Quick question here guys.

Since we installed a Tokico lowering kit with new struts on my car the old worn strut mounts that are the factory 180k originals for all that I know are really on their way out.

The rubber bushing is completely split about halfway around on each mount.

Now, while I do plan to replace these in the very near future for obvious mechanical, safety and performance reasons with a set of founders or like mounts, I am in a very tight spot money wise ATM and need to ride them out as long as possible.

I was wondering what is the worst case scenario if the rubber surround completely let's go. I am primarily concerned about the strut rod shooting up from the mounting plate and damaging my fiberglass hood. Can this happen?

 

Yes, I've seen GM cars in the JY with the strut protruding through the hood.

RBob.

 

Gave them a routine checkup last night. Not as bad as I remember for some reason. They're split about a third around. Don't seem to be getting any worse but I'll certainly avoid major potholes in the meantime.

as soon as I find myself in the position to spend the money I'm getting the founders mounts. Until then I'll keep a close eye on my failing stockies. Thanks RBob.

 

I have, in that past, snagged a strut mount or two from the JY for some temporary relief (Nephew's car, Nephew had no money and I'd already put too much of mine into his ride). I really wouldn't go very far with them torn.

 

rockauto has mounts for like $50 a pair or something, I'm having them installed tomorrow. $50 has to be better than my 170k stock mounts.

 

$29.09 wholesale closeout on TRW strut mounts, with like $9 shipping. With the 5% off that would be near $65 to the door. Gotta love RA.

 

The right side is a little more at $44.79. Anyone have any experience with them, quality part?

 

Anyone have experience with the TRW or the Mevotech strut mounts listed on rockauto.com? How do they compare to KYB or Moog strut mounts?

 

Never seen the KYBs, but Moog and TRW are both made by Federal Mogul. I've used Mevotech and Monroe and could tell no difference one from the other.

 

I'm pretty much set on getting the founders mounts. I have put alot of money into the suspension on this car so I think another set of stock style rubber mounts would be a slap in the face to my wonderbar and STB.

I'm just holding on another month or two max before I buy them. I honestly think the rubber mounts were split before I just never noticed it.

Aside from the new engine being built, the only things left on the list for this car slated for 2013 are founders mounts, front end rebuild, power steering rebuild and restore the A/C.

Power steering I have everything except an aluminum pulley and A/C I have everything except a new condensor. Gonna be another fun year once I get back in the wrenching mood from my winter vacation.

 

I just purchased the TRW strut mounts and Mevotech steering linkage since the price was right, hopefully it works out.

 

I've heard the mevotech is like the economy brand of steering parts. Moog is the best for our cars.

 

economy they may be, but much better than 25 year old stock units

 

No doubt!

 

You'll be perfectly fine with Mevotech. I'm a hair picky on ball joints (MOOG) but the rest of it will provide dependable service as long as it's lubed regularly.

When replacing everything, disconnect the old tie rods from the spindles and the center link from the pitman arm and idler arm. Pull it out as a unit and assemble the new stuff to the same length. This should get it close enough for the ride to the alignment place.

A new idler arm should be installed to the same height, relative to the chassis, as the pitman arm. If you do the ball joints, freeze them overnight and use a little oil on install.

All of the tools can be 'rented' at one of the chain stores.

 

Have you heard anything about proforged balljoints?

The balljoints we just put in last september are already making noise and need to be replaced. They were the POS driveworks off the shelf ones from advance auto (Hey they free so I thought I'd try it!).

I just ordered the replacements from summit and read good things about proforged parts so I gave those a try. Haven't put them on the car yet.

 

I agree with your take on ball joints, I had a pair of Moog's pressed in by a local machine for relatively cheap.

That sounds like great advice for the linkage as I want to make sure everything goes in correctly.

 

Never heard of proforged but Moog ball joints area reasonably priced on rockauto.com at $19.51 each, plus there is a 5% off coupon floating around.

 

I got the proforged through summit for $30 each because I wanted to put it on my speed card along with a few other things (Black centercaps for wheel and door spring tool).

Nice car in sig BTW. I thought me and ronusmc were the only two members here who had the AR-23 wheel.

 

Thanx, got them many years back and have loved them ever since.

 

They're my favorite wheel on a thirdgen. I added some black lugnuts and a little wheelpaint to the triangles on mine.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...215_101426.jpg

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...215_161544.jpg

As soon as it stops snowing (Yes I am on the east coast and it is SNOWING in march ), I'm going out to put in the black centercaps.

Are yours 15x8 or 15x10? The fronts almost look deeper than mine but can't really tell.

 

That looks great, never thought of doing that. I know the rear's are wider than the fronts but can't remember what size.

 

Front on mine are 15x7 and rear is 15x8. Kind of wishing i had done 15x8 and 15x10 but didn't want to run into fitment issues plus the only good 15" tires I could have fit on a 15x8 front are the 235/50 toyo proxes R888 that cost $200 a piece.

http://toyotires.com/tire/pattern/pr...petition-tires

I wanted the 16" AR-23 but 16" has a very poor tire selection especially for drag radials.