.

-- Joe

 

How did these ever work out? I'm getting ready to order the BMR SFC's for my TES shorty headers and 3" cat back exhaust. I'm also ordering the BMR wonderbar and the strut connector that sits over the engine. Any feedback on these 3 items? Would a regular body shop be able to weld the SFC's on or do I need to find a specialist? Are these the best 3 items to start with to fix the stock F-Body frame?

 

I have not finished them, as in, fixed them.

I've had about 20 people at my shop since I installed these, and everyone says the same thing. Once they are fully welded in, you can grab the SFC and twist it up side down by hand.

I'm sure, as BMR stated, welding those little squares to the drip edge under the doors will help a little. (well, it will not allow you to flex it for sure), but I'm going to extend mine to tie into the front pinch point as well.

-- Joe

 

pics please !! I'm looking to get some sub-frame connectors for my son's GTA and would like to get some good pipeces.

 

The twisting is exaclty what I'm concerned about, see here and other SFC threads from these last days

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ston-sfcs.html

 

In all due respect, you guys make alot of very nice products. i have used many on my own cars.

These however the original poster is correct. They lack lateral function and are soely focused on fore and aft structure support. They do tie two points together and help lift the wheels by supporting the mid section of car in a longitudinal fashion, but they are in no means good for lateral chasiss twist in handling. They need to span up front and tie into the outer OEM subframe blocks under the firewall area to help reduce twist. By adding increment brakets so they attach under the rockers at points make them far better, but best would be to have them span all the way up to the front of the rockers insead of stoping 3/4" of the way. There are better designs out there that do a better job. I know this is bad for business, but this is a tech forum wherre we do not sugar coat answers for sales quota's. We look at facts and give honest answers. It would not be difficult at all for BMR to add to your jig and make the span longer with attachment poits leading to the front subframe points I have shown with green dots- just like the SFC units in the photo show (Not BMR SFC's in the photo)

 

I have these Global West SFC - they tie the bulkheads and the instructions were adamant on stitch welding along the rocker panel.
http://www.globalwest.net/82-02-fire...onnectors.html
Never had an exhaust prob, either - even with the dual cats from the L98. I don't know why they don't get more recognition when SFC's are mentioned. When I had them put in by a chassis/frame guy, they were almost the only choice - circa '95.

 

That's why we used them . Same with their steering box brace. I've never had any regret at purchasing both.

JamesC