Alright so on my thirdgen suspension wise I got Eibach Sportlines all around, IROC Sway bar, IROC Wonder Bar, KYB-GR2's all around. and as for the rear its all stock except the struts...what else can I do to make it stiffer...?aka for better cornering/handling..?I kinda want to stick with my KYB's for now..
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I'm not an expert on these things but I read I hear that adding subframe connectors and torque arms and things like that. It will stiffen up the body which in turn makes steering and control better.
I might be wrong but Thad what it seems
Also for better ride I would suggest koni shocks. I have only heard great things about them.
If you have lose steering there are suggestions I have seen on how to tighten it up for better steering control. You could also go with a new steering box.
There are tons of threads on how to do these things. Just do a quick search. That's what I do all day. Haha
Hope my advice was useful. If I am wrong about anything someone please correct me as I am new to this stuff too
I might be wrong but Thad what it seems
Also for better ride I would suggest koni shocks. I have only heard great things about them.
If you have lose steering there are suggestions I have seen on how to tighten it up for better steering control. You could also go with a new steering box.
There are tons of threads on how to do these things. Just do a quick search. That's what I do all day. Haha
Hope my advice was useful. If I am wrong about anything someone please correct me as I am new to this stuff too
sofakingdom
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Renew the front suspension soft (wear-out) parts; springs, struts, ball joints, steering linkage, sway bar rubber, etc.
Renew the front suspension soft (wear-out) parts; springs, struts, ball joints, steering linkage, sway bar rubber, etc.
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As some others have mentioned, the original bushings and such wear out over time - replace the sway bar bushings and endlinks with poly material ones - makes a difference for not much money.
One area of improvement is the rear suspension items - rear control arms and panhard rod especially. Both use sheet metal and rubber bushings, both of which were done for cost and comfort. My suggestion is to buy aftermarket RCA and a panhard rod from whatever company you prefer. It makes no sense to change the bushings on OEM parts when the materials they are made of is woefully inferior.
One area of improvement is the rear suspension items - rear control arms and panhard rod especially. Both use sheet metal and rubber bushings, both of which were done for cost and comfort. My suggestion is to buy aftermarket RCA and a panhard rod from whatever company you prefer. It makes no sense to change the bushings on OEM parts when the materials they are made of is woefully inferior.
Well this isn't the first or the 50th thread about this, so try searching.
Perfect thanks you guys it really helped me out.
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Weld in subframes should be 1st on these cars.
in the rear
adjst panhard bar with poly or rod ends if you dont mind noise
Rear control arms same
and get polly end links for your swaybars.
in the rear
adjst panhard bar with poly or rod ends if you dont mind noise
Rear control arms same
and get polly end links for your swaybars.
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Quote:
You said you wanted stiffer suspension, not quieter suspension Originally Posted by twizle2
Why get poly though? I hear they are rather noisy 
The one place people may prefer rubber is the torque arm bushing. That one tends to amplify drivetrain noise/vibration/harshness.
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Quote:
Poly can be quiet if lubed properly. Originally Posted by twizle2
Why get poly though? I hear they are rather noisy WS6 cars have been using poly end links since atleast 87 .. Someone know 4sure?
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I am not the original poster. I was just curious as to why Polly would better than rubber
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Originally Posted by twizle2
I am not the original poster. I was just curious as to why Polly would better than rubber Sorry lol, sometimes I read threads too quickly...
You'll see purpose built cars like drag cars and road racers using solid links like heims and spherical bearings in suspension joints, this is because they only allow the suspension to move only along the axis lines they were designed to move. This helps keep the handling and power application consistent, but it also transmits all the harshness into the chassis.
Poly is a compromise, stiffer than rubber for better performance, but not too harsh of a ride.
A lot of my car has poly bushings now, but over the typical 3rd gen rattles and my 383 with its exhaust dumping before the axle, I can't hear any added noise. The only time I notice the squeaking is when I'm jacking up a wheel or something.
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Fricken A, noisey. Wished I never went with poly bushing and stuck with the rubber. Car is a squeaky mess.Originally Posted by twizle2
Why get poly though? I hear they are rather noisy My issue is bounce. The car goes through shocks and struts like a kid in a candy store. I bottom out a lot.
But hey, I look fricken good doing it.
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Get better struts ansd shocks.
Proper lube keeps my poly bushings quiet.
Proper lube keeps my poly bushings quiet.
Quote:
My issue is bounce. The car goes through shocks and struts like a kid in a candy store. I bottom out a lot.
But hey, I look fricken good doing it.
Koni's go a pretty long time on lowered cars when driven hard. I'm sure they do wear out at some point, but I've never seen a post complaining about it, opposed to dozens of posts complaining about KYB's and the Napa/O'Reilly's/AZ off the shelf specials wearing out fast on low cars or with hard driving. On a stock height cruiser with decent roads, a set of Koni Yellows would probably go the life of the car.Originally Posted by Cadillac
Fricken A, noisey. Wished I never went with poly bushing and stuck with the rubber. Car is a squeaky mess.My issue is bounce. The car goes through shocks and struts like a kid in a candy store. I bottom out a lot.
But hey, I look fricken good doing it.
As for everyone complaining about noise with poly, like has been stated earlier, just a shot of whatever lube you use for the steering linkages during your yearly lube job will stop the squeaking.
Quote:
And if they don't they have a lifetime warranty. Can't beat the sale going on right now either.Originally Posted by midnightfirews6
...On a stock height cruiser with decent roads, a set of Koni Yellows would probably go the life of the car. Eibach's lower springs are way too soft for performance driving. I would cut your stock spring a little at a time and go back to them.
After putting in new strut mounts, poly bushings and other easy stuff, you can also drop in 1200lbx11x5" springs. They're just about perfect ride height with all the easy stuff pulled off the frontend, but they'll ride rough.
WS6 sway bars are probably an easier upgrade that won't kill you on rough roads.






