RavageTheRoad

I replaced my end links about a week ago since one was broke and since the past two days i've developed an alarming front end issue. My steering wheel takes more effort to use and it almost feels like the end link bishings are binding at full lock. When driving straight the steering wheel "bounces" from left to right about a half inch either direction, and t about 35 mph it feels like the wheels are about to fly off the car until I give it gas and go faster. Any idea what could cause this? Wheels are on properly and I doubt its a shifted belt since I never had the problem before.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

End links don't "bind", and even if they could, they can't change the direction the wheels point; so no matter what's going on, it isn't that.

Pretty much HAS TO BE something that's turning as the car moves. Doesn't leave a lot of choices. "Did it before" or not, doesn't a whole lot matter; it's doing it NOW. See my signature for a tip in the use of logic.

Swap your tires front-to-rear; see if it quits.

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

Check the belts on the tires and tire pressure, as sofa said, if you swap tires front to rear and it quits then it is indeed a bad belt.

Jack up the front, grab the tires and try to wobble them. If anything moves, replace it.
Up and down= bearings or ball joints, side to side= generally idler arm and centerlink. Tie rod ends are less likely to be bad on thirdgens than the idler and centerlink but if you replace everything else you might as well do them too. Pitman arms are non wear items and don't need replaced.

Other things to check are your strut mounts, the frame rail around your steering box, and if everything up front is tight and in good shape, your alignment.

RavageTheRoad

I'm sofa king glad you commented on this haha, I've seen your posts and you give damn good advice. I can't switch the tires (275 out back, 225 up front from the dumbass PO). Everything looked ok up front when I checked while replacing the end links, I already shook down the tires and everything felt tight as well. I didn't check the idler arms since one was brand new when I bought it, but that's definitely the first place I'm going tomorrow, followed by the frame.

RavageTheRoad

Gave it a look today, everything seemed normal. Idler arms were tight, tie rods moved ok, I saw no apparent frame cracking. Shook the front end down, that felt good as well. I know my camber and probably toe is off as well, inside of my last passenger side tire was worn to the belt before I replaced it. Can alignment really cause wobbles that bad though? I've had a few cars come into the old place I worked with outrageously bad alignment and ever heard of anyone complaining about a wobble or their steering wheel bouncing around at low speeds.

RavageTheRoad

New development. Metal screeching sound coming from drivers side front when braking and turning at the same time, only does it at speeds as if turning into a parking lot or driveway. Definitely not from the brakes, I know what that sounds like and checked them just to be sure. Pads are nowhere near the squealer. This is really bugging me now, the car is my daily driver and I'm really hoping I'm not about to have a critical failure while driving. Definitely don't have the money to take it to the shop. Any more ideas to look for would be greatly appreciated.

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

Almost sounds like a ball joint. If you have a Firestone or Expert Tire near you they do free alignment checks and they should check the front end out for free. I had a vibration when my ball joints went bad and squealing is said to be a symptom. If you can't diagnose it yourself and the alignment tech doesn't find the issue I'd just have a total vehicle inspection done there or somewhere you trust. Hard to diagnose from over the internet but it sounds like you probably don't want to drive it until you know it's not dangerous.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

For the screeching sound, check 2 things:

1. Wheel bearings tight?

2. Inside of wheel rubbing on something; sway bar ends, tie rod ends, etc.?

SlickTrackGod

Bingo- Could be a balljoint that is so bad the A-arm is coming in contact with the rotor upon braking and turning forces

jermdm

The wobbling steering wheel and shaking in the front are all signs of a separated belt on one of the front tires. Jack up the front end so the wheels are off the ground and spin the tires by hand and look for bulges in the tire tread.

RavageTheRoad

99% sure it's the passenger side lower ball joint. I had some play up and down after I jacked it up correctly, hard to physically see if it was moving or not. I believe I have it narrowed down to ball joint or wheel bearing, so one last question To reiterate, I have a bad vibration, in the entire front end at speeds over 65-70. I also have a very pronounced steering wheel "bouncing" sensation, that does not vibrate the entire car, at speeds around 35 mph. No vibration or steering problems outside of those ranges. So would that sound like a worn ball joint or wheel bearing to you guys? And please don't say both!

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

Still sounds like a ball joint but you have to take the rotors off to R&R the ball joints anyway... the bearings ride inside the rotors and it's generally a good idea to repack them anyway, so if their condition is suspect it would definitely be worth it to just pick up new ones while you're at it. Make sure you get greaseable ball joints- MOOG Problem Solver joints are pretty highly regarded, replace and pack the bearings with quality ones and replace anything else worn you find while you're in the middle of it all with quality, greaseable lifetime guaranteed parts. Good luck!

Trevmust

wheel bearings make growling noises at speed.